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joshc

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Everything posted by joshc

  1. I would say at this stage you should seek a replacement flyback, the best place to find one is from a spare analog board - they come up on eBay now and again.
  2. Capacitors can start leaking but still work for some time, and this capacitor leakage can start to damage the board. I've had several boards which visually look great, and even work, but when I removed the capacitors they had started to leak. I would say it's best to take preventative measures at this point, with any pre-1997 machines. Capacitors are cheap enough if you're just doing a couple of boards, and could prevent substantial logic board repairs.
  3. I acquired a Classic about a week ago for a good price, but I didn't know the condition of it, I was just hoping it would be an easy recap job... I opened up the case to be greeted by a half rusted chassis and a Maxell battery explosion on the logic board. So I quickly set to work trying to undo the mess created by the battery acid. The chassis is half destroyed, the side closest to the battery has suffered badly, it even has holes in it. The first challenge was to remove the logic board from the chassis, but this proved difficult
  4. Welcome, and well done on purchasing the period correct keyboard for this model too.
  5. I have started the process, I will start a restoration thread in due course. So far it's looking like ~10 traces are damaged. This is a multi layer board so I'm not massively hopeful for it to be honest.
  6. Not an LC/Performa but a Classic...I finally get to join the club, my first Maxell explosion...what do I win?
  7. I would highly recommend a Floppy Emu, mine has been invaluable.
  8. Very clean example, what are your plans for it? Do you have a HD-20 to use with it?
  9. Not much turning up I'm afraid. From here: https://archive.org/details/macworld00unse_88/page/40/mode/2up?q="Transwarp+6400"
  10. There are a number of reasons these sorts of features (fast CPUs, lots of RAM) are not that desirable on a 68k Mac. You can run 68k software on PPC Macs, usually without a hitch, and if you have a PPC Mac, it will be more than fast enough for that software, and it will have enough RAM already. Also, Apple made enough 68k-based models that there are enough to choose from if you want a well equipped system, for example an SE/30, a later II series or a Quadra. As mentioned, a couple of people have cloned either Daystar or DiiMO accelerators. For me, that is enough really, and those are prove
  11. Yes to IPA and swabs, and ideally an anti-static brush but a toothbrush tends to be OK too. I tend to do an IPA soak as well after scrubbing and then leave to dry fully for a couple of days, and then hit it with hot air/compressed air to make sure it's completely dry.
  12. This is awesome, so much nicer than the bodge jobs you often see when compacts are converted with newer internals but at the detriment of the original case. Very impressive indeed and the result looks great!
  13. As others have said, flyback replacements are expensive and hard to come by. The best way is to find a used, good condition analog board and pick the flyback off that (or just replace the board entirely if the replacement board works ok). As has already been pointed out, look out for a flyback with a light-coloured seal (the original colour was yellow), darker colour indicates the flyback was used a lot.
  14. Firstly, welcome to the forum. Secondly, well done on acquiring this - I was also watching this one on eBay and was close to bidding. Black dirt in these is common, it just means it was turned on for long periods and has never been cleaned, it was possibly used in a factory/workshop. Have you reseated all the components on the analog board? If the video board on the CRT neck is loose/not seated correctly, that will also result in no video.
  15. The 8200 is relatively 'rare' - a model only sold in Europe. For me, that is reason enough to not scrap it. This could well be a PSU or logic board issue I think, the PSUs in these are unreliable at best (the one in mine blew up). An ATX conversion is easy enough to do. If you can't get it working, I'm sure someone in London will be happy to take it off your hands (unfortunately not me, a single encounter with a 8200 was enough for me).
  16. Thanks for the tip, do you know which SIMMs are compatible? If I search on eBay most of the SIMMs that come up are the LC/Quadra VRAM ones.
  17. It does look pretty clean, but those look like the stock capacitors - so I would still recommend replacing those. There could be trace damage underneath the battery holder too. Definitely looks saveable though, so worth keeping this one! I'm afraid I don't recap other people's boards, but there might be a fellow forum member closer to you who will.
  18. I think mine has the Apple Macintosh Display Card 630-0400 , it looks like this (two empty slots which I assume are for additional VRAM). I know very little about it, I haven't spent much time researching or using my IIfx yet. The photo of the screen I posted earlier is from a 15" Sharp LCD I am using with it, 640x480 res.
  19. The IIfx really sticks out there among the sea of generic PC stuff...
  20. I haven't done a massive amount with the IIx/fx yet. I have just upgraded the memory (added 64MB, up from 8MB, and I kept an existing 4MB bank in there). I have also replaced the stock ROM with a BMOW 2MB ROM that contains a bootable ROM disk and HD-20 support.
  21. I only just got around to installing the 64MB RAM today... And I can confirm it works perfectly! I removed the existing 4 x 1MB SIMMs in Bank A, and replaced them with the new SIMMs, keeping the other 4 x 1MB SIMMs in Bank B. Success... Now, what to do with all this memory...
  22. First of all, welcome to the 68kMLA community and congrats on acquiring an SE/30, a fine machine! The leaking PRAM battery won't have helped, but your SE/30 board will need recapping (replacing the original electrolytic surface mount capacitors). Leaking capacitors/bad traces is most likely the cause of the zebra stripes. You can either: 1) Try to learn how to repair it yourself (with the help of members here), or 2) Send it to someone to repair - there are various people on the forums that may be able to assist with this. If you can show us high quality photos of
  23. If you want a very capable 68k Mac, and if color support is essential for whatever you are intending to do with it, I would opt for an LC 475. If the compact form factor is a must, I'd say an SE/30 is the way to go for sure.
  24. Sorry, I was referring to logic boards. Yes, power supplies are more prone to capacitor failure generally because of exposure to high temperatures.
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