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  1. I scored a great deal on a 7300/200 that turns out to have an upgraded processor, ATI Rage Pro, and an OrangePC 620. That's the good news. The bad news is that plugging in the PSU resulted in sparks and smoke shooting out the back! I'd checked the PSU for leaky caps before, and everything thing looked okay. The thing that exploded was a resistor: R4, 1 ohm ceramic, right next to the connector for where the mains plugs into the PCB. I replaced R4 with another 1 ohm... and that one also spectacularly exploded. Strangely the fuse in the PSU didn't
  2. Hi all, I have a faulty PSU in my mac classic, despite my attempts it still does not work I noticed that the AC-DC is isolated from the DC-DC part in the board, so do the CRT board downward. So, I have the crazy idea that by removing the transformer and the optoisolator, at this point I could inject the current from an external PSU into the pads where the voltages is supplied to the MB. Pls look at the picture. This could give power to the CRT and the MB. The DC DC it still connected but it would not, in my opinion, create problems. The question is: wo
  3. I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford
  4. Hi there, it's my first post! Some time ago, the PSU in my IIsi suddenly turned itself off while running. Recently I opened it up to try and fix it and found 4 leaked caps on the secondary stage. The electrolyte had corroded through the legs and affected the solder mask and some pins on the bottom side. No unrepairable damage though. Cleaned the mess off, resoldered the oxidized wires and replaced the bad caps. Then tested the bare PCB on my desk with a fog light as load on the +5. It worked absolutely fine again: briefly touching /PFW to PSTRICL turned it on, touching /PFW to GND turned it
  5. Hello, Introduction : This is a quick guide on how I upgraded the PSU on my Performa 6200. This guide applies to all macs which share the same case (Quadra/LC/Performa 630, Performa/PowerMac 62XX/63XX) PowerSupplys inside this case are an afterthought. They are badly designed and the first cause of dead of Quadra 630 / Performa 6200 and friends. The case cooling doesn't help, but this PSU model is especially bad. About 80% of causes on this models are a blown PSU. You can't even put any PSU that fits, because the PSU is also used as a guide for the logic board.
  6. I recently bought a Performa 450 which was in very good condition, no visible leakages, blown-up batteries etc. When I power it on, I can only hear a clicking sound from the speaker. Fan is working correctly. I measured output of the PSU and so far it looks like I'm getting wrong voltage on +12V and +5V lines. It fluctuates around +8.5V and +2.8V respectively. -5V line shows correct voltage though. Do I have faulty voltage regulators or should I recap the PSU? It's one of the Dyna Comp (not TDK). Close-up photos attached.
  7. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and
  8. Recapping a Macintosh IIsi Power Supply Related reference (cheat sheet): http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/ or on archive.org, http://web.archive.org/web/20191125110228/http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/
  9. Hey gang, I could cry like a baby... Restaurated my Q950, cleaned it, gave it a nice retrobright sunbath, tidied-up the A/UX installation and being annoyed by the loud fan, I went for the final step replacing it with something more silent and while at it, I gave the PSU a good blow of fresh air to undust it. Power-on and..... bzzzzzzt, poof, holy smoke. The PSU went the way of the dodo (Nope, the polarity of the fan was correct) - Only god knows if it was the undusting or just about time to die... So here's my request for help: a) How do I get that damn PSU o
  10. I'm in the planning process to recap the SONY PSU housed inside my Apple HD20SC external hard drive enclosure. (I might make a video.) I've got a Mouser cart filled with mostly Organic Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors for that PSU (see below), which have very low ESR down to between 12mΩ and 43mΩ. There are many benefits to low ESR capacitors, and the life rating on them is very high compared to regular aluminum electrolytics. But my concern is that the output of some switch-mode (switching) power supplies can ring if the ESR of the output capacitance is too low (as per the data sh
  11. Picked up an old, very dusty Macintosh 7100/66 from a guy in Cincinnati about a year or so ago. Worked for a while but one day I heard some crackling noises coming from within the PSU. Unplugged it very quickly and cracked open the PSU to find the devastating scene in the attached photo. I noticed one of the IC's was fried pretty badly, so I bought a replacement and installed it. However, upon plugging in the power supply a second time, the IC fried in the same exact way it had before. I've circled it red in one of the attached photos. I really have no idea how this PSU works, but what might b
  12. Hi Guys, i brought a used a/b analogue board/sony psu combo as a temporary replacement for my se/30’s whilst i recap and clear up my original items. The replacement board is from an SE which I believe is identical? Basically I’ve been experiencing some minor shimmers/flickering especially when cold (3-4 months now) so i thought it was about time to re-cap both my analogue board and psu as the motherboard had already been recapped some time ago, including a new battery. Question is psu board looks a little unusual, at first i though it was spilt liquid of leaking capacitors yet on inspecti
  13. In October, I was lucky enough to be asked to "dispose" of a PowerMac G4 Cube. It was complete but very dirty having being left in an outdoor shed for 11 years! I brought it home and gave it a clean, connected it, crossed my fingers and plugged it in. The fuse immediately blew in the plug and from researching the problem, it looked like the psu had died. As I couldn't get into the PSU and was quoted a lot of money to fix it, I bought an LED power supply rated at 28V, 250W and tried that. This time the computer booted up and ran. It worked fine for a few days except that there was a CD stuck in
  14. Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows how to rewire a standard ATX PSU to use in a powermac 8100, my IIci uses one and I have another spare for the 8100. Also, will soft power work straight away?
  15. I recently got involved in reverse engineering the power architecture of the Quadra 630, in order to do an ATX PSU conversion. One thing I noticed is the large differences in component values between models, and implementations. Now I am very interested in finding out what the differences are and what causes them, so there is a definitive "map" of these conversions per-model. I will be making a chart/graph showing implementation differences between different conversion methods. All I ask of the community is information. If you have done a conversion: what model Mac did you use, how did you
  16. I will admit it's been about five years since i fired up the ole' classic. When I tried to last night, there was a disturbing loud humm (electrical sounding) coming from the PSU area. I opened her up and all the boards are good, no exploded caps or PRAM batteries that I could see. Of course I don't know much about CRT tubes or PSU's so i left those alone not wanting to electrocute myself. Has anyone encountered this before? I do have a local electronics guy who is a wizard with soldering and electronics and has been doing it professionally for 35 years. If this is somethin
  17. Hello everybody, It seems that I took the PSU from IIcx in and out too often (I was investigating floppy problems). The machine won't start any more. A member here suggested that I could use a PSU from a PM7100 (of which I happen to have one lying around). Both PSUs have the same form-factors, both are made by Astec and the details are as follows: Thing being measured IIcx PM7100 Model Number AA15830 AA16870 Made in Malaysia The Philippines Apple Part No. 699-0392 614-0009 Output: +5V
  18. I was reading about the dangers of not replacing PSU capacitors on PowerBook duos, and today I get my one chance to go by capacitors so I need schematics for the 210
  19. Hi folks. Yesterday, I finished reassembling the PM G5. It is, as you probably know, a long and tedious process. Plugged it to the outlet and immediately after that, 3 LEDs lit up: Processor A, Processor B and Trickle Power. I thought the Processors weren't aligned properly but no. It seems the PSU isn't outputting anything on the processor side... I get 0 Volts at the power bus bar, and 0V at either CPU terminals. The logic board gets power though through the connector located near the plug. The other connector (towards the front of the unit) doesn't appear to be doing anything. LED
  20. I have a monstrous Attila the Mac 950 Quadra tower that is a fantastic machine. Works great with one strange startup quirk: Before powering on, I have to turn off the power to the machine (using a power strip on/off button), then on again immediately prior to powering up the 950. If I do this it boots 100% of the time, very reliably. If I DON'T do this power strip on/off step, the machine fails to boot properly and hangs with a grey screen at startup. Very reliably. BTW I didn't just stumble up on this startup workaround, I found a hint during my hours of googling vintage mac startup
  21. I have several working IIci macs and have been trying to get one in nice shape complete with a recap to set up in my working vintage mac office. Power supplies seem quirky and sometimes mysterious, so I thought I might post some of my observations here and see if any collective wisdom or similar experience might help guide my next steps. Back in December I did some testing to sort out which machine to have recapped. In testing, it seemed all 3 machines suffered from a strange symptom where the on-board power button had to be held down in order to sustain power. Strange. Anyone seen this be
  22. Hello everybody, What is the current thinking in regards to recapping boards with orginal caps that work? I^m thinking particularly of the SE, SE/30 and Colour Classic. For the latter two, something is not working, the SE works. My initial thinking was that these machines are over 20 years old and will need new capacitors anyway. Some posters have commented, especially for the SE, that if it is not broken, do not fix it. Is preventative action wise? unnecessary? My second question concerns what should be recapped? I was initially thinking of just getting the mainboard recapped.
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