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Found 14 results

  1. Think the Macintosh 128K, 512K & Plus motherboards don't need a recap? Time to Think Different. It's been 35+ years since the debut of the 128K & 512K, folks. Fluid-filled capacitors don't have eternal life. Properly chosen solid Tantalum, on the other hand, will last the life of the board. My video below shows recapping of the keyboard too. PLEASE watch on YouTube so you can expand the text description under the video, as it contains Mouser Carts and important info, especially for you Mac Plus owners. https://youtu.be/vz2NGF5Vuao
  2. Here is what you can expect, Video Chapters 0:00 — Intro 2:19 — Capacitor Locations 4:41 — Capacitor Replacement 14:18 — Microscope view 18:55 — Lifting head for cleaning 21:13 — Protective yellow plastic disk 22:37 — Metal Mounting Bracket 24:31 — Ribbon Cable Types (stripe color) 26:20 — Disk Ejection Woe 26:57 — Cleaning & Lube 30:11 — Sliding smooth with KURE 5-56 (WD-40) 34:22 — Plastic Gearbox Disassembly 37:43 — Gear that usually breaks 40:31 — Microscope view of Gears 47:06 — Head Assembly Removal for lubrication 52:02 — SuperLube Grease & Oil
  3. I just ordered a set of caps to service several Color Classic analog boards. There are 23 different caps on this board, so just getting all the right stuff in the cart was tedious. Here's a Digikey cart link to make it quick and easy for anyone else doing the same. https://www.digikey.com/short/zmr2t1 This is for a complete recap, which may be unnecessary. Check out the various guides if you want to trim it down to only likely culprits. Also, the quantities in this cart are to replace caps on one board, with no spares. Most are very cheap, so you might want
  4. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and
  5. It’s been long in coming but I finally kicked it out today. Yes, even your working order Mac 128K through the Plus can use a recap. A video INDEX is in the text description on YouTube to help you easily refer to different sections of this 1 hour video. Even if you aren't interested in a recap, check out the bad Flyback segment where it lights up in the dark!
  6. An impromptu live recapping Old electronic devices with surface mount electrolytic capacitors are often affected by capacitor leakage. Watch Bruce of Branchus Creation muddle through the recapping of a Macintosh IIvi. New to recapping? Watch the man and learn some cool stuff. Enjoy!
  7. Just uploaded my Apple Hard Disk 20SC recapping video, which also covers the 40SC, 80SC and 160SC since they all use the same SONY CR-43 PSU. Check the text description for a Mouser Cart and useful info. At the end, I do a boot test with a 2015 15" MBP.
  8. I'm in the planning process to recap the SONY PSU housed inside my Apple HD20SC external hard drive enclosure. (I might make a video.) I've got a Mouser cart filled with mostly Organic Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors for that PSU (see below), which have very low ESR down to between 12mΩ and 43mΩ. There are many benefits to low ESR capacitors, and the life rating on them is very high compared to regular aluminum electrolytics. But my concern is that the output of some switch-mode (switching) power supplies can ring if the ESR of the output capacitance is too low (as per the data sh
  9. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  10. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in
  11. Hello everybody, What is the current thinking in regards to recapping boards with orginal caps that work? I^m thinking particularly of the SE, SE/30 and Colour Classic. For the latter two, something is not working, the SE works. My initial thinking was that these machines are over 20 years old and will need new capacitors anyway. Some posters have commented, especially for the SE, that if it is not broken, do not fix it. Is preventative action wise? unnecessary? My second question concerns what should be recapped? I was initially thinking of just getting the mainboard recapped.
  12. Hi all, I am finally working to recap/restore my Classic II that has been out of commission for the last 8 years, using it as practice to refurbish the rest of my collection. The Classic II had weak sound and stopped booting a number of years ago but I have some newbie questions for the refurbishment process. I purchased replacement capacitors as per uniserver's diagrams, got the case cracked open and proceeded with an initial wash as prep before surgery. My steps were: Wash with water spray 91% isopropyl alcohol, swirly motions in a tub of water spray again with alcohol delicate
  13. Damn, I swear. I was hoping to post up the tale of two recaps of two LC IIIs, but success fails me. One LC III (a LC III @ 25MHz) was dead to begin with. The other LC III (a LC III @ 33MHz) was semi OK, it kept producing random sounds which is attributed to leaky caps. It is the second LC III I crippled. During the recapping, three (1 - 47µf and 2 - 10µf ) caps literally came off the board with no force applied to them and the traces ripped off from the board. It was going so well until I hit these three caps. Then I went to get some wire and found nothing useful so I had to go shopping. I
  14. With help with from Uniserver, I decided to recap my SE/30 PSU as he determined and evidence shows that is where the Humongus Fish Smell is coming from. And on my thread, he posted up a pic of the caps that need replacement in the SE/30 PSU. So I started to look them up and ran into an interesting situation: Caps for the same rating by different and even the same manufacturer come in different sizes. Thus it comes to a situation - is a physically bigger cap better than a smaller one with the same rating? Is a thin tall cap better or worse than a short fat one with the same rating? Note - there
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