
lumpydog
6502-
Content Count
58 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
JDW: Nice work! I saw your pictures and your mac/parts/pieces look fantastic! I've been away from these forums for the summer and was glad to return and see you had given it a try. The results are truly worth the effort. Thanks for taking the time to post about your experiences.. Lumpy
-
It made me smile. The artist clearly put some effort into it - I think it's great. Nice work and thanks for sharing it here.
-
Mac128: I will update the original post with the information on the potential corrosive effects to steel logo/stickers and I will also note the sources of cheaper H202! With regard to large items and conserving H202 solution: Great minds think alike! I actually filled two Arizona Ice Tea containers (the large ones) with water and squeezed them a little before sealing them to make them a tiny bit narrower... Two of these containers fit into the rear bucket of a compact mac and decrease the volume of water needed to fill the tub to fully submerge the bucket! Lumpy
-
You really have to try it to see how effective it is. My mouse was my first test and it had yellow spots and unven yellowing. It was a mess. I went out at the end of the day to retreive it from the solution and could not believe the result. I tried my HD20 case then next day - it was really badly yellowed - also unevenly. Six hours later - and I have a uniform beige case - looks brand new. What interests me is how the process does not leave you with a uniform "lightening" effect, with all the uneven markings still there - rather, it seems to remove JUST the yellow and leave behind the
-
All: I started a discussion on de-yellowing compact Mac plastics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8794 which was about my adventures in reviving and restoring an eBay-purchased 512K Mac. There has been enough discussion about de-yellowing in that thread that I thought I would start a new/separate topic on the subject of de-yellowing Apple compact Mac plastics - in my case, a 512K and a 512Ke (and associated peripherals). Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), Water, Oxi-Clean and Sun/UV light, I have been able to reverse the yellowing effects of UV light. My efforts stem from what I
-
JDW: I will give that a try. To my eye, the spacebar looks identical to the rest! Pictures once I get a free moment and some daylight. None of he other keys were washed. The surrounding beige plastic was. Lumpy
-
Man... the guys on that thread are really frying there stuff.... 30%+ H202 concentration is what they are using if I follow correctly. I put my spacebar in the 1.5 to 3% percent concentration solution for the 5th time yesterday (along with my 2nd HD20's case - which I just purchased). The spacebar finally looks like the rest of the keys. See pictures here (navigate through the series of pictures using the thumbnails to the right): http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/sets/72157614991289408/ I took a bunch of pictures because the flash/lighting can have different effects on the r
-
Man - you guys are sticklers! Ok - here goes.... The mouse label was NOT affected when I posted that feedback in this thread. I just double checked. I can post pics tomorrow of the mouse label if it would help. I also just checked the serial number of the compact Mac cases and found them to NOT have a halo any more - so my theory is that they dry out (the last time I looked - fairly soon after dunking - they both had a halo...). So that debunks my theory that Dan's eBay Mac was dunked... unless those pics were taken soon after (before the labels dried out). We may never know - unless Dan s
-
Mac128: Duly noted and I should have mentioned that my comment on Dan's eBay auction was only speculation - primarily because that is one seriously clean Mac! Lumpy P.S. You'll notice in my pictures that I was not able to fully rid the space bar of its discoloration - as mentioned, the harder plastic does not let go of its yellow color as easily as the rest of the Mac plastics. Also - the 303 Protectant does not leave the case looking glossy like that..
-
JDW: Interesting stuff - I went to look at the bottle that my H202 came in. It does say the following: 1) "Topical Solution USP" 2) Where the percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is diclosed, it is followed by "(Stabilized)" Despite my lack of knowledge with regard to how to read/interpret labels on H202 bottles, the stuff I used worked just fine and did not attack or degrade the plastics in any way that I can see. I do agree that you should experiment with plastics that are less valuable to you... I started with my mouse - knowing I could repleace it fairly cheaply on eBay.
-
Right you are! Thanks for catching that. I have one M0001W and one M0001E. The purchases of these different model numbers was purposeful, and I'd like to complete the collection of the first three models with a 128K M0001 model - maybe adde a Plus to mess around with programs that require more memory. To be honest, I get the most enjoyment out of getting them up and running - and then restoring them. Unlike my first two purchases, any additions will likely be broken units. I have an original HD20 Init disk and intend to use it to work the M0001W. I resurected my father's Pow
-
JDW - I too am disappointed that you can't find the right ingredients - I've been looking forward to having someone else here try it out and share their results. I just took delivery of a second HD20 and, next to the one that I cleaned in H202, etc, the difference is just unreal. I'm going to put the 2nd HD20's case out in the sun/solution this weekend. Since I started this thread, I've been able to get the 512K Mac up and running with the help of the wise people in these forums. I ended up fixing the clock problem via the purchase of a new logic board for $9 on eBay. Along the way
-
JDW: I went out to the store today to get more h202 - I have a 2nd HD20 on the way.... The ingredients are 3%hydrogen peroxide and the remainder is water.... I wonder if the other ingredients in the Japanese H202 would be harmful to plastics... may be benign... Lumpy
-
JDW: I was using the scoop to dispense the powder, but the amount I was using was roughly a tablespoon - albeit a heaping one. I didnt pay much attention to water temp - the Oxi dissolved pretty easily. You can see from my pictures that it was set outside in 30 degree temps. In one batch I added too much Oxi and the surface got pretty foamy - not a big deal, but it did obscure some of the sunlight in the tank of water. My recommendation is to start with less - and strengthen if you're not seeing results. Otherwise, you're just wasting materials and subjecting the plastic to a stronge
-
JDW: The solution's percentages have been pretty approximate... but here is what I've used: First time (Mouse): 100% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% concentration), 0% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... maybe a little more Second time (HD20 Case) (Needed more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 50% Bottled Hydrogen Peroxide (3% peroxide concentration), 50% Water. For each gallon of this solution, a tablespoon of Oxi... Third time (Mac 512 Case) (Needed even more fluid to fully submerge larger plastics in larger tubs): 30% Bottl