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1 minute ago, cheesestraws said:

Well, I am an unreformed software person who has no spatial awareness at all, so if it helps I am likely to find it impressive by default if it holds what it's meant to and doesn't fall to bits ;-).

 

I always find it interesting when people mount their boards in unorthodox enclosures :-)

 

I think this should be a question for the thread more broadly; I have no idea.  I watch with admiration as people produce these things, but I have no idea where to start myself.

well they good thing is it willl allow any logic board using the same edge connector as the performa 630 with era exception that the logic boards requiring the 3.3 volt rail would need that wired up as mine is only wired for 5v, I believe some boards have 3.3v wired to one of the pins on the edge connector (forget what pin that was but its its trivial change) worth noting though that should someone want to print this they would need an original wiring harness to install into it. also the way it is designed it wouldn't be hard to for me to  remove the floppyEMU that I have installed and modify the front face plate. in fact one on the thing I wanted to do was to change all the buttons on the from to be more 'Mac' like, so for example the volume buttons are just circles but if I ever get back to this project I want to change their circles to look like the buttons used on a real Mac being a spare with a half circle on one edge ( hope that makes sense), and the floppyEMU buttons should be left and right triangle etc.
when I did all the printing I mainly was working on making sure things lined up and so forth so all those cosmetic changes haven't been done yet

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21 hours ago, Chopsticks said:

I have unplugged it from its 'place' below my se/30 so I'll do my best to upload some pictures of the internals either tomorrow or the next day, being that its on my main lab bench I won't forget lol.

What's the screen and buttons on the front?

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Just now, cheesestraws said:

What's the screen and buttons on the front?

its a FloppyEmu that replaces the floppy dive with an SD-card(theres a slot under the contact flash card for the scared), i picked one up from BMOW a few years back to use with my SE/30 but the one in this mac is just home made version as i found some pcbs gerber files online and got some boards manufactured. basically this mac has no moving parts except a Noctula fan as the 68040 is overclocked and theres a 486 Overdrive cpu in the dos card so it got a bit to toasty for my liking without a fan in there. it's pretty much silent though.

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1 hour ago, Chopsticks said:

but the one in this mac is just home made version as i found some pcbs gerber files online and got some boards manufactured

Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it.  I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.

 

1 hour ago, Chopsticks said:

basically this mac has no moving parts except a Noctula fan as the 68040 is overclocked and theres a 486 Overdrive cpu in the dos card so it got a bit to toasty for my liking without a fan in there. it's pretty much silent though.

Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. :-) that might be interesting

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23 minutes ago, cheesestraws said:

Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it.  I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.

 

Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. :-) that might be interesting

 

yeah its a great device, has made it pretty handy to have all my floppy OS installs as well as some driver discs and the odd floppy based software installs all in the one place, over the years ive found much of my floppy discs have worn out or got some form of data corruption/disc rot on them the ti dont have to worry about now, the hd20 mode has been handy too for transferring larger software to my se/30 too. it would be great to get a similar solution for CD based media that works in the same way

the only downside is my old Model A display is on the way out for the third time and i asked BMOW about retrofitting the the OLED display the models C uses as electronically it would work if but he told me thats its actually impossible with the model A hardware, and thats completely untrue, all thats needed is to change the code to allow the model A to use the oled code thats already in the firmware (he's locked it out using his boot loader that tells the firmware what board version it is running on..)
its disappointing but he won't be getting any more of my money in the future lol

as for the custom case thread i guess it depends on how many people are crazy enough to design and print an entire custom case, as not including all the trial fit parts and the changes made over time the final case parts for my custom case took probably about 150+ hours to print

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20 hours ago, cheesestraws said:

Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it.  I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.

 

Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. :-) that might be interesting

 hey Cheesestraws, sorry for the late reply to this, I know you were interested in seeing the innards and I only just got around to taking a few pictures, there's a lot of ribbon cables that obviously would need to be shortened should I get back to working on this but hopefully these pictures can give you a look at the innards. worth mentioning that the psu adaptor was just a bodged setup build on some perf-board to invert the signal of the psu on signal but if I ever revise this project obviously I would need to get a small pcbs made up to connect the pico atx psu to the make psu harness, regardless here's a few pictures and if you would like and taken of a specific area please let me know.

 

so far there hasn't been any apparent interest in me uploading these parts somewhere for others to print/modify but should that change or be of interest again anyone just let me know and I'd be happy too upload somewhere.

 

here's a few pictures regardless and sorry again that I took so long to upload themIMG_0318.thumb.jpg.8090a6965a75a4daba7be6355c0f915b.jpgIMG_0320.thumb.jpg.4dab0274ca1d37f20a9d38a85ca6c002.jpgIMG_0315.thumb.jpg.2bd4b96bb38d625db2ae5479684b5b09.jpgIMG_0319.thumb.jpg.f640cc2864f7e406c1fc9fad31bdcc26.jpg

IMG_0322.thumb.jpg.79624f762fd4dfad6d47b6fd1f391817.jpgIMG_0317.thumb.jpg.ce3c7da3601422e0a05eaad7545e8746.jpg,

IMG_0316.thumb.jpg.64b06fd191a1c179b5a49f103fe07de9.jpg

IMG_0321.thumb.jpg.8191c3034988176ff16021fb04656aec.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, Chopsticks said:

hey Cheesestraws, sorry for the late reply to this, I know you were interested in seeing the innards and I only just got around to taking a few pictures, there's a lot of ribbon cables that obviously would need to be shortened

 

Thankyou!  That's nifty.  I like how you've braced things against the front panel.  Ribbon cables—some people can make them neat, apparently.  I am not one of those people.  So you are in good company, at least.

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well I only had one cable harness so I didn't want to shote

30 minutes ago, cheesestraws said:

 

Thankyou!  That's nifty.  I like how you've braced things against the front panel.  Ribbon cables—some people can make them neat, apparently.  I am not one of those people.  So you are in good company, at least.

well I never wanted to shorten the cable harness during the design phase in case I changed things, I do honestly do want to get back to the design process and refine things and that would involve shortening most of those ribbon cables bit my workload Over the last 6-12 months studying mechanics engineering at university has majorly limited my free time to work on projects and when I have had free time other projects have kind of taken me away from this so there actually a tons of things I need to do, that I haven't had the free time to do (mechatronics is bloody hard both time wise and knowledge/study wise). like I have a bunch of projects outside of these classic Macs even that I have had the time to explore yet.

 

thank you thought for your kind worlds though, its very much appreciated, especially since im pretty new to the forums here and it means a lot to get some positive feedback... it really does so thanks again :)

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Forgive me if this is a simple question, but how do y'all measure the radius of curved edges/fillets for reproduction? I'm trying to figure out how feasible it would be for me to make a repro version of a PowerBook 1xx screen rear case, and with a good set of calipers seems like the toughest part would be measuring the radius of the curved edge fillets.

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2 hours ago, rplacd said:

Forgive me if this is a simple question, but how do y'all measure the radius of curved edges/fillets for reproduction?


I can tell you the way I did it with the Color Classic piece. I think there are specialized tools one could use, but since I don't have access, I have a fairly accurate method. I use precision measurement equipment (just good, metric rulers) and photograph them (with a lens that gives me the least amount of distortion) from multiple angles, to make sure I get it all. In some cases you could get away with a flatbed scanner. I then used a drawing program (I used illustrator, but one could use another solution, where you can place images and scale units until you're working 1:1
tuDFA7Z.jpg

pNFWcy7.jpg


In other parts, such as the curvature on the "facade" of the name plate, I measured the thickness in three spots with my calipers: edges and the center:
wav82oM.jpg?1
iFNUez2.png

I know that photo doesn't look it, but the "support" plastic backing behind the curved facade/fascia piece is flat on this "inner" side, so measuring the height was the surest way to get the curvature correctly.

 

These weren't all of the measurements I took, but this is a start. I go back and forth, from drawing, to reference piece, re-measure, and I went through a number of 3d meshes until I was satisfied with my end result. Obviously, even with the beta version linked above, I missed a couple of small things: the thickness of the prongs near the base.
 

As far as a special tool—if something like this was made at a smaller scale, that might work: https://www.amazon.com/Contour-Gauge-Duplicator-Outline-Tool/dp/B081DGCQX8

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On 11/10/2020 at 3:14 PM, jessenator said:


I can tell you the way I did it with the Color Classic piece. I think there are specialized tools one could use, but since I don't have access, I have a fairly accurate method. I use precision measurement equipment (just good, metric rulers) and photograph them (with a lens that gives me the least amount of distortion) from multiple angles, to make sure I get it all. In some cases you could get away with a flatbed scanner. I then used a drawing program (I used illustrator, but one could use another solution, where you can place images and scale units until you're working 1:1
tuDFA7Z.jpg

pNFWcy7.jpg


In other parts, such as the curvature on the "facade" of the name plate, I measured the thickness in three spots with my calipers: edges and the center:
wav82oM.jpg?1
iFNUez2.png

I know that photo doesn't look it, but the "support" plastic backing behind the curved facade/fascia piece is flat on this "inner" side, so measuring the height was the surest way to get the curvature correctly.

 

These weren't all of the measurements I took, but this is a start. I go back and forth, from drawing, to reference piece, re-measure, and I went through a number of 3d meshes until I was satisfied with my end result. Obviously, even with the beta version linked above, I missed a couple of small things: the thickness of the prongs near the base.
 

As far as a special tool—if something like this was made at a smaller scale, that might work: https://www.amazon.com/Contour-Gauge-Duplicator-Outline-Tool/dp/B081DGCQX8

I think I found the little mini curve duplicator tool you're looking for! A company named MicroMark makes small version of trades tools...

https://www.micromark.com/6-Contour-Gauge

image.thumb.png.8b819f8720550f6d35ab2355a9ea2fe7.png

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8 hours ago, rplacd said:

A company named MicroMark makes small version of trades tools...

That's pretty great. Even though I don't need 90% of those tools for anything, I sure enjoyed perusing the marking and measuring section.

 

I kinda want that contour measure tool, though.

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11 hours ago, jessenator said:

I kinda want that contour measure tool, though.

Same! Instead of exhaustively measuring things, was just thinking of separately copying curved parts onto engineering paper, scaling it to the correct size, and compositing multiple images like that in Photoshop to get front views and profiles. (I don't have a scanner, so I sure hope that my iPhone camera and perspective correction will work...)

 

I blew a little money on it, and I'll report back.

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I went to go download a 68040 storage tray, but the model is now gone from Thingiverse :(

 

So, I decided to start another one, based on a tiny thumbnail of the image:

cpu-tray-for-4-pcs.jpeg.8c2637d36bdedca53801275a7e3fb0f5.jpeg

 

Measured one of my CPUs and have it a smidge of wiggle room, which proved to be just enough:

BXXipvC.jpg

 

Printed this first draft to even make sure a 68040 will fit in it properly:

6tQC7Om.jpg

 

Seems to work:

y25F2jk.jpg

There's a pleasant small snapping into place for a decent hold. I'll need to print another one and possibly refine the nested legs so they can stack/act like a lid, just in case.

 

The pins are surrounded but not compressed at all, allowing for multiple layers to stack without touching at all.

 

I wanted this as an alternative to foam pieces where the pins just get bent anyway... It'll still need to be stored in ESD protective bags, obviously, but it's a decent storage solution, I think.

 

Once I test and work out the kinks I'll post an STL or Thingiverse link. I thought about trimming it up a touch, but at only 20 g of material at 30% infill and minimal supports, I don't want to make it weaker, so input is welcome.

 

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Well, some refinement is in order:
mzDRGsGh.jpg?1

 

I have some weird trapezoidal action happening on the bottom feet, which I suppose could be a nozzle height issue. Tried to slide the feet onto the corresponding notch on the top and the foot just snapped off.

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Alright, I think I've solved the stacking issue:
GLFgZ9th.jpg?2 AJ2V5UKh.jpg?1 gaCOZvLh.jpg?1

Above is R3. R2 had some issues with it actually grabbing the ceramic of the CPU below it when it snapped into place. One last iteration test I want to make is to see if it's better putting the larger feet on the bottom. Both were "single" holders to save PLA and time.

From there, I may end up adding a floor, maybe not solid, but something to prevent pin damage during handling. I mean, depth isn't an issue, there's enough clearance for the pins, but at least putting in an "X" or something for a floor , or maybe covering the pins, and then an "X" over the plate (these aren't heat spreaders... right? it's like the plate over the die covering the connections IIRC).

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This is a neat project!

 

I wonder if something similar could be designed for more modern CPUs, such as the Core2 Duo, Athlon, etc., as I have many of those floating around loosely (the C2Ds don't have pins, so bending isn't an issue, but they can still be damaged via ESDs and such).

 

c

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Hi there,

 

Has anyone recreated the power buttons for the 8100 series? I'm getting a Powermac 8100 soon but the buttons are missing from the case. The part seems to be "Reset/Interrupt 922-0843"
If anyone got the .stl files for them, can you please refer me to them?

Thanks,

Yuffi.

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msata to 2.5" Holding Bracket. I found one design for sd-card and made one for the msata which i prefer to use. I based of the outer bracket on: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3040182 

 

was alot of trial and error (trash bin is full of prints hehe) because the msata version is harder to fit and doesn't have a hole to fix it with. 

I could just snap it in printed on PETG. Support is needed to print it.

 

Adapter is: "adaptare 46235 mSATA-SSD" found on Amazon for example. 

 

IMG_2802.thumb.jpg.626993a62cbab8773e47826c687ddac7.jpg

Powerbook 2.5%22 msata Adapter-5.stl

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On 7/27/2020 at 9:18 AM, markyb86 said:

I’ve finally finished this model after two years of working on it 7/18/18 is the date in fusion360!

Macintosh Quadra 700 micro

for the pi zero

https://p3d.in/u/zero82386

 

 

I never knew you couldn't download the models from P3D because I don't have a pro account! :-O

 

Thanks to @Aladds for pointing this out!

Here are the STL files in a zip file, also linked to my drop box in case this upload isn't allowed

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgif4inyhqzsggj/MicroQuadra700.zip?dl=0

Thanks!

MicroQuadra700.zip

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