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  1. I'm a long-time lurker, and all of your posts have helped me greatly. As a first post, I wanted to share my resolution to what appears to be a common problem, as both the resolution and my interim workaround are different from what I'd seen in other posts. My IIci suffered from a seemingly common problem: it would not stay on. I would press the power button on the back, it would begin to boot for a split-second, emit part of the happy Mac bong, and then die. I have seen several recommended steps to resolve this problem in various posts: 1) replace the SMD capacitors and clean the b
  2. Hi folks, I got a LC as not functioning, no HD, no Floppy I connected a SCSI2SD with an external PS At startup I hear a happy chimes, the LED in SCSI2SD flashes just once, no further attempt to boot no video, no flickering it stays silent forever after a very soft tick sound VRAM tested in another LC, OK RAM swapped and tested in another LC, OK RAM replaced, OK bad RAM, chimes of death The video adapted is used successfully in another LC, same configuration, OK PSU, voltage OK: it works it in another working LC, I us
  3. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follo
  4. I'd need some help here with a Macintosh Color (ColoUr) Classic I bought a couple weeks ago. It was listed as not working, but when I got here a quick inspection at the logic board revealed a bad placed ROM chip, which had two pins out of the socket. Once placed properly it booted up, although without sound and a partially working screen, with artifacts and lines. I dishwashed both the analog and the logic board and that brung the sound back, but the screen was still affected. So I did a full recap of both boards and now it won't turn on. I did the analog first and, stupid me, I didn't test be
  5. Hi I’ve recapped my M5120 and it has sad Mac now. It works previously before capping. I’ve check both battery and power adapter that’s working great so power shouldn’t be the issue. It chimes but has the error as shown. Also swapped out the ram but it’s the same. Any help?
  6. Do any of you own a Mac Plus extended keyboard with numeric keypad? Could you please confirm the capacitance & voltage ratings of axial capacitors C1 & C3 shown in the photo below? I think there are only those 2 electrolytic capacitors, but if there are more, please ket me know that too. Also, if you have calipers, could you measure the distance between the PCB and the bottom of the metal frame so I know the maximum diameter of replacement axial capacitors? Thank you!
  7. Today I recapped a Classic I analog board and MLB. The MLB got an ultrasonic clean after recapping. Without the RAM expansion installed, it boots to a screen with thin horizontal lines, then a repeating pattern that looks a bit like columns of - — ) The fan and HD runs, but no other noises can be heard. With the RAM expansion installed, it boots to a screen with thick vertical bars, then the same repeating pattern as mentioned above. The fan and HD runs and eventually a "tick tick tick tick..." sound is heard from the speaker followed by a fast repetitive noise from the
  8. OK, so I recently recapped my SE/30 mainboard and it went smoothly, and it resolved a weak sound issue. Little guy worked just fine. Great, I thought, I'll get ahead of the curve and recap my (Astec) PSU and analog board. That goes smoothly as well, and I resoldered a few grey-looking connectors on the ab while I was at it. Reassemble, power on... thin vertical simasimac and no chime. Weird, but OK, time for some obvious checks: - checked voltages, all rock solid coming off the ab, and the usual checks on the mb - double checked the ROM SIM and make sure it's clean and se
  9. Hey, new to the forum here. I have accumulated quite the vintage Mac collection, and as everyone has experienced, the leaky capacitor issue is a real pain. Luckily I learned how to remove and solder on new caps. I've been using tantalum caps, and I've got at least 2-3 of the IIci/IIcx motherboards where I recapped them, and they turn on just fine, but once they've warmed up, the just shut off and then power back up. However, they don't power up completely, they immediately turn off again, and on and so on. The cycle starts with the first shutdown/power up I hear the
  10. Hello all, new to the forums I have a Mac Classic II, which had its logic board recapped, bringing the computer to life. After doing so, I decided to recap the analog board. This killed the mac. All of this was done several years ago, and I recently decided I want this machine to work, rather than gather dust. After booting it up, I was greeted with a startup bong and a VERY bright horizontal line. After copious amounts of searching, this is generally attributed to the TEA2037A Horizontal/Vertical deflection IC. However, upon reopening the mac, I actually found that CF4 had
  11. Just this christmas I got a macintosh se/30. I did a recap on it to bring back the sound and to bring back the occasional boot issues with the internal scsi. The internal scsi boots fine now no matter what, but neither my external scsi or external floppy ports boot. The machine starts up and when any external sources is in it gives the flashing floppy. Now I know its not the floppy since Its a emu and it works on my se and my plus. And I know its not my external scsi because It works fine when I use it on my other machines and it works when I put it in the machine. And yes there isn't the slig
  12. Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of which it was used as a door stop at my old high school). Re-cap went smoothly, and afterwards I cleaned the board with soap and a toothbrush, pressure washed with hot water, then shook and sat to dry overnight. Powered on the next day and I get a chime but no video. I decided to have a go at re-flowing UE8
  13. Recapping a Macintosh IIsi Power Supply Related reference (cheat sheet): http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/ or on archive.org, http://web.archive.org/web/20191125110228/http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/
  14. Hello! I've decided to recap the analog boards in my Macintosh SE and SE/30 and now I need to buy the caps and I'm wondering a few things: - which company should I buy the caps from (there's quite a lot of different companies and I don't really know which ones to buy)? - should the max operating temperature be 105 C or is 85 C enough, considering that the SE and the SE/30 have a fan? - is it okay to buy the caps from AliExperss (I know that Mouser is generally the best for capacitor purchases, but the shipping is quite expensive, because I'm located in a smaller co
  15. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can
  16. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  17. So I'm starting a new topic to update my old one. Check out the whole story on my original issue. After finally getting a new fly back for my mac plus the fast ticking never changed. I checked the voltages on the caps and sure enough the flyback still is not getting enough power. So what I did was first heat up the caps to see if any of the 33 and 22uf caps are bad. They didn't change any thing other than speed up the ticking a little. I have never got it to stop ticking while using the heatgun. Then I thought it was my motherboard so I drowned it in vinegar carefully using an exact-o knife on
  18. Hi, got a Mac Plus for a great deal but all it does is make a pop kind of noise, sort of like my Mac SE did when it was working well, I believe this is the CRT turning on, it also makes a tiny little whine, some of the large caps on the left look like their heat shrink has been pulled downwards. No picture, no chime, logic board looks great though. Can someone point me to a 220-240V Macintosh Plus analog board recap list? Could the PSU and flyback transformer be an issue too?
  19. Can someone recommend a source for recap service? I have used AllCaps and it was returned non-functional. Then sent three of them off to Charles Phililps in May 2018 and they still haven't been returned. Also, I believe I have a blown SCSI or blown fuse after connecting an external CD with a bad SCSI terminator. I'd appreciate any help on these items. Thanks.
  20. My Mac Plus powered up on brightest settings and when I dimmed using the toggle it doesn't dim and it flickers. I think it needs a recap and I don't wish to recap the whole board. Anyone knows which caps do I change for the brightness control on the analog board?
  21. I have a functional Xceed grayscale adapter that looks exactly like joethezombie's photo. There are 4 electrolytic radial capacitors that are old enough to warrant replacing, especially so since they are only temperature rated up to 85°C: C4: 10uF, 16V C5: 47uF, 10V C8: 100uF, 16V C9: 100uF, 63V There are numerous 10,000-hour 105°C rated replacements available on Mouser. Have any of you grayscale adapter owners performed a recap on your adapter? And more specifically, do any of you understand the function of the adapter well enough to know if replaceme
  22. Hi All, I had Ebay seller AllMacs recap both my IIsi board and one of my SE/30 boards. I have bee using the board in the WtM configuration for a few days without issue. Prior to the recap I got this scary image on screen and decided it was time to get on with the recap... Here is a shot of the board before the work: And here is after: And some shots of this work, "As you can see the trace on this pad was making no connection, due to corrosion . I fixed the damage with a new pad and reconnected it"
  23. Hi All, Over the holiday weekend I was able to pull out my IIsi motherboard and of my SE/30s to be recapped. Both need their power supplies addressed. The IIsi is pretty maxed out in terms of what I run it it so I am interested to see if an ATX has been hacked into the IIsi. I have seen ATX going in SE/30 PSUs however they are slightly larger. Anyone done ATX with a IIsi? THx!! ~Von
  24. I finished recapping the comms board in my LW Pro 630 and now it is working once again! I still need to replace the caps on the DC controller board but at least it is working now that the communication board is resurrected. As soon as my next shipment from DigiKey comes in, I'll get the two caps on DC controller swapped out and she should be like a new printer. I have connected the MiniDin-8 to my Apple IIgs, and the ethertalk to the network. I configured ethertalk to my Raspberry Pi running A2SERVER and then shared it via CUPS to all of the modern computers in the house. The compu
  25. Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was pr
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