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About joshc

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    Berkshire, UK

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  1. Mac OS 8.5 was the release where things were sped up a bit and most of the 68k code was replaced with native code for the PowerPC, so you may want to try 8.6. However my experience using OS 8 is limited, so it will be interesting to see what others think is the ideal OS for a 1400.
  2. I managed to crack mine open with a screwdriver earlier today, only caused minimal damage to the casing which I'm fine with... Mine is the "Low Power" version which outputs 15W I believe... it only has 4 electrolytic capacitors! I think other versions have more and use those "long-life" ELNA capacitors. The board is marked ADP-17AP and it was manufactured by DELTA. There are 4 caps on this version: C1 - 47uF 400V C4 - 22uf 50V C302 - 1000uf 16V C304 - 47uf 25V All rated 105 C.
  3. Great find, I sort of want one of these actually, if for no other reason that I've never owned one. Good luck with it
  4. There's lot of cool things in this picture (besides the Apple III of course) - you have one of those Apple dealer posters from ~1978/1979 or so I think? Your SE looks very close to its original colour, did you retrobright it? Is that a Kensington system saver or a different fan? Do you have any more photos to share of your space (even if its cluttered, it would be really interesting to see). Sorry for all the questions
  5. In terms of the trackball issue, in the mean time do you have an ADB mouse you could try plugging into the ADB port?
  6. I recently picked up a PowerBook 180, I haven't begun the restoration yet but I may be able to help. Mine displays different symptoms to yours, but I think the solution may help both of us. With mine, it seems the power adapter is not outputting enough power for the system to operate correctly. At boot, I get a chime, bright screen and flashing floppy, but as soon as I try to use the floppy drive, the screen flickers and the computer shuts off after a second or so - this is probably because the power adapter needs recapping. Unfortunately, the power adapter is a 'sealed
  7. Any left-over electrolytic capacitor leakage on ICs, not just the Egret, will cause issues. But yes, the Egret is a critical component and you will not get a successful boot unless it works. You can remove the Egret to completely clean underneath it and clean the pads and then solder it back on, just be careful with hot air as it's easy to cause damage to the board if not done correctly (as I did with one of my spare boards...). There could be broken traces to repair on the logic board, take a good close look at all the traces to check for breaks, use a multimeter to te
  8. What happened with this? Did you have any luck after cleaning the EGRET?
  9. Wow, great haul. I used to have a NeXTstation with the MegaPixel Display - great machine, even better if you can get it properly configured and on a network like it should be. Looking forward to the project thread for this one.
  10. True, my point was mostly about addressing the issue of slow responsiveness in menus etc which the OS should help with, System 6 also boots very fast (even from floppy) whereas System 7 does not. But yes let's just say that the LC/LC II/Color Classic cater very well for the user seeking a leisurely computing experience.
  11. Fingers crossed! Doesn't she know that history is being made here? or...dug up... anyway, you get my point Very excited about this project, let's hope you are as close as you think you are.
  12. Is the same true if you use 6.0.8L on those systems instead though? I know that's not an option for a Color Classic but for the LC and LC II I believe System 6 should be a lot quicker.
  13. I would say at this stage you should seek a replacement flyback, the best place to find one is from a spare analog board - they come up on eBay now and again.
  14. Capacitors can start leaking but still work for some time, and this capacitor leakage can start to damage the board. I've had several boards which visually look great, and even work, but when I removed the capacitors they had started to leak. I would say it's best to take preventative measures at this point, with any pre-1997 machines. Capacitors are cheap enough if you're just doing a couple of boards, and could prevent substantial logic board repairs.
  15. I acquired a Classic about a week ago for a good price, but I didn't know the condition of it, I was just hoping it would be an easy recap job... I opened up the case to be greeted by a half rusted chassis and a Maxell battery explosion on the logic board. So I quickly set to work trying to undo the mess created by the battery acid. The chassis is half destroyed, the side closest to the battery has suffered badly, it even has holes in it. The first challenge was to remove the logic board from the chassis, but this proved difficult
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