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  1. Hello All, I need your help to identify the IC part number located at U9 on my 840AV logic board. I recently purchased this 840 from eBay as not working and I started removing the leaky SMT electrolytic capacitors. I discovered that the IC at location U9 is missing. Bomarc schematics appear to have it as part of the analog sound circuit for the headphone output. I have uploaded a picture of its Empty location. Please share it’s part number, so I may purchase a replacement. Thanks, Bama
  2. i am having very weird issues with a powerbook 160, i have suspicion that it has to do with an interconnect cable as it has been bent a lot and looks pinched in some places. it gets worse over time and sound will stop working after time VID_20200822_212607.mp4 VID_20200822_213010.mp4 VID_20200822_212120.mp4 VID_20200822_213010.mp4 VID_20200822_212120.mp4 VID_20200822_213010.mp4
  3. Hi! New here Was going to post this here first, but as my activation email didn't get thrue until today, I posted this already in Reddit /r/vintageMac. I came across a local ad for a Mac 512K keyboard and mouse. Reading the ad, I noticed that it actually noted "a non-working Mac 512K can also be included". This was interesting as I rarely see Macs of this vintage locally, and this was only a short distance away from me. From the photos I could see that the machine was a 120V which was interesting (living in a 220V country). Ok, I went to bought the set for less than 100$.
  4. Hi, I just bought a slightly parted out imac g4 online. It was missing a PSU, drive cage and heatsink. I have aquired these items, but now I need the screws to mount them. I have sourced most of them, but I still need the long ones which are used to mount the dome to the bottom case, and the ones used to mount the logic board. I was wondering if anyone could give me the sizes of these screws. Macman0512
  5. Many good strategies here. Check it out!
  6. Here is a new video I just made for you 400k floppy drive owners. A fairly easy but effective task we should all perform on these old drives. https://youtu.be/Se10T6gPl-c
  7. I finally kicked out my Apple TechStep video today. This has been long in coming. Be sure to check out the text description beneath my video on YouTube because it contains a link to a SIT file containing Disk Copy images of the two included floppies, one of which has a pretty neat HyperCard stack.
  8. I recently acquired a 'cosmetically good' PowerBook 5300ce that had some issues. I've had a few attempts to work through the symptoms using the Service Source and reading other Forum posts, but am having little success getting it up and running and would ask for any further tips you have (short of recapping etc, but appreciate that might be a cause/something needed). The seller acknowledged it had some issues when booting ('occasionally operational' eBay Link) and as such it either gets to (i) Mac Chimes of Death (4/8 chimes); (ii) Restart - Bomb ("Bus Error"?) or (iii) failing to boot (Hard D
  9. After a diskette completely jammed in the floppy drive, I was forced to pry it out with pliers. Unfortunately, such a procedure is far from delicate, and the top drive head was damaged and put out of place. (Actually, I managed to damage the head before even attempting the pliers; they were simply a last resort..) Attached are photos of its current state. Shoulda-woulda-coulda, the deed is done; is it repairable, or is it time for a replacement? I should say, the drive was never ejecting properly in the first place, even after cleaning and relubricating, as well as repl
  10. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  11. Hi everyone. I have a Macintosh classic. The battery is leaked and corroded a part of the mainboard and I'm trying to repaire it. There is three bad resistors on the under side (R88,89,90). I need to replace them, but I don't know the value of R88 and R89.I think they are both 104 ohm like R90. Can someone help to me please, what are the correct values?
  12. Hi all, Picked up a Mac Portable 5120 (non-backlit) last week; before powering it up, I removed the logic board, removed the caps from it - all of them, except the tantalum cap on the hybrid board - cleaned the board, replaced the caps, and got a new black 6v 4.5ah brick battery. Putting it all back together, it won't boot off of the battery alone - the screen flickers, and it either hangs on a flickering mouse-pointer screen, or flips over to the chimes of death. With the original Macintosh Portable power adapter and new battery connected, it will boot 90% of the time. When it fa
  13. I am starting this thread to see if there is some possibility of getting my two SE/30 motherboards repaired or replaced. In 2012, I went through my collection and realized I had two SE/30 logic boards which showed the Horizontal Lines (Simasimac) at cold boot. Those lines were stable on-screen and would display forever, meaning the SE/30 would never boot. Prior to 2012, I had recapped both boards but found they both had identical Simasimac symptoms. The two boards were recapped at different times, one being one of the very first SE/30 logic boards I ever recapped -- I used elect
  14. Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was pr
  15. I got a Classic II with assorted goodies off Craigslist for a good deal, with the only problem being the infamous leaking logic board caps. Not having a decent iron at the time, I decided to clean the board as best I could with q-tips, alcohol, and patience, just to see if the system would work at all. And it did! For a time. But when it came time to properly replace the caps, that's when it all went wrong. Pads and traces starting lifting left and right, with some traces snapping off the pads entirely. I tried different temperatures and techniques, but nothing made it better. In the end, abou
  16. I got it. I am overly pleased to say the least. by the way, did I mention I got all of this for $300? everything is in mint/brandnew condition. Everything. Zero corrosion anywhere and besides the slight yellowing, its basically brand new. The mouse and keyboard, software, and the entire macintosh and carying bag are mint. The software is still sealed and also looks brand new. The motherboard is the old one with the purple ceramic CPU. The CRT is also one I have not seen yet and has a slightly more yellow tint to the picture. There is no burn in and the screen is very bright, Brighter than my 5
  17. This Youtube playlist, https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL958FF32927823D12goes through rework procedures. The videos are professionally put together and although these videos are perhaps 30 years old, they should provide you an invaluable set of skills, approaches and best practices. I hope you find these of value. Rework & Repair Lessons 1 - 8 Videos on Rework & Repair Applications. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL958FF32927823D12 Kindest regards —Alex
  18. Hello you wonderful bunch of Mac'ians! While my my "other Mac project" is currently on-hold I dived into a PB140 restoration... initially it went quite smooth -thanks to the great videos of Ferrix97 (Grazie mille, mio eroe!)- replaced the fuse, reanimated hard-drive and recapped the screen/inverter. The last issue I have now are 2 black bars in the lower left quadrant - Does one of you brave souls have a hint for me, where to look? So far I've re-checked all caps, had a close look at the flexible flat-cables, chips and traces with a microscope, no goo or visible shorts... Thanks
  19. Hi folks. Yesterday, I finished reassembling the PM G5. It is, as you probably know, a long and tedious process. Plugged it to the outlet and immediately after that, 3 LEDs lit up: Processor A, Processor B and Trickle Power. I thought the Processors weren't aligned properly but no. It seems the PSU isn't outputting anything on the processor side... I get 0 Volts at the power bus bar, and 0V at either CPU terminals. The logic board gets power though through the connector located near the plug. The other connector (towards the front of the unit) doesn't appear to be doing anything. LED
  20. So, I was pulling out my favorite SD, my FDHD model. I haven't used it at all this month because I've been so busy with other projects. And now, an old problem I thought was gone is back. Essentially, I flip the switch and it doesn't start up right away. Rather than describe the symptoms I'll attach a dropbox link to the video of me showing it https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqydlzlqikiyyei/V_20170412_191041.mp4?dl=0 So, here are the details that are hard to see in the video. The flyblack sounds like it's clicking (not audible over speaker popping) and the hard drive spins up and down, but g
  21. Hi, I have an Apple Hard Drive 20SC. The original 5.25" drive stopped working. I decided to put in my SE's old MiniScribe drive since the mounting bracket is already drilled for that drive as well. Good news, the drive still works great after being stored for 8 months. Bad news, the rubber seal around the perimeter of the MiniScribe is getting incredibly soft and oily, like it is about to turn to sludge. Is there anything that can be done to prevent it from failing? Or if there is no saving the rubber, is it possible to replace the rubber parts on the MiniScribe? I know the qua
  22. Hi all, and thanks for existing. This forum has helped me many times repairing old stuff. I have just bought a Classic II in excellent conditisions, and the previous owner said that it smelled smoke. So without even powering it on I took it apart and started cleaning/recapping the analog and digital boards. I saw that a large leak was present in the low voltage part of the power transformer, so I ordered the new caps and cleaned it all. Also the power MOSFET was shorted, so I replaced it along with the controller and the fuse. After reassembling everything it actually started working!
  23. Hello all, I wanted to hear your thoughts on this; I recently acquired a recapped SE/30 (which as of this past weekend is now using a CF card for solid state storage and super-fast startup!) The machine is beautiful, but what has proven a mixed blessing is the damage to the plastic of the front casing that occurred during shipping (I say this because I ended up getting the machine for free via UPS shipping insurance due to the damage and an unseated ROM SIMM which caused SimasiMac) To cut to the chase: Has anyone had any experience repaired cracked or broken off plastic on thes
  24. Hi guys! I bought this Powerbook 165 on eBay for 10 quid last week, the seller already stated that it was broken but I liked the idea of having a project to repair a Powerbook. At the end I would like this to become a big guide so other people with similar problems will find it helpful. So far I found these problems: [solved] Power Adapter: At first the Powerbook won't turn on, testing the PSU with my multimeter I found that it wasn't given the correct voltage (the correct is 7.5V), a quick recap and it was up and running! (well, up and giving power). Now the Powerbook boots but I fo
  25. Trying to clean the floppy drive of a Macintosh Plus, now every time I insert a floppy it will automatically eject it. Disassembling the 800k floppy drive I realised that when I put a floppy in it, the motor doesn't spin and then the disk is ejected. Anyone know how to repair it? Any help will be appreciated.
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