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  1. JDW: Nice work! I saw your pictures and your mac/parts/pieces look fantastic! I've been away from these forums for the summer and was glad to return and see you had given it a try. The results are truly worth the effort. Thanks for taking the time to post about your experiences.. Lumpy
  2. It made me smile. The artist clearly put some effort into it - I think it's great. Nice work and thanks for sharing it here.
  3. Mac128: I will update the original post with the information on the potential corrosive effects to steel logo/stickers and I will also note the sources of cheaper H202! With regard to large items and conserving H202 solution: Great minds think alike! I actually filled two Arizona Ice Tea containers (the large ones) with water and squeezed them a little before sealing them to make them a tiny bit narrower... Two of these containers fit into the rear bucket of a compact mac and decrease the volume of water needed to fill the tub to fully submerge the bucket! Lumpy
  4. You really have to try it to see how effective it is. My mouse was my first test and it had yellow spots and unven yellowing. It was a mess. I went out at the end of the day to retreive it from the solution and could not believe the result. I tried my HD20 case then next day - it was really badly yellowed - also unevenly. Six hours later - and I have a uniform beige case - looks brand new. What interests me is how the process does not leave you with a uniform "lightening" effect, with all the uneven markings still there - rather, it seems to remove JUST the yellow and leave behind the
  5. All: I started a discussion on de-yellowing compact Mac plastics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8794 which was about my adventures in reviving and restoring an eBay-purchased 512K Mac. There has been enough discussion about de-yellowing in that thread that I thought I would start a new/separate topic on the subject of de-yellowing Apple compact Mac plastics - in my case, a 512K and a 512Ke (and associated peripherals). Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), Water, Oxi-Clean and Sun/UV light, I have been able to reverse the yellowing effects of UV light. My efforts stem from what I
  6. JDW: I will give that a try. To my eye, the spacebar looks identical to the rest! Pictures once I get a free moment and some daylight. None of he other keys were washed. The surrounding beige plastic was. Lumpy
  7. Man... the guys on that thread are really frying there stuff.... 30%+ H202 concentration is what they are using if I follow correctly. I put my spacebar in the 1.5 to 3% percent concentration solution for the 5th time yesterday (along with my 2nd HD20's case - which I just purchased). The spacebar finally looks like the rest of the keys. See pictures here (navigate through the series of pictures using the thumbnails to the right): http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/sets/72157614991289408/ I took a bunch of pictures because the flash/lighting can have different effects on the r
  8. Man - you guys are sticklers! Ok - here goes.... The mouse label was NOT affected when I posted that feedback in this thread. I just double checked. I can post pics tomorrow of the mouse label if it would help. I also just checked the serial number of the compact Mac cases and found them to NOT have a halo any more - so my theory is that they dry out (the last time I looked - fairly soon after dunking - they both had a halo...). So that debunks my theory that Dan's eBay Mac was dunked... unless those pics were taken soon after (before the labels dried out). We may never know - unless Dan s
  9. Mac128: Duly noted and I should have mentioned that my comment on Dan's eBay auction was only speculation - primarily because that is one seriously clean Mac! Lumpy P.S. You'll notice in my pictures that I was not able to fully rid the space bar of its discoloration - as mentioned, the harder plastic does not let go of its yellow color as easily as the rest of the Mac plastics. Also - the 303 Protectant does not leave the case looking glossy like that..
  10. JDW: Interesting stuff - I went to look at the bottle that my H202 came in. It does say the following: 1) "Topical Solution USP" 2) Where the percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is diclosed, it is followed by "(Stabilized)" Despite my lack of knowledge with regard to how to read/interpret labels on H202 bottles, the stuff I used worked just fine and did not attack or degrade the plastics in any way that I can see. I do agree that you should experiment with plastics that are less valuable to you... I started with my mouse - knowing I could repleace it fairly cheaply on eBay.
  11. Right you are! Thanks for catching that. I have one M0001W and one M0001E. The purchases of these different model numbers was purposeful, and I'd like to complete the collection of the first three models with a 128K M0001 model - maybe adde a Plus to mess around with programs that require more memory. To be honest, I get the most enjoyment out of getting them up and running - and then restoring them. Unlike my first two purchases, any additions will likely be broken units. I have an original HD20 Init disk and intend to use it to work the M0001W. I resurected my father's Pow
  12. JDW - I too am disappointed that you can't find the right ingredients - I've been looking forward to having someone else here try it out and share their results. I just took delivery of a second HD20 and, next to the one that I cleaned in H202, etc, the difference is just unreal. I'm going to put the 2nd HD20's case out in the sun/solution this weekend. Since I started this thread, I've been able to get the 512K Mac up and running with the help of the wise people in these forums. I ended up fixing the clock problem via the purchase of a new logic board for $9 on eBay. Along the way
  13. JDW: I went out to the store today to get more h202 - I have a 2nd HD20 on the way.... The ingredients are 3%hydrogen peroxide and the remainder is water.... I wonder if the other ingredients in the Japanese H202 would be harmful to plastics... may be benign... Lumpy
  14. JDW: I was using the scoop to dispense the powder, but the amount I was using was roughly a tablespoon - albeit a heaping one. I didnt pay much attention to water temp - the Oxi dissolved pretty easily. You can see from my pictures that it was set outside in 30 degree temps. In one batch I added too much Oxi and the surface got pretty foamy - not a big deal, but it did obscure some of the sunlight in the tank of water. My recommendation is to start with less - and strengthen if you're not seeing results. Otherwise, you're just wasting materials and subjecting the plastic to a stronge
  15. JDW: The solution's percentages have been pretty approximate... but here is what I've used: First time (Mouse): 100% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% concentration), 0% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... maybe a little more Second time (HD20 Case) (Needed more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 50% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% peroxide concentration), 50% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... Third time (Mac 512 Case) (Needed even more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 30% Bottl
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