Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Analog Board'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Important Information
    • The 68kMLA Forum Rules
  • Community Connections
    • General 68kMLA News & Stuff
    • Conquests
    • Trading Post
  • Projects & Hosted Forums
    • RetroChallenge
    • 68kMLA Wiki
  • 68k Model Forums
    • Compact Mac
    • Mac II, Quadra & Centris
    • 68k LC & Performa
    • 68k PowerBook
  • PowerPC Model Forums
    • NuBus Power Mac, LC & Performa
    • PCI Power Mac & Performa
    • G3/G4/G5 Power Mac, iMac & eMac
    • PPC PowerBook & iBook
  • Everything Else…
    • Apple I, ][, /// & Lisa
    • Newton
    • Software
    • Hacks & Development
    • Peripherals

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


FACEBOOK


GOOGLEPLUS


TWITTER


YOUTUBE


Location


Interests


OCCUPATION

  1. Hello everyone, I'm new to the Classic Mac refurbishment game. I'm in need of schematics for the analog sweep board p/n 630-0525. It's the US 110V version. Any help would be much appreciated! Rick
  2. Hello everyone! I don't want to quit from this project yet, I recapped each and every single capacitor on the logic board and the analog board. Replaced the two diodes (DP3, DP4) and the optocoupler as some suggested. Reflowed most of the solder joints on the back of the board and searched for broken or cold joints. No luck. The only way I'm able to increase the voltage to the minimum required to boot is using a hair dryer (shown on the video below). I tried to pinpoint the exactly location where the hot air flow is directed and it seems to be the top part where the MOSFET and some
  3. Hi! New here Was going to post this here first, but as my activation email didn't get thrue until today, I posted this already in Reddit /r/vintageMac. I came across a local ad for a Mac 512K keyboard and mouse. Reading the ad, I noticed that it actually noted "a non-working Mac 512K can also be included". This was interesting as I rarely see Macs of this vintage locally, and this was only a short distance away from me. From the photos I could see that the machine was a 120V which was interesting (living in a 220V country). Ok, I went to bought the set for less than 100$.
  4. I've been having A/V problems for some time now, I asked people on r/VintageApple and they said I should recap logic board. I already replaced all cylindrical capacitors on the analog board and a professional replaced the capacitors on the logic board, but alas, there wasn't any change, I still get this checkerboard on startup and there's no sound at all (except some occasional faint screeches). I am getting really desperate for solutions because this is a very specific problem that has not been (probably) documented yet. I really want to make my Mac Plus work again, but anything I've tried di
  5. It’s been long in coming but I finally kicked it out today. Yes, even your working order Mac 128K through the Plus can use a recap. A video INDEX is in the text description on YouTube to help you easily refer to different sections of this 1 hour video. Even if you aren't interested in a recap, check out the bad Flyback segment where it lights up in the dark!
  6. Hello from Lisbon Although this is my first post, I’ve been visiting this forum looking for clues on what might be wrong with a 1991 Macintosh Classic. I’ll try to clearly describe what happened so that owners with similar symptoms will be able to repair their Classics. I have no experience in electronics so please be patient and use a descriptive language for troubleshooting. I bought it knowing it didn’t work. The early symptoms were: No screen No disc activity No bong or any noise whatsoever Power cable was working I proceeded to remove the rear cover and notice
  7. Below are 2 photos of AC line filter "LF2" from two different Macintosh 128k~Plus Analog Boards. The newest board is stamped 4192 (1986 PCB), which I assume means 42nd week of 1992, and uses the LF2 without the green Earth wire. The other PCB is a 1983-84 version stamped 0792, which I assume means 7th week of 1992, and you can see it has the green earth wire wound inside LF2. Indeed, most every Analog Board I've seen has the Earth wire wound in LF2. Why do you think the green Earth ground wire was not wound into LF2 on the 4192 board? By the way, the 3-pi
  8. I tend to swap out the electrolytics in a recap and leave the film or metalized paper caps alone if they are good. Some among us have experienced blown filter caps near the power input on the original Macintosh analog boards, specifically these Rifa caps: C33: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C37: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C38: 0.1uF 250V Minibox The stock Rifa caps all appear to be metalized paper capacitors. A directed replacement for C33 and C37 would be the KEMET PME271YA4470MR30, also metalized paper. But
  9. Hello! I've decided to recap the analog boards in my Macintosh SE and SE/30 and now I need to buy the caps and I'm wondering a few things: - which company should I buy the caps from (there's quite a lot of different companies and I don't really know which ones to buy)? - should the max operating temperature be 105 C or is 85 C enough, considering that the SE and the SE/30 have a fan? - is it okay to buy the caps from AliExperss (I know that Mouser is generally the best for capacitor purchases, but the shipping is quite expensive, because I'm located in a smaller co
  10. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  11. Hi all, I was recapping an SE's Rev A analog board and found a diode soldered between CR4 and a resistor I can't see the designation of, and a capacitor between that diode and R26. Is that a modification to basically mod it into a Rev B? Can anyone shed some light on to what this does exactly? Thanks, Mingo.
  12. I have an analog board of a Classic II that shows a single horizontal line on the screen. I replaced the TEA2037A but that did not change anything. With another analog board, the Mac works. What else can influence the vertical deflection?
  13. I have two classic analog boards that show 0 volt at the floppy port. I measured the volts at cp22 and one had 45 Volts, the other had 0 volt. At a functioning board I measured 90 volts, but I read in another thread that there should be 300 volts. Anay ideas, where I can find the defect part?
  14. Hi everyone So I have something that wouldn't really be considered unusual a very sick Macintosh Plus I have yet to see it boot or do anything else than try and kill it's self. I bought this Macintosh Plus off a Friend who had more money than sense and he bought it from Canada and had shipped here to Ireland, sadly he thought it would be a simple plug and play and he never heard of a step down converter. when he plugged straight in the Irish 250V socked it blow the crap out of it and he said it just popped. So 2 months later he offered it to me because he bought a UK one instead and I got
  15. Hey everyone, I've got a fully-restored SE/30 that is giving me screen issues. It's the one from this thread: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/30045-full-recap-of-my-new-se30-with-many-pictures/ I've attached a video of the screen issue I'm having (can upload to YouTube if the attachment is an issue for you guys). The screen twitches intermittently. A nice sharp slap to the side of the machine makes it go away for a while. Here's what has been done to the analog board so far: -Full recap of all electrolytics -C15 replaced with film capacitor -Yoke connector resolder
  16. Hi, I'm a vintage macs loving and I'm very proud of fix a lot of 8 different classic macs (reading the great books of Larry Pina!!!). I have skills in soldering and I'm learning about electronics by practice. Until now, I have a high degree of success!! until now. I'm the owner of a 512Ke that shows a lot of tiny vertical lines at startup. There's sound, no friendly bong, just something like "grrrrr" no matter. I try to fix it and I saw my first surprise. It has a macsnap 3 memory and scsi expansión cards. The scsi card was free inside the box, no attached to the roms socket.I atached the
  17. From the album: Macintosh SE/30

    Solder-side view of the SE/30 analog board. The capacitors have been removed and the pads cleaned up, waiting for the new caps to arrive from Digi-Key.
  18. From the album: Macintosh SE/30

    All capacitors have been removed from the analog board and is now ready for the replacements to be installed. Copious amounts of electrolytic fluid has been cleansed from the board. The pots were sprayed out with contact cleaner, and exercised back and forth full-stop. Additionally, the (very noisy) fan has been replaced with a Nanoxia Deep Silence 60mm fan, NDS60-2000.
  19. I am in the process of tearing down my iMac G3 with the purpose of shipping out the motherboard, analog board, and PSU for recapping. I was able to get the motherboard and PSU out after a good deal of effort, and was just starting the final push to remove the analog board. I was able to remove all of the connectors except for the red pair of wires connecting the screen and focus control to the CRT board (shown between my thumb and forefinger in the below imgur album): http://imgur.com/a/bBdN6 I can't seem to find any way that these wires can be disconnected from the screen/focus control
  20. From the album: Macintosh SE/30

    https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28383-se30-se-analog-board-damage/ Resistor (R29, 2W, 12Ohms 5%) Linear Voltage Regulator (U3, 7905 -5V 1A)
  21. From the album: Macintosh SE/30

    https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28383-se30-se-analog-board-damage/ Resistor (R29, 2W, 12Ohms 5%) Linear Voltage Regulator (U3, 7905 -5V 1A)
  22. From the album: Macintosh SE/30

    https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28383-se30-se-analog-board-damage/
×
×
  • Create New...