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Everything posted by MacJunky

  1. I did not look at dates, but my 1400c has dual batts while the 1400cs only has one. Am I reading correctly that you are seeing the same thing?
  2. With a 9.0 CD you *should* be able to install the 9.1 update. The exceptions being specific language related IIRC. Try it.
  3. A 1400 should take 9.1 by default. If the installer is not working you might need to check what the localization is, etc. You might do a bit of googling about this if you want 9.2.2: http://eshop.macsales.com/OSXCenter/OS9Helper/Framework.cfm?topic=32 *Edit Oh, looks like it might be a bit more work http://web.archive.org/web/20120204045426/http://www.os9forever.com/Compatibility.html So basically, if you want OS 9, just get 9.1 installed and leave it at that.
  4. Tossing some spare sockets on the free ends of the headers to hold them straight during soldering should help.
  5. I might be remembering incorrectly, but I was under the impression from some random website that the dual slot boards were the ones that took DOS cards or something. YMMV I do know that my Performa 580 board has two RAM slots and my LC 630 has only one.
  6. One board/chip for ROM, one for hotflashable RAMdisk?
  7. This is a board you could just saw in half for compatibility, is it not? As someone with a plus I am interested in seeing this project develop.
  8. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_spreader "A heat spreader is a heat exchanger that moves heat between a heat source, and a secondary heat exchanger whose surface area and geometry are more favorable than the source." http://www.thermacore.com/products/heat-spreaders.aspx "Heat spreaders let you move heat from within enclosures, where space may be at a premium, to areas with a larger cross-sectional area, surface area and/or volume and a lower heat flux." If you want to get nitpicky, "heat spreaders" you find on RAM are not fitting of that designation unless they are used in this f
  9. Just so we are on the same page, you are talking about removing the black disc, right? Black disk being the heat spreader held against the CPU die by a square plastic piece around the whole CPU package. Then the big metal plate under the keyboard is the heatsink. On the underside of the black disc I forget what Apple used most commonly, and I would check mine but I am quite certain I squirted some thermal compound under the heatspreaders of my daughtercards after cleaning them out however many years ago. Normally I would want to refer to the disk as an IHS(integrated heat spreader, like what
  10. A few years ago I pulled my PDQ out and the fan had started running constantly. I unplugged it. Perhaps because I live in Canada or not, I have never heard the fan come on under any load and I had actually tried using it on soft surfaces at some point in the past. The fan in my Lombard also ran constantly. IDK what was up though it had other issues to begin with. Do I remember there actually being thermal compound in the WS/PDQ, Lombard, and TL iMac? Between the CPU die and heatspreader I mean..(the black disk on the CPU) Or was that a little metal shim with an equally thin thermal pad
  11. Internet says 18.5v for 2009 models and earlier, is that right? If both PSUs put out the same voltage but one is lower wattage, then you are talking less current. As long as you do not trip the PSU's overcurrent protection it should work for testing purposes. If anything is going to die it would be the PSU, unless it failed and killed the mini as well. A good PSU should be less likely to kill things attached to it when it goes pop. If anything at all, the mini might *might* be smart enough to throttle itself when used with a lower wattage PSU like IIRC some ancient ThinkPads have been kno
  12. That is really sad. I used to push four hours with my (very cheap low end model from 2009 keep in mind) HP DV4-1225DX while internetting on a new high capacity battery, and that had a terribly wasteful AMD CPU. IDK what my Thinkpad T510(from 2010 or something mind you) would do with a new battery and I never actually got around to timing the life of it's worn one but I am pretty sure I am still getting around four hours with the same sort of use as DV4. (both using the same Intel 330 240GB SSD and Intel 7260 AC wifi card) Of course DV4's batt started taking a turn for the worse when I replaced
  13. Well, about the thermal compound, I personally have a preference for IC Diamond. Even more so when it is going to be in use for a long time since it resists pump-out. However ICD is likely overkill for a PB. For anything like old notebooks that I care less about or something I am likely to take apart frequently I am still working on a massive tube of AC MX-2 that I got on sale some years ago. It is only my highest-use and fastest computers that I demand better. and TBH "better" might be as low as 1C until that lesser compound pumps out and/or dries up needing replacement. But then I am not eve
  14. I am not sure how hot MDDs normally run but have you made sure the fan you installed was pointing in the correct direction for the MDD case?(and not just the same direction as the previous aftermarket fan was installed) Also, have you checked any other fans to ensure someone did not screw around with them as well?(again, IDK how many fans a MD actually has) At the end of the day though most of Apple's cases are not really known for good airflow. To test your heatsink theory you could close the case and rest the whole thing on it's side, but unless someone altered the mounting hardwar
  15. According to a quick google, DOOM II requires 256 colours and 68LC040 above your setup. http://www.allgame.com/game.php?id=532&tab=sysreqs But you can always try the Shareware MacDoom in the non-DOS section: http://www.doomworld.com/classicdoom/info/shareware.php Apparently Ultimate DOOM requires PPC and colour http://www.allgame.com/game.php?id=13644&tab=sysreqs
  16. All the information you need for flashing the 7800GS or X1900XT is all online. Make sure to backup the original ROMs first! I have not looked at info for either of these cards in a long while but I would bet flashing them in a PC would be easiest.
  17. Please re-read the thread, or perhaps check a search engine. It is very doable.
  18. Purple. A nice professional yet slightly stand-out type shade. It is a little flare of colour, yet nice and dark to maintain a clean look. I am not sure how to describe it better tbh. Orange is good for something nice and bright though.
  19. You mean on just one side? Try a hacksaw, it is just aluminum is it not? Make sure you stick a fan on the heatsink afterward though. If you do cut it, make sure you look at it from the side once mounted to check for gaps between the die itself and the contact area of the heatsink. It is okay if the spacer around the die is not making contact, that just helps prevent the die from being crushed if the heatsink is not sitting flat.
  20. I would really suggest drilling some holes in the motherboard tray of your case. To save the hassle of tapping holes, you can stick nuts on the back of standoffs. If you are using a drill rather than a drill press, your holes are not going to be the right size, shape, or location anyway. Brass standoffs secured by nuts will offer a little leeway in the slightly larger than desired holes. On a side note I have been playing with my Sawtooth board and a 800MHz Quicksilver CPU card. I can only get the FSB up to 120MHz so at the 8x multi I am stuck at 960MHz. Cinebench crashed on the first run
  21. Just as a general reference for anyone interested in G4 towers: http://www.outofspec.com/frankenmac/wire.shtml Also, perhaps you want to toss in a PATA or SATA card to regain ports lost? As far as removing the connector some would snip, some would pull the black plastic off and desolder the individual pins, some would heatgun the whole thing. It depends what tools&experience you have and what you feel comfortable with.
  22. The issue is that the ATA connector is in the way of the wide CPU card itself. The QS heatsink is a different issue and would normally interfere with the CD/ZIP bays in a Sawtooth/GBE case. For the purpose of this conversation, Sawtooth and Gigabit Ethernet are effectively the same as far as I recall. 12v to the additional mounting hole of QS modules is correct. I am not aware of a firmware modification that actually OCs the bus, but it has been a long time. You can add a DIP switch to a spot near the RAM (visible in my pic) but at least with the Sawtooth, idk about GBE, you are not l
  23. I used to cut smt capacitors with side cutters until I tried twisting. Now I am happy enough grabbing the top with some pliers and twisting while maintaining down-force, keeping the cap centred in it's plastic bottom. It seems to be faster than these videos of people pulling&wiggling, as well as faster than cutting too. I know a lot of people hate uniserver for suggesting this method but it really does work.
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