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drybones99

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  1. When I tried using the .dc42 profile image that I had working with LisaEm 1.2.6 with the new beta version, I got the ipc error again. Furthermore, when I attempted to create a new profile image by installing LOS 3.1 by booting from the first install floppy image, I get "The Tag checksum failed for this disk. It may be corrupted." This is followed by the same ipc error as before and an endless loop of the disk drive sound. The floppy images are in .image format, but they were working just fine in LisaEm 1.2.6, although I get the Tag checksum error there as well, but afterwards, it boots properl
  2. I tried to use the beta version of LisaEm you provided, but whenever I attempt to turn on the virtual Lisa 2, I keep getting the error, "cpu68k_makeipclist: But! ipc is null! Stopped at cpu68k.c:cpu68k_makeipclist:1071 with code :501". When trying to use the blu-to-dc42.exe program with my raw BLU image, I keep getting the errror, "WARNING: Error reading BLU header block, fread size did not return 532 bytes block, got 16 blocks!"
  3. I was able to convert my disk image to a .dc42 file using the provided tools. Unfortunately, I was unable to get it to work with LisaEm. Upon turning on the virtual Lisa 2 in LisaEm, it turns off immediately. Upon trying again, the light stays off, but the virtual Lisa 2 screen turns on with a picture of the hard disk, and it stays frozen on that screen forever. The converted file is attached. 3_-_BUILT-IN_PARALLEL_PORT_(10_MB_Widget_Hard_Disk).dc42
  4. My main computer runs Windows 10, but I have a MacBook Pro. If you, in fact, have a binary of the blu-to-dc42 conversion program, I would definitely be interested in trying to run it on the one computer of mine that actually does run macOS.
  5. I am interested in trying to use that "blu-to-dc42.c" program, but I haven't had much experience in compiling other peoples' programs, and CodeBlocks keeps throwing out compiling errors. I have attempted to fix many of them, but I just can't get the program to run. Do you know how I could get this program to run, so that I might be able to attempt to convert my BLU image file?
  6. I attempted to edit the raw image with HxD again, this time only selecting to "Lisa HD Img BLUV0.90", which would indeed end at byte $0213, and now, while IDLE still won't boot the system, I get a different error. The error I now receive is error "75", which, according to the Lisa FAQ, indicates that the "system files are damaged". I'm not sure how this could be the case, seeing as it always boots fine on my real Lisa 2, but some progress has at least been made.
  7. I removed all of the data up to offset 000010A0 in HxD, which should be the first 532 bytes, since each offset contains 16 hex numbers, and therefore, 16 bits, or 2 bytes. Each offset is in multiples of 10 in HxD. The last portion to be deleted also includes the text string, "NÐERROR". Unfortunately, the "84" error persists in IDLE, and I've given up on trying to use LisaEm for now, simply due to the fact that it needs a .dc42 drive image. I will now wait for your next post for further guidance.
  8. I recently figured out how to use BLU (Basic Lisa Utility) to transfer an image of the entire Widget hard disk on my Lisa 2/10 over a null-modem serial cable to my MacBook Pro as what appears to be a raw binary file. The file size is about 10 MB, which seems appropriate, and by looking at it with a hex editor, I can clearly see some of the data in there, including some of raw text data found in the documents that were written in LisaWrite. I wish to be able to use this disk image with a Lisa emulator, such as LisaEm or IDLE, but so far, I have had little luck. IDLE uses .raw files, but when I
  9. This one has the correct model number: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iomega-ZIP-100-Portable-SCSI-Z100S2-Drive-/252442545710?hash=item3ac6bf8e2e:g:OBIAAOSwhOVXcyah What kind of Zip disks should I get? Would any type work?
  10. Would this one be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iomega-ZIP-100-SCSI-Z100S2-drive-EXCELLENT-CONDITION-/112041345066
  11. I would like to back up my Macintosh Plus's external hard disk, which all of my stuff is on, including the system folder. I've heard that a SCSI Zip Drive may be good for that. If so, what kind of SCSI Zip Drive would I use, and how would I install it? Does any SCSI Zip Drive work, or must it be a specific type? Is it important to make sure that I buy a tested one, and are they prone to failure? Would this be a good Zip Drive for this purpose? http://www.ebay.com/itm/iOmega-Z100P2-Zip-100-External-Zip-Drive/381679098977?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSI
  12. It is possible that it is the sound of the flyback transformer, and typically signifies the near-end of its life. If that is the problem, then your flyback doesn't have much more time, and should be replaced, before it burns out, taking other parts with it, as it did to by Mac Plus. On the other hand, old CRTs have a tendency to make a constant high-pitched sound, but the Compact Mac CRTs are too small and in B&W, so they don't produce as high of voltages, and therefore shouldn't make that sound.
  13. I once had a problem where the computer would freeze randomly, and garbage would appear on the screen. Often, I would even get jail bars on the screen on startup, with no chime. I fixed the problem by removing the ROM Chips from their sockets, and brushing both sides of the pins with sandpaper (A toothbrush might work as well, but sandpaper is recommended). I put them back in, and the computer has never frozen or given me jail bars again. If your chips have green residue on the side, then that should be your problem, as it is corrosion. Using this method removes the corrosion, and should make
  14. A similar problem happened to me a while back. If you don't replace the flyback transformer as soon as possible, there is a high probability that it will fail. That whine means that it is just about to fail. If it fails, it will take some other parts along with it, so if you don't want to replace more than one part, which requires lots of soldering, and some troubleshooting, I would recommend replacing the flyback. Does your screen occasionally jitter, and do the sides of the screen bounce a bit? You can buy a replacement flyback on eBay for about twenty dollars, but having the correct model i
  15. I already tried pressing on the keys and wiggling them, which didn't work. I am pretty good with a soldering iron, as I have desoldered about seven key switches, and then removed them. I deconstructed them, so that I could clean the contacts with contact-cleaner. Despite this, the problem has persisted. Can anybody link me to an eBay-like site that sells that exact key switch (Alps SKCCAF light cream)? Retrotechnology.com doesn't accept Paypal for non-international orders, so I would prefer not to use that.
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