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  1. Ok long story short, I connected the battery in wrong polarity, after I found out I was wrong I switched back. The portable still powers up but unable to run scsi HDD nor charge the battery. I think one mosfet could be blew but I’m not sure which. When I plugged in adapter and battery, voltage tested at battery point was 6.33v. If I do this on a working M5120 it reads 6.9v so I’m presuming the power couldn’t charge the battery hence not giving enough power to run the scsi HDD too. Can anyone enlighten me which mosfet or which component is affected?
  2. I've been struggling to set up SCSI2SD for my Mac CC for quite a while and I've decided to try the SCSI2SD monitor and to my dismay it said "SD Test: FAIL". My question is: does this mean that SCSI2SD adapter is damaged? (the worse case) or is it just that the SD card is damaged? (a bit unlikely yet better case)
  3. I took this battery out of my Macintosh CC before it started leaking, and I'd like to find a replacement for it. I've searched local stores and they don't sell these, so I'm asking what's the best replacement for this kind of battery?
  4. I have a Mac Plus that has been working perfectly for decades, but it has recently developed a few issues. When the Mac boots, it will promptly reach the desktop as usual, but anywhere from 1-5 minutes after booting, the Mac will crash out entirely to a blank screen and replay the startup bong repetitively in no particular pattern until I shut the Mac down using the switch at the back. When the Mac crashes, it will play the startup bong repetitively about 5-10 times and then it will somewhat restore itself and begin loading, only to crash out again during the startup process either before
  5. My Macintosh Plus has many hardware issues, but I would like to address this one today. This checkerboard appeared one day and alongside that, the sound stopped working. I already replaced electrolytic capacitors on both logic board and analogue board. I recently upgraded my Macintosh from 2.5Mb of RAM to 4Mb of RAM and the checkerboard changed. I would appreciate some help with this problem because I tried many solutions and none have worked. Before 4Mb upgrade: After 4Mb upgrade:
  6. I've been having A/V problems for some time now, I asked people on r/VintageApple and they said I should recap logic board. I already replaced all cylindrical capacitors on the analog board and a professional replaced the capacitors on the logic board, but alas, there wasn't any change, I still get this checkerboard on startup and there's no sound at all (except some occasional faint screeches). I am getting really desperate for solutions because this is a very specific problem that has not been (probably) documented yet. I really want to make my Mac Plus work again, but anything I've tried di
  7. Hello everyone, I recapped the logic board and the analog board of my Macintosh Classic but when I turn the computer I hear the chime and then I get a gray screen with a pointer I can move using the mouse. It will no go further than this gray screen. If I disconnect the hard drive I get the usual floppy with the question mark. I tested the hard drive power cable with a voltmeter and I got a strong 12V and 5V respectively. I guess the hard drive may work but has the boot files corrupted. Something that caught my attention and I don’t know if it is part of the problem is that ther
  8. Hopefully, this would come in handy for anyone curious about the PCMCIA module made for the PowerBook 500 series. I've posted as many pictures from various angles of the board assembly and parts (in case anyone has interest in planning modifications and how much space is inside the module) as I don't intend to open this up very often. If at all. There are three hex screws, one plastic tab, and a sticker holding my Rev C module together. I didn't have a hex bit of the correct size, but a Torx T6 proved a snug fit that allowed me to remove the screws. When I depressed the plastic ta
  9. Hello everyone! I introduce myself, my name is Rodrigo. I live in Argentina, so I apologize if my English is bad. First, I apologize for asking for help without having helped before. I've been reading this forum since 2017, but I've only just had time to get back to work on the Mac during quarantine. In 2017 I had the joy of finding a forgotten Macintosh Plus (Apple is not very common in my country) in an old warehouse. He had suffered a lot, he had the rear battery door with the battery burst and a lot of dirt. When turned on, the dreaded SadMac appeared with a co
  10. Yes, even 400K floppy drives need to be recapped. This video walkthrough holds your hand through the process. I show a few clips of Epyx Winter Games at the end. The bootable 400K DSK image I created yesterday is now on Macintosh Garden. https://youtu.be/71Lz9OjJFe8
  11. I recently bought a Performa 450 which was in very good condition, no visible leakages, blown-up batteries etc. When I power it on, I can only hear a clicking sound from the speaker. Fan is working correctly. I measured output of the PSU and so far it looks like I'm getting wrong voltage on +12V and +5V lines. It fluctuates around +8.5V and +2.8V respectively. -5V line shows correct voltage though. Do I have faulty voltage regulators or should I recap the PSU? It's one of the Dyna Comp (not TDK). Close-up photos attached.
  12. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and
  13. Well, I'm in tears again over my own foolishness. I've been shooting a video that focuses on recapping of 400K floppy drives. I hadn't begun the actual recapping but was doing some preliminary tear-aparts and testing. I had my 400K floppy drive mechanism connected via ribbon cable to my 512K motherboard, but I had the drive mechanism pulled outside the back (with the back case off) and sitting on some plastic floppy disk cases. I had a single jumper wire with alligator clips at either end connected to the metal chassis of the Mac and to the metal chassis of the floppy drive. All was going
  14. After recapping my Mac512's Analog Board and booting either from a floppy disk (in the internal 400k drive) or booting from the FloppyEMU, with the case back off, I can faintly hear some beeping sounds coming from the area of the analog board, but it doesn't seem to be the speaker that I can tell. Here's a recording of the entire boot sequence, booting off the FloppyEMU: Mac512k_FloppyEMU_BootSounds.mp3 Honestly, I can't remember if I had heard these sounds before the recap, since I normally have the case on. The flyback is good (and tested in a dark room), but it wou
  15. Below are 2 photos of AC line filter "LF2" from two different Macintosh 128k~Plus Analog Boards. The newest board is stamped 4192 (1986 PCB), which I assume means 42nd week of 1992, and uses the LF2 without the green Earth wire. The other PCB is a 1983-84 version stamped 0792, which I assume means 7th week of 1992, and you can see it has the green earth wire wound inside LF2. Indeed, most every Analog Board I've seen has the Earth wire wound in LF2. Why do you think the green Earth ground wire was not wound into LF2 on the 4192 board? By the way, the 3-pi
  16. Hello everyone! I was just wondering if anyone knows where I might be able to find the 1984 Macintosh Security Kit for sale (see the pictures below for what I’m looking for)? I’ve tried looking on eBay, but I don’t think there’s anyone selling them! If anyone could recommend some places that I might be able to find them and buy them, that would be really appreciated! Thank you everyone!
  17. I tend to swap out the electrolytics in a recap and leave the film or metalized paper caps alone if they are good. Some among us have experienced blown filter caps near the power input on the original Macintosh analog boards, specifically these Rifa caps: C33: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C37: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C38: 0.1uF 250V Minibox The stock Rifa caps all appear to be metalized paper capacitors. A directed replacement for C33 and C37 would be the KEMET PME271YA4470MR30, also metalized paper. But
  18. I scored four NuBus cards in an IIfx, and one of them was the Thunder IV GX 1360! The IIfx was sold as untested, and still, it works like a charm, even with the original 160 MB Seagate! Thank you @Bolle for helping me out identifying the cards!
  19. Hey guys, I just have a simple question to ask. I have a Macintosh 128k with what I think to be a 512k upgrade board. It even says 512k on a little sticker on the board. However, it is missing the Roms to it. It just displays a checkerboard. My question to you guys is, what roms should I purchase? 512k roms or 128k roms. Thanks again, any help is welcome.
  20. Hey guys, hope your doing well. I wanted to ask another favor of you guys. A while ago, I had asked about my mac 128 with a fine vertical line issue. You guys asked me to reflow the solder, which I have done. However, the problem still persists, and I wanted to ask if you had any ideas. I get no beep. just a fine vertical line. Sorry for not getting back after over 4 years. Thanks again. I really appreciate it. See attached photos:
  21. Hey! I'm trying to find the software that is featured on the cover of the first edition Macintosh Plus manual, which can be found here! It looks like a spreadsheet/charts application, but I can't seem to find anything about it on the internet. Thanks everyone!
  22. Hi, This is my first post on these forums. I felt this would be the best place to come to ask how to get my Macintosh SE working again. So I managed to get my hands on this Macintosh SE. It came with the original manuals, mouse, keyboard, and even a carry bag! I paid around $5 New Zealand dollars for it. Yes I can't believe it either. So when I got it home, I plugged it in and it turned on, and it worked! I think that the disk drive is dead, because it just had the disk logo with a question mark and ejected the yellow protector disk. I left it
  23. The quantum hard disk in my color classic died, so I bought a SCSI2SD and was reading some information about it on codesrc.com and there was written that SCSI2SD needs to run on 5V or else the board would break.
  24. Just uploaded my Apple Hard Disk 20SC recapping video, which also covers the 40SC, 80SC and 160SC since they all use the same SONY CR-43 PSU. Check the text description for a Mouser Cart and useful info. At the end, I do a boot test with a 2015 15" MBP.
  25. I finally kicked out my Apple TechStep video today. This has been long in coming. Be sure to check out the text description beneath my video on YouTube because it contains a link to a SIT file containing Disk Copy images of the two included floppies, one of which has a pretty neat HyperCard stack.
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