Jump to content

Reddish hue around Color Classic screen


Recommended Posts

It seems that in most, if not all Color Classics I've seen, the display does not use the entire width and height of the CRT screen real estate, but leaves about 1/4" black border unused.  Anyone know why that is? More importantly, in both of my CCs (one upgraded with a LC520 board and another with a Presto Plus), I've noticed that the black border now has a reddish tint to it which is really noticeable under poor lighting. This went away one day on the LC520 upgraded unit but remains on my other CC. Has anyone else noticed this on their CC or figured out what may be causing this? Just want to make sure that this isn't some sign of imminent screen failure. Thanks in advance for any input! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

 i had a LC575 that had a slight reddish tint once.

the funny thing though is, i changed the CRT with a parts machine and the red tint went away.

 

but yeah as unity said, the AB and the MB needs caps too...   All LC5XX and CC models.  

unity sold me his color classic. its a beauty! i'm going to fire it up tonight and play around.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Uni and Uni,

 

Thanks for your suggestions. Small world, Uniserver. Just as you bought your CC from Unity, I bought my recapped LC520 board from you as well as the recap service on my other CC MB with the Presto Plus. Remember? Both now run OS 7.6 with the Presto Plus CC dual booting 7.6 and 8.1. Great job, by the way!  Aside from the screen issue, these are both functioning well.

 

But what this means is that the MB caps are NOT the problem. Maybe the AB caps instead or the CRT? I see Elfin's suggestion about the red setting being too high as a possible explanation but am not sure. Oddly, the problem went away on my LC520-upgraded CC after I removed the back housing and used a leaf blower to remove every speck of dust on the interior of the unit. The thing had been in someone's basement for years before I bought it. The problem with my other CC came on suddenly a few days ago and hasn't gone away. Really annoying.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Swapping logic boards is an excellent idea. Once I accomplish this, I'll let you know the results. Unity, I agree that it would be odd for the color adjustment to be altered spontaneously, especially on two separate CCs, though I guess this is worth a shot, if all else fails.

 

On a completely different topic (which maybe should be posted separately), have you guys tried and had any major issues with using a 575 board for the Mystic upgrade? Thinking of buying a third CC to complete the trilogy. If I proceed, I don't intend to alter the native screen resolution, though I'm aware this requires a ResEdit modification all the same. Just wondering if the Mystic CC is known to be associated with any major bugs or decreased longevity of the unit. Some problems with the mod have indeed been posted, so just wanted to pick your guys' and anyone else's brains before proceeding.  Uniserver, you might just get another logic board to recap in the process.

Link to post
Share on other sites

post-1852-0-54787500-1434721922_thumb.jpg

 

works, and still on original caps too!

 

now i need to get started on this BMW EDC, epoxy coated controler from unity's V12 race car.

post-1852-0-29352100-1434722105_thumb.jpg

 

CC and Mystic upgrade.

i would be for the mystic upgrade if you did the SW patch to run the monitor at its stock resolution.

but the 640x480 hack,  its just no good…   and not to mention it will throw most people into an ecliptic shock. To me, 47 HZ is not a usable refresh rate.

Edited by uniserver
Link to post
Share on other sites

car ECUs are a PITA.    fixed a friend's Audi S6 ECU years ago, sunroof drain clogged and soaked the hell out of the ECU.    enough that the harness corroded and pins started to come out of it.  nightmare.     but replacement was $1200 so it was worth a shot.   I got it to work again, so he was happy. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

attachicon.gifIMG_2096.jpg

 

CC and Mystic upgrade.

i would be for the mystic upgrade if you did the SW patch to run the monitor at its stock resolution.

but the 640x480 hack,  its just no good…   and not to mention it will throw most people into an ecliptic shock. To me, 47 HZ is not a usable refresh rate.

 

My god!!!  What board is that with the huge red heat sinks??!!

jack

Link to post
Share on other sites

That board, with the heat sinks, if for the suspension system. :) Its one of those crazy active type things with inertia sensors in the car. I can only assume since its always working hard and reading the road it must really heat up. I thought the same when I first saw it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've mentoined this before, but we have a 1998 Ford Windstar minivan, and it is rather quirky (it will stall if you accelerate just right during a hard turn, sometimes, it'll stall for no reason), and the more I think about it, the more it seems like an ECU (or PCM, as Ford calls it) issue, probably cap related.

 

Of course, this model of car is noted for being among the most unreliable Ford has produced in the last 30 years, so there's that.

 

c

Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably the MAF sensor. My parents had the same issue. Any stain on the engine during partial idle. Or sudden movement of the gas pedal could result in a stall. But it was not constant. I know they replaced the MAF and I replaced the idle air control valve - never an issue again. Same minivan, I think it too is even a 98.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Windstar is based on the same drivetrain, so it's even worse (Windstars are seriously prone to having transmission failures as a result). 

 

So, was their "Service Engine Soon" indicator lit when the problems came up?

 

c

Link to post
Share on other sites

That drivetrain is fine in the Taurus, if you follow the 30,000 mile fluid change schedule. People don't and then blame the poor car when it dies, like pretty much every other car failure. You've got roughly fifty thousand components in a 1990's car, things do wear out.

 

The Windstar is a bit heavy for it, but with care it can last.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Falcon: I agree, and with a (largely unnecessary, I might add) rebuild at ~20-30k, it should last forever (we hardly drive it anymore because, among other things, the A/C barely works (so it's miserable driving it on a hot day), the headlights inexplicably started "blinking out" (at night, no less), and these aforementioned stalling issues).

 

So, anyway, I can't rule out the ECU at this point, because we took it to several different mechanics, and they all looked it over and found everything to be in good working order (all the sensors check out, the engine is mechanically in good shape, etc.), so the ONLY possible explanation for it's quirky behavior that I can think of is an ECU problem so minute that typical OBDII scanners can't detect it (the problem is not in the programming, in other words).

 

I suspect caps, because they're failing in just about everything else these days, and their failure usually causes some rather bizarre and otherwise inexplicable problems.

 

c

Link to post
Share on other sites

Or a bad ground...

 

Also dont throw the "maintenance" thing at me. Lol. Thats what everyone says and is true to a point....

 

Dad had the car since new and had a catastrophic trans failure around 17k miles. Luckily warranty covered it.

 

And yes routine service was done on it like every other car hes owned.

 

So the trans went again around 65k or so. He changed it and he gave me the car about 162k or so. so he did get some use out of it.

 

but by that point the head gaskets were already failing and there was a bad ground somewhere because the coolant had turned to rust water. and no matter how often he changed it it was even worse. and that's the car you have to use the red stuff and not the green stuff.

Edited by techknight
Link to post
Share on other sites

 guess if your not gonna maintain your car, its best to just have a lease every 2 years... drive it, beat it up... get a new one.   :)

 

I like buying cars broke,  i picked up my BMW for a steal,  and it was just the pressure tank screw...  The seller told me it had a blown head or head gasket.  Unity is rebuilding a V12 7 series BMW in his garage as we speak, he may even got it running today?

Edited by uniserver
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...