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Found 12 results

  1. Think the Macintosh 128K, 512K & Plus motherboards don't need a recap? Time to Think Different. It's been 35+ years since the debut of the 128K & 512K, folks. Fluid-filled capacitors don't have eternal life. Properly chosen solid Tantalum, on the other hand, will last the life of the board. My video below shows recapping of the keyboard too. PLEASE watch on YouTube so you can expand the text description under the video, as it contains Mouser Carts and important info, especially for you Mac Plus owners. https://youtu.be/vz2NGF5Vuao
  2. Well, I'm in tears again over my own foolishness. I've been shooting a video that focuses on recapping of 400K floppy drives. I hadn't begun the actual recapping but was doing some preliminary tear-aparts and testing. I had my 400K floppy drive mechanism connected via ribbon cable to my 512K motherboard, but I had the drive mechanism pulled outside the back (with the back case off) and sitting on some plastic floppy disk cases. I had a single jumper wire with alligator clips at either end connected to the metal chassis of the Mac and to the metal chassis of the floppy drive. All was going
  3. Destroyed a few pads on my CC and SE/30 boards. CC was the first board I tried to re-cap, with my rusty soldering skills and not the best iron. My electronics guru helped reconstruct most of the traces but we couldn't get this last one and I can't tell what it connects to. SE/30 recap went smoothly (I learned from my mistakes with the CC and took it slow) but I broke a pin off UF8 and then killed 4 traces trying to remove it!
  4. So I'm starting a new topic to update my old one. Check out the whole story on my original issue. After finally getting a new fly back for my mac plus the fast ticking never changed. I checked the voltages on the caps and sure enough the flyback still is not getting enough power. So what I did was first heat up the caps to see if any of the 33 and 22uf caps are bad. They didn't change any thing other than speed up the ticking a little. I have never got it to stop ticking while using the heatgun. Then I thought it was my motherboard so I drowned it in vinegar carefully using an exact-o knife on
  5. It is with great shame and embarrassment that I submit this post. I was working to get my 2nd soft power transistor build and when I went to test, I forgot that the power supply was still plugged into the IIsi motherboard. When I flipped the power strip on there was a pop and then that smell... Here is the board: And here is what literally blew up: My walk of shame explaining this begins now. The board was on the bench and plugged in to the SeaSonic power supply with all wires except for pins 9 and 10 (+5v_SB)...these were floating freel
  6. I am starting this thread to see if there is some possibility of getting my two SE/30 motherboards repaired or replaced. In 2012, I went through my collection and realized I had two SE/30 logic boards which showed the Horizontal Lines (Simasimac) at cold boot. Those lines were stable on-screen and would display forever, meaning the SE/30 would never boot. Prior to 2012, I had recapped both boards but found they both had identical Simasimac symptoms. The two boards were recapped at different times, one being one of the very first SE/30 logic boards I ever recapped -- I used elect
  7. Hi, Am working on a long term restoration project of a Lisa 2/5. This is my first attempt at restoring a Lisa and I have a lot to learn. Fortunately, I have multiple copies of each board and a configuration of boards that work (except for some video adjustments I need to do to the CRT). I have one motherboard which works well EXCEPT does not register the mouse button as being pressed. The mouse pointer moves fine. When you press the button, no action on screen. The mouse itself is fine and works perfect on a 128K Mac. The mouse also works perfect when the motherboard
  8. Hello, i got got this PowerBook 160 from gumtree sold as is - I recapped the power supply and it’s giving a constant 7.8 volts I don’t get a chime only the screen pictured, no HDD spins up - and there are no electrolytics on the main board for me to recap so I’m stumped and have no clue on where to go from here any help would be much appreciated Please includ as much detail as possible ☺️ thankyou, ‘Jarrod
  9. Hi All, I am close to being able to put my SE/30's back together. I'd like to be able to run the machine with the motherboard out of the chassis as I saw someone on this forum doing. What I'd really like to be able to do is leave the stock cable plugged into the analog board then have an extension cable that gives ~2feet of room for the mobo to sit outside of its case. I believe the stock analog board to mobo cable is f/f. Does someone have the right crimper to build such a cable? Yes I could buy a stock cable on eBay for about $13 US but then it needs to be spliced
  10. Hi everyone. I recently pulled out my Macintosh Classic from the closet so I can play around with it. I acquired it on a eBay auction a couple of years ago. The Macintosh has a 500 mb hard drive with 4MB of RAM installed. The little machine runs great but lacks sound. No startup chime or anything but boots right into System 7.5 that I installed fresh less then an hour ago. I go into the Control Panel for sound and it still plays nothing even though the volume is on max. I've plugged in my external speaker and it makes very little sound. I've even tried out the Control Panel for sound as well w
  11. Hi! I have a Macintosh 128K (a European version, 220V) which is converted to a 512K. It looks like just te chipset has been upgraded, but is it done by Apple (see attached photo)? The chips are branded with NEC so that makes me suspicious that it is not. Is this an original Apple-factory upgrade from 128K to 512K or is it done by someone else? Do you have any clue what the “Apple 16” sticker (round, white with red apple logo) on the large chip might mean (see photo)? Best regards, Rob The Netherlands
  12. From the album: Teraforce88's LC II

    My LC II motherboard with what appears to be leaky capacitors; the board boots and works except the video output has some corruption (thin vertical lines that become closer together as you increase the bit depth/color count).
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