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  1. If you actually have a hot air rework station, the risk you run using it over dual soldering irons is considerably lower. Emphasis on the "rework station" part; the kind of heat gun you find at the hardware store isn't really optimal for this kind of work. Heating and lifting each side of the cap as shown in the second video is very likely to lift the pads on a board as corroded as yours. Also, to answer your question about cleaning the board: my personal preference is to fill a plastic tub with tap water and dish soap, put the board in, gently scrub with a toothbrush, and rinse th
  2. "Twist and Push" method is just grabbing the capacitor can with a pair of needle-nose pliers, pushing down, and twisting it a little bit back and forth until the leads inside the can fatigue and break. If the plastic base of the cap is left behind, remove it with tweezers. You'll also have to desolder what remains of the leads from the board. The "two soldering irons" method isn't the worst, but it's definitely not the safest either. Bear in mind that excessive heat can lift pads very easily.
  3. Grasping at straws here: In your recapping thread for this card, you posted a picture of the card after corrosion was removed w/ vinegar. That picture showed the component labeled SOMC1603, a resistor pack, and it appears that several signals going to the floppy port go through that component. Many of the solder joints on the resistor pack look dull/crusty; perhaps a bad connection on it is causing this problem?
  4. If it still boots I highly doubt you've messed up the board. Pictures of the board will help if you want to verify everything is soldered right.
  5. If the traces for the negative sides aren't completely gone, follow them back until you find somewhere to solder a jumper wire. Otherwise, look for the schematics and use them to find a place for the wire.
  6. As far as logic boards are concerned I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter. I've used both types on boards of mine and have never had problems. Looks like corrosion, vinegar may help. Best not to leave it on there.
  7. The chances of you finding a bad cap connection on the logic board are slim to none since the 650 uses tantalum caps. Like @jeremywork said, the green hue is almost certainly because the Centris is outputting SoG (Sync-on-green), so you need to find a monitor/adapter combo that doesn't have this problem.
  8. If the fuse was blown it wouldn't even be able to intermittently recognize the keyboard/mouse. More likely is that the capacitors on your logic board need to be replaced, especially if the Classic's making whistling noises. There are a few between the ADB port and the MCU for the keyboard/mouse that could've caused damage.
  9. To rule out the obvious: have you tried swapping the IWM with a known good chip, is the drive ribbon cable known to be good, and is the disk used known to be good? Very bizarre problem for sure, I'll get my good SE 800k board and take some measurements to compare against your boards.
  10. There was similar stuff on the underside of the board in my LC II when I got it. No idea what it is, perhaps something leftover from manufacturing, but thankfully it seems to be harmless. In the meantime, it would still be a good idea to get rid of the caps and clean up the board to stop the corrosion. I have heard lots of great things about the FX-951, but I don't think it would be much more useful for 68k recapping compared to the FX-888D. The main improvement the 951 has over the 888 is that the heating element is part of the tip, which gives you better thermal recovery (an
  11. As far as I can tell, your P450 description sounds normal. Nothing is shorting VCC straight to ground. I'm still suspicious of the power supply; try taking out everything unnecessary but leave the FPU in and see if that changes anything, e.g. remove RAM/VRAM SIMMs, SCSI2SD, keyboard, etc.
  12. Checked the schematic, the references for the tantalums that are bypass caps for the FPU are C100 and C121. If they were actually shorted, though, you would read a short across VCC and GND whether or not the PSU was plugged in (unless I'm very much mistaken). By what method did you find there was a short? Type of multimeter, mode you're using, etc? Pictures of both sides of the board, especially around the FPU, will be helpful.
  13. Have you tried swapping the P460 power supply into the P450 to see if it makes any difference? There are some tantalum caps on the flip side of the board from the FPU, almost certainly used for decoupling. I seriously doubt they've failed, but when they do, they fail shorted.
  14. If you're having sound troubles, all of the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced. Replace those on the logic board and in the power supply, and clean the logic board well. If a bypass cap for the FPU was shorted, the system probably wouldn't turn on even without the FPU. Since you mention there's a short between VCC and GND with the FPU installed, it's also possible that the FPU is dead.
  15. I bought the 700MHz 12" version of this 4-5 years ago and it smelled pretty awful; buying a new keyboard and letting the iBook air out until it arrived solved that problem. It is definitely the keyboard that produces the smell but I'm not sure how you tell the stinky ones apart from the rest. Sadly the GPU died about a year ago, a shame since otherwise it was a fast, durable OS 9 computer. Just wondering, has anybody experienced GPU issues on their iBook and tried fixing it? Interested in possible solutions.
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