Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Byrd

  1. Hi, Best (new) RAM is from OWC; https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/30PS16MB/ Keep in mind buying elsewhere the height of the RAM - some tall modules don't fit in the cramped chassis - I've an SE/30 with 80MB (64MB "tall" + 16MB "short" to fit in front)
  2. @fstark Absolutely fantastic - now with sound, we have the killer "show off" app so show all our friends! I'd love the "Bad Apple" demo with sound, but I'm sure I can encode my own eventually.
  3. No software solutions - have you given the drive internals a bit of a spring clean? It might free up the mechanism. With the right Torx bit you remove three screws from underneath, reach in fold out the keyboard on the palm reset, where you'll see the floppy drive ribbon that can be freed.
  4. @beachycove Thanks for the additional info, much appreciated. Agree that the sloshing may not just indicate low coolant; I'll be interested in seeing what crud comes out. Sounds like it's a case of "do it properly" then make some minor improvements in tubing, coolants and double check all so that when servicing is required in a couple of years it won't be as arduous. Obviously wasn't hoping for that and was feeling lazy Thanks JB
  5. Hi all, I've a never serviced before Quad G5 - single pump revision 1 "Delphi" unit. It's been a long time since I fired it up, I recall it ran OK but best with the G5 laying on it's side, which to me suggested low coolant. I've pulled the water cooling unit, and can hear coolant sloshing around inside. It is not leaking - there is no evidence of any wear or corrosion, it is spotless. It may have been an Apple recalled unit? To avoid complete disassembly I'm tempted just to clamp on some longer tubing and flush the coolant, or at least see what comes out. Repasting
  6. It was the simplest video I could find; it almost looks too easy and perhaps on wider pitched flex cable it really isn’t that hard to do. Results will vary on thinner flex cable and how well you reinforce it after the repair (some sort of thin hard plastic sleeve taped down would help)
  7. Somewhere back in this forum is a way to reposition resistors on a 5500/6500 board to make it do the TAM chime
  8. No, you can disconnect the floppy ribbon cable with no ill effect
  9. To save you some hours of frustration, I'd say don't bother splicing cable unless you are particularly good with soldering. By the time you sand back, cut and splice wires on ... you run out of space, the wires break, you have to sand back more copper - really not fun. As the tear is not on a 90 degree join and the wiring straight not bent, I'd try this method, if you have nothing to lose. Flux, good solder and superglue to hold it down is your friend.
  10. Hi BishioBlougram, Odd error but have come across it a couple of times - in PowerBooks - it usually suggests the drive mechanism itself is caught/not fully engaged thinking a disk is installed when in fact it isn't, or a sensor/switch is dirty. Long story is yes cleaning the drive should help, but the mechanism might be gummed up causing the issues. I'd try the compressed air, tweezers to remove any dust, ultimately though it might need to be pulled out and inspected. Good thing is it works JB
  11. Hi Garrett, Have you a close up of the severed cable? Shame the tear is not in a straight line you can sand back the coating to expose copper, flux and resolder for a decent join. On a corner such as this, yes fine wire resolder onto each pin is possible, but you need wide and consistent spacing on the traces to make it a success. I recently tried to recover a torn flex cable on an IBM Thinkpad 860 - which had wiring of varied widths and distance - and failed.
  12. Nice work! One of my friends owned an iBook G3 and used to use it with the palmrest clamped down on a desk between two blocks of wood. Not exactly portable
  13. Hi, your ghosting is minor and not unexpected for a CRT that's probably had thousands of hours of use. Focusing on the CRT itself (recapping of other components aside), the slight imperfection may be due to something like movement of the magnets, yoke coil - again something you don't want to tamper with noting how good the display already presents. CRT image display is never perfect and most Apple 9" displays have deep burn in or other issues, so you're ahead. You're not nearly close to the issue in the other thread you found. You've picked up a good unit
  14. Hi all, I've finally resurrected my Mac IIsi, with a full recap and PSU recap/rebuild - it's working well and a nice Mac. The momentary power switch on the back is faulty - this is the one you twist in for power when plugged in, or twisted out to let keyboard soft power do its job. With mine twisted in or out, it remains in contact and most of the time powers up - if I get the position of the switch just right I can get back to soft power, but not reliably. I think it's the same switch as found in Mac IIci, Quadra 700 machines. Would anyone have a suggesti
  15. The LaserWriter I/O board should slide right out for visual inspection of the caps. But yes I'd do a clean of everything before pulling out the soldering iron; there are lots of common parts to a laser printed, slide out what you can and clean with isopropyl alcohol wipes (using something like a soft hair brush to dislodge any crud) - things like rollers, trays, cartridges. laserwriter_ii.pdf
  16. @xunker @dcr Yes, same method here - a hit or drop of the palm rest onto a towel ~ 5cm has resurrected mine. I've got this PowerBook 170 with 120MB HD (IBM branded I think) I need to do this on, and so far no concerns but I'm sure the HD doesn't like it.
  17. A video card like a Mac Rage 128, Radeon 7000 Mac Edition would work well, but usually at the expense of the onboard video not being well supported, and not accelerated, by running ATI's later drivers. Alternately, consider a 3DFX Voodoo 2 card for pure gaming. The 6400 is upgraded to a G3 via the level 2 (L2) cache slot, ranging from 250 - 500Mhz speeds. The faster cards are highly expensive and sought after, but the lesser speeds can be picked up relatively cheaply and will give it a huge boost - there isn't much real world difference between 300 vs 500Mhz. You will get a big
  18. Don't be surprised when you go to spin up your 2.5" drive, it struggles. This is usually common if you haven't used it for a few months; some gentle percussive maintenance on the palm reset usually frees things up. I've found 2.5" SCSI drives to be fairly reliable though, even with giving them a gentle thump, apart from the really early Connor 20/40 MB ones used in earlier PowerBook models.
  19. Ghosting and drifting of the CRT image is to be expected in a 34 year old computer. Recapping of the analog board, power supply may result in a slightly improved and more stable image (in my case it made it brighter, however there remains some very mild "noise" at times). The CRT brightness knob is quite broad in its range, what you have described when adjusting brightness is normal. The brightness pot could be cleaned with electronic solvent cleaner spray if keen. There are also programs to calibrate and measure the display, adjust focus with the back of the SE off, but I wouldn't conside
  20. Caps. You know it, sad to say. LaserWriters also needed a decent clean regularly of rollers etc. for reliable use.
  21. It came like that from the factory - not unheard of for PCBs to have
  22. They look intact, a hard break of a millimetre of two would be grounds for suspecting something is up, but everything works by all appearances so you're good.
  23. Everything works? I think it's a fair call to not give the seller a hard time - it works, and I wouldn't expect a detailed breakdown of components from any old Mac bought unless it was given a deep overhaul and indicated as such. The traces appear to be largely intact - you could test for continuity yourself. Rubbing old traces firmly with a cotton bud can damage them, a very gentle wipe down or dusting is usually enough and you can use clear nail varnish to protect the fragile traces if particularly concerned. SEs are one of the more rugged early Apple machines, what you have
  24. For day to day use, System 7.01 isn't massively different in look and feel over 7.1 (many wondered why Apple charged for 7.1 when released!). However, the bane of many "early" accelerators was Sound Manager 3.0 (as found in the System 7.1 System Update 3.0) which didn't play nicely with audio on many accelerated Macs - perhaps why some vendors gave up supporting anything above 6.08 and 7.01.
  25. I've come across half a dozen in various SEs over the years. Super nice quality for the time, but you'd assume third party. In dual floppy SEs you bolted it above the floppy cage with a sliding tray to fit in a half or standard height SCSI HD with ease - screw in the side to wedge it into place. You didn't need to have the HD in where it usually would go.
  • Create New...