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  1. Nice that you got it to work with an LC! I have a PowerView as well, haven't used it in ages but I recall getting it to work with a Classic II, PowerBook 180 and Duo 280c. I recall having to use the "I wish I were" control panel to get it to work with the Duo 280c, but I forget about the 180. Might have worked with the 180 without any change. I did not have any luck running it with a PowerPC machine (a 2300c).
  2. Papichulo, thank you for the reply; I think you're right about using baking soda and alcohol. I did some more digging and found a post about a 180c having a similar issue: https://classicmacs.org/2010/06/powerbook-180c-acquired/ I picked up some (3%) hydrogen peroxide to try on the case and should have some baking soda around, I'll give those a try. Should still have some isopropyl alcohol around as well for cleaning the board. I'll post results when I get a chance to work on it.
  3. Hi, I noticed I couldn't take out the battery in my 540c, so I took apart the case and found that the main battery had leaked pretty badly in the bay. I'm wondering if there is a way to clean up the corrosion and and stuff. Searching around I found articles and tutorials for alkaline batteries, but nothing specific for Ni-MH (actually most sites said it was very rare for Ni-MH batteries to leak badly). I found an article from Energizer (https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nickelmetalhydride_appman.pdf) stating that the crystals are potassium carbonate, so perhaps a weak acid, like vine
  4. I'm working on refurbishing an SE Superdrive for my friend, but came across what I worry might be some corrosion at the base of the power supply. This is in the left front of the machine just behind the contrast knob (which is visible in the picture) Link to full sized image: https://i.imgur.com/2QlmSet.jpg It sort of looks like grease to me and appears dry. Looking inside the power supply, I don't notice any leaky capacitors on the inside of the power supply. Anyone else run into this? Let me know what you think. Thanks!
  5. Oh neat, I just recapped my Classic II last week (it was my first attempt to recap a motherboard). I bought enough capacitors to recap either type of Classic II boards from www.mouser.com (as I didn't have the computer open at the time of buying the capacitors). It was $11.25 including shipping. I opted for Panasonic Aluminum SMD passive capacitors (similar to ones I thought were already on the board) that would last at least 5000 hours http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-SMD/_/N-75hqx/. Their search form lo
  6. Ah nice. I'm not opposed to putting it in the dishwasher (if I had one), just wanted to make sure I wasn't worsening any corrosion But sounds like corrosion will not be an issue if it has worked so often in the past for you. Thanks!
  7. thanks for the tip! I will give that a try
  8. Hi all, I am finally working to recap/restore my Classic II that has been out of commission for the last 8 years, using it as practice to refurbish the rest of my collection. The Classic II had weak sound and stopped booting a number of years ago but I have some newbie questions for the refurbishment process. I purchased replacement capacitors as per uniserver's diagrams, got the case cracked open and proceeded with an initial wash as prep before surgery. My steps were: Wash with water spray 91% isopropyl alcohol, swirly motions in a tub of water spray again with alcohol delicate
  9. Just curious, when you check the DHCP settings, do you have a browser open (or something else making a request)? In my experience, OpenTransport (by default) only activates TCP/IP when an application makes a request.
  10. Wow that is quite a find! Congrats!
  11. A lot of great suggestions so far, a few more could be: Terminal Velocity Damage Inc Prime Target X-Wing Tie Fighter Lode Runner Escape Velocity If you don't already, grab a copy of SpeedDoubler 8 as well. In my personal experience, CD-Rs work fine on the older computers but CD-RWs do not. Disk Images should be fine to burn, but burning a folder from a current Mac might not work. 8.1 supports HFS+ (Mac OS Extended) but 8.0 only supports Mac OS Standard (don't have it burn a PC formatted disk )
  12. Hm.. I assume you are using Open Transport instead of Classic Networking? You'll see a Control Panel for TCP/IP if you are using Open Transport. It might be useful to make sure you are running the latest Open Transport, which is 1.3 if I recall. System 7 Today should have the drivers: http://main.system7today.com/updates/75x_powerpc.html By default, Open Transport only activates the TCP/IP stack if an application needs it, so you might need to boot up a browser if you have not already done so. Setting Appletalk to use the Ethernet card might help too, or it will give you an er
  13. I finally got around to swapping out the card from my 5300 into my 190. Unfortunately, I got the same result as you. My card has a note "FOR 53XX"1 so I guess that the 190's card would say something like "FOR 19X". I incorrectly assumed that the MV16EN was a universal card, because the Installation software had options to install the driver for the 5300 or 190 series, but only had 5300 drivers for their MV16 and MV8 cards. Sorry to get your hopes up! 1. Makes me wonder if Apple planned to release other alternate models, like a 5316, following their PowerMac lines.
  14. I thought that the mv16-en was compatible across the 5300 and 190, though not sure about the 8-bit video card or the video card sans ethernet. I have a 5300c +mv16-en card, I'll try the card in my 190 when I get a chance and post about the results. Could the HD not spinning up be a result of not enough power from the power adapter?
  15. Is it a partitioned Mac OS Standard and Extended CF card? I think I ran into that recently, I think re-blessing the System on the Mac OS Standard partition fixed it. Is it possible that the System was intended for a different computer and might not a 'universal' install for any computer?
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