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Everything posted by lumpydog

  1. JDW: Nice work! I saw your pictures and your mac/parts/pieces look fantastic! I've been away from these forums for the summer and was glad to return and see you had given it a try. The results are truly worth the effort. Thanks for taking the time to post about your experiences.. Lumpy
  2. It made me smile. The artist clearly put some effort into it - I think it's great. Nice work and thanks for sharing it here.
  3. Mac128: I will update the original post with the information on the potential corrosive effects to steel logo/stickers and I will also note the sources of cheaper H202! With regard to large items and conserving H202 solution: Great minds think alike! I actually filled two Arizona Ice Tea containers (the large ones) with water and squeezed them a little before sealing them to make them a tiny bit narrower... Two of these containers fit into the rear bucket of a compact mac and decrease the volume of water needed to fill the tub to fully submerge the bucket! Lumpy
  4. You really have to try it to see how effective it is. My mouse was my first test and it had yellow spots and unven yellowing. It was a mess. I went out at the end of the day to retreive it from the solution and could not believe the result. I tried my HD20 case then next day - it was really badly yellowed - also unevenly. Six hours later - and I have a uniform beige case - looks brand new. What interests me is how the process does not leave you with a uniform "lightening" effect, with all the uneven markings still there - rather, it seems to remove JUST the yellow and leave behind the
  5. All: I started a discussion on de-yellowing compact Mac plastics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8794 which was about my adventures in reviving and restoring an eBay-purchased 512K Mac. There has been enough discussion about de-yellowing in that thread that I thought I would start a new/separate topic on the subject of de-yellowing Apple compact Mac plastics - in my case, a 512K and a 512Ke (and associated peripherals). Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), Water, Oxi-Clean and Sun/UV light, I have been able to reverse the yellowing effects of UV light. My efforts stem from what I
  6. JDW: I will give that a try. To my eye, the spacebar looks identical to the rest! Pictures once I get a free moment and some daylight. None of he other keys were washed. The surrounding beige plastic was. Lumpy
  7. Man... the guys on that thread are really frying there stuff.... 30%+ H202 concentration is what they are using if I follow correctly. I put my spacebar in the 1.5 to 3% percent concentration solution for the 5th time yesterday (along with my 2nd HD20's case - which I just purchased). The spacebar finally looks like the rest of the keys. See pictures here (navigate through the series of pictures using the thumbnails to the right): http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/sets/72157614991289408/ I took a bunch of pictures because the flash/lighting can have different effects on the r
  8. Man - you guys are sticklers! Ok - here goes.... The mouse label was NOT affected when I posted that feedback in this thread. I just double checked. I can post pics tomorrow of the mouse label if it would help. I also just checked the serial number of the compact Mac cases and found them to NOT have a halo any more - so my theory is that they dry out (the last time I looked - fairly soon after dunking - they both had a halo...). So that debunks my theory that Dan's eBay Mac was dunked... unless those pics were taken soon after (before the labels dried out). We may never know - unless Dan s
  9. Mac128: Duly noted and I should have mentioned that my comment on Dan's eBay auction was only speculation - primarily because that is one seriously clean Mac! Lumpy P.S. You'll notice in my pictures that I was not able to fully rid the space bar of its discoloration - as mentioned, the harder plastic does not let go of its yellow color as easily as the rest of the Mac plastics. Also - the 303 Protectant does not leave the case looking glossy like that..
  10. JDW: Interesting stuff - I went to look at the bottle that my H202 came in. It does say the following: 1) "Topical Solution USP" 2) Where the percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is diclosed, it is followed by "(Stabilized)" Despite my lack of knowledge with regard to how to read/interpret labels on H202 bottles, the stuff I used worked just fine and did not attack or degrade the plastics in any way that I can see. I do agree that you should experiment with plastics that are less valuable to you... I started with my mouse - knowing I could repleace it fairly cheaply on eBay.
  11. Right you are! Thanks for catching that. I have one M0001W and one M0001E. The purchases of these different model numbers was purposeful, and I'd like to complete the collection of the first three models with a 128K M0001 model - maybe adde a Plus to mess around with programs that require more memory. To be honest, I get the most enjoyment out of getting them up and running - and then restoring them. Unlike my first two purchases, any additions will likely be broken units. I have an original HD20 Init disk and intend to use it to work the M0001W. I resurected my father's Pow
  12. JDW - I too am disappointed that you can't find the right ingredients - I've been looking forward to having someone else here try it out and share their results. I just took delivery of a second HD20 and, next to the one that I cleaned in H202, etc, the difference is just unreal. I'm going to put the 2nd HD20's case out in the sun/solution this weekend. Since I started this thread, I've been able to get the 512K Mac up and running with the help of the wise people in these forums. I ended up fixing the clock problem via the purchase of a new logic board for $9 on eBay. Along the way
  13. JDW: I went out to the store today to get more h202 - I have a 2nd HD20 on the way.... The ingredients are 3%hydrogen peroxide and the remainder is water.... I wonder if the other ingredients in the Japanese H202 would be harmful to plastics... may be benign... Lumpy
  14. JDW: I was using the scoop to dispense the powder, but the amount I was using was roughly a tablespoon - albeit a heaping one. I didnt pay much attention to water temp - the Oxi dissolved pretty easily. You can see from my pictures that it was set outside in 30 degree temps. In one batch I added too much Oxi and the surface got pretty foamy - not a big deal, but it did obscure some of the sunlight in the tank of water. My recommendation is to start with less - and strengthen if you're not seeing results. Otherwise, you're just wasting materials and subjecting the plastic to a stronge
  15. JDW: The solution's percentages have been pretty approximate... but here is what I've used: First time (Mouse): 100% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% concentration), 0% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... maybe a little more Second time (HD20 Case) (Needed more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 50% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% peroxide concentration), 50% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... Third time (Mac 512 Case) (Needed even more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 30% Bottl
  16. I did notice that any screws put unto the H202 solution suffered from minor corrosion (steel?) I think you may be right about aluminum. Also, I am using a much lesser percentage of peroxide - compared to the solution that ate the Apple logo in the earlier picture that I linked to. I did not dunk any of the keyboard keys - with the exception of the spacebar, which was clearly yellowed in comparison to the rest. Apple would have to be careful with any aluminum - based paint. If it came into contact with steel parts/screws - Galvanic corrosion.
  17. JDW: I'm not sure about the content of the gray paint used on the interior.... Mine looks fine after being dunked. I promised some pictures - see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/3301745527/ you can move through the series by clicking to the right (you know the drill with Flickr as I've seen pictures posted by you there). The first series of pictures is of my 512Ke - which has been treated in the H2O2 solution and then wiped down with 303 Protectant. The last six pictures show a keyboard after it had been washed in H202. The first three are before 303 had been applie
  18. All: I have a Mac 512K that, at some point in its life, received the 800K drive upgrade (including the 128K ROM upgrade).I'm going to get my hands on a 400K floppy and 64K ROM set and downgrade this machine to its original spec (I have a 512Ke already). Question: Is the floppy mounting bracket for the 800K floppy (that is currently in my 512K) able to mount the 400K floppy correctly? Or do I need to also find a 400K floppy mounting bracket? Lumpy
  19. JDW: I have a keyboard that I washed and have not yet treated with 303 - this weekend I will take some pictures of is (before/after 303 protectant) and some pics of my cleaned 512K and 512Ke. Charlie
  20. The 303 Protectant is nice because it does not make the plastic look wet or feel slick like Armorall does. It gives the plastic a "new" look.... The UV block is a bonus. Not sure how long that lasts, but after the H202 dunk and the 303, the plastic looks brand new. I'm pretty pleased.
  21. Mac 128 - this thread has covered so many different things, I don't think it could be hijacked... Update on my Mac 512K: Still no luck with the clock. I did de/resolder the RTC chip. No luck. I purchased a 512Ke on eBay (arrived Friday) and swapped logic boards. Clock worked. So it confirms it's something on the logic board. I'm still focusing on C16 as it looks damaged. JDW - I did de-yellow my Mac 512K AND 512Ke cases in the solution this weekend. This time, the mix was 1/3 Hydrogen Peroxide - the rest was water (and Oxi powder). Used a big plastic clear storage bin (I think my wi
  22. What is the difference between the 3 128K ROM sets ? Pina writes that there were three versions. You can determine the version by pushing the interrupt button and typing "DM400000" without the quotes at the ">" prompt Top row - top of the second and third columns - the version numbers work out as follows: 4D1E EExx = version 1 4D1E EAxx = version 2 4D1F 81xx = version 3 So what's the difference between these 3? Does anyone know the difference? The reason I ask - I have version 2 ROMS in my Mac and I have a set of version 3 ROMS handy - I'm wondering what the differ
  23. Mac128 - that's it. Any multimeter reading using an ohm meter? Positive/red further away from RTC... I get nothing - resistance, continuity.... Here is a picture of the part (JDW's picture off of Flickr) - I circled it in Red: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/3277349640/sizes/o/ Mine is damaged and illegible. I'm new to this, but think I've found the culprit. Thanks P.S. Your quote - is that what your reading off of the part throught the magnifying glass?
  24. My C16 is on the opposite side of the board from the reset switch... I'm not good at identifying these small parts. My ohm meter was able to get a reading from all identical diode/resistors (not sure which this is)- as long as the posative and negative test pins (from the multimeter) were on the correct ends. The diode/resistor in qustion is clear/glass-like with a peach or orange band at the ends. There are a lot of identical looking diodes/resistors that I can get readings from. JDW - I'm not sure C16 is the same on my board as the part you are describing on the SE30... Lump
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