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Everything posted by mraroid

  1. Thanks everyone. I do like the MacintoshGarden. macintoshrepository has been so hard to deal with, that I think I will just pass on trying to contact them. mraroid
  2. The pins look bent. But they also look corroded to me. Mine are shinny metal looking. Some very fine sand paper will clean them up nicely... But it may be nothing. Others here would know better. mraroid
  3. Buy a mouse and keyboard from ebay? The Color Classic has a on/off switch in the back which I am sure you have found. After a mouse and keyboard are hooked up, and after making sure the on/off key is on, you press down on a key on the keyboard to boot the Color Classic. It is the key at the very top of the keyboard, to the right of the apple logo. I *think* I have the original keyboard for my CC, but perhaps other keyboards work, and the boot key on other keyboards may be located in different places. Between now and the time your keyboard and mouse arrive, I suggest
  4. Look at the photo techknight posted. Look at the top of the drive to the right. You will see a small black dot among some pins. This dot is a shorting block. You need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to do this the easy way, but you can use your fingers. You need to remove the short block (the black thing) from where it is now, to a different spot among the available pins. What you are doing is telling the drive it is the master drive, and no drives are in the chain after it. (or what ever your config calls for). Others here can tell you where to move that small black sho
  5. Would this help? I will try to post a pdf. mraroid Macintosh_Classic_II_Schematic_(bomarc).pdf
  6. OK. Thanks. I guess I will have to cross them of my list unless I can contact them somehow. Appreciate the feedback. mraroid
  7. Hi... Almost a week ago, I tried to go to Macintosh respiratory. But I forgot my password. I asked for a password reset and was sent email, a code and a link. When I tried the link, nothing happened. I tried several times, and then tried the main web site again. I got either a time out message, or a refused message. I moved from a Mac, to a Windows box, and to linux. Same thing. So I drove to a WiFi hot spot in my town and tried it. Same thing. I am not sure if the site is down, or they have blacklisted me by mistake somehow. Can anyone get in?
  8. Thanks for the help. I did do a google search and found a few sites with serial numbers. None of them worked. I did a google search for "Hackers Helpers" but was unable to find that website. Could it be that the serial number is glued to a name? For example, if I had a good serial number, would I need the same name that the software was registered under for it to work? I sent the ebay seller a very polite email. I told him of my issue and asked if he had installed it in the past, or installed it and then un installed it, and a few other questions. But the seller ha
  9. Hi.. I have a Mystic Color Classic. I am running 8.1 I bought the original disk and paperwork for Adobe Photoshop 3.0 from ebay. Included was the serial number. I use Photoshop and I actually use my Mystic for work I do at home. I have bought and used many different versions of Photoshop in the past, and Photoshop is what I want to run on my Mystic. The install went perfect. I came to a screen that wanted me to enter in all my data (serial #, name, address, etc). I entered all of it. I am hooked up to the internet. I hit the enter key, and Photoshop
  10. Hi... I thought cheesestraws's idea was a good one. That would for sure prove the trouble in our out of your motherboard. Send him all three. I never did try to run my CC with out an FPU. Well, I did when it was all original, but I quickly added the max amount of RAM and a FPU. It seemed faster to me, but it could have been my imagination. We are dealing with very, very old and very very slow technology. So anything to help speed it up is a good idea IMHO. I read here that fake china FPUs were being sold on ebay and to watch out. I bought what seemed to be a pu
  11. I wish I could help, but this is out of my league. But I do appreciate the very good detailed photo, plus the additional information on the photo. If everyone were this good at explaining issues they are having, plus provide good photos as you have, troubleshooting will go much faster. I am sure someone can come up with something. I look forward to learning more about this problem. mraroid
  12. Hello just.in.time... Thank you for the good feedback. I am sure it is heresy to say this here, but my first computer was a IBM PC XT that i bought in 1984 or 1985. I learned DOS on that computer. Now I find that I am very rusty when I shell to DOS in Windows 10. So maybe not a early version of windows, but maybe I can get a early version of DOS to run on my Mystic? I will keep your email and look for the versions you suggest. I appreciate the help! mraroid
  13. OK. That is a good tip. Thank you. I down load software where I can find it. But I am not put off by buying software on places like ebay for example. More then 1/2 the time the seller gives little to no information on what the software will run under other than an Apple computer. If I pester them, and they still have a box, I can sometimes get them to post a photo of the box showing what OS and processor the software can support. Despite my best efforts, I often buy software that will not run. Disks or a CD will come with a manual and the manual will give more detail as to w
  14. Hello ttb... I also use the https://powercc.org I think it is one of the best sites for original Color Classics, or mods. I did the 640 X 480 mod the old time way and used option one on the above web site. That was maybe three or four years ago. I use my CC about two or three times a week, for maybe between one and two hours each time. I have only had one problem develop. About 6 months ago I found two shadows on my screen. Apparently, the built in degassing coil on the Sony CRT was not working. So I bought am external degassing coil and it fixed the
  15. Hi folks... I have a Color Classic Mystic. I have a SCSI2CF for a hard drive, 132MB MBs of RAM, a full 68940 in a LC 575, the 640 X 480 mod, and Internet access. I can boot to 7.6.1 or 8.1. Here is my issue.... I keep looking on ebay and other places for the latest versions of popular software that I can install under 8.1. But even if the seller posts a photo of the box, I can't tell if it will run, or if it will run, can I install a newer version? About the only software that I can find reliable data for, are which are the latest versions of Netscape and IE
  16. I suggest checking if the chip is installed correctly as well. Mraroid
  17. Many of the Yahoo groups have moved to Group IO. You could try searching Group IO: https://groups.io/ mraroid
  18. I think you found the problem mst3K. And, if not your chime problem, it will be a problem in the future. I suggest you fix it. You can buy small insulated wire, and then solder a "bridge" between the two points on the board to make very sure you have a good connecting. It might look a bit looks wonky, but if you know how to solder, it will work as well or better as a trace and function just fine. Enclosed is a photo of some wire I use. Actually, I use a wire gauge that is slightly smaller then this wire, but I can not find my reel of wire right now in my messy base
  19. I can not help with your sound issue. But, as an aside, you can upgrade to 8.1 with out issue. I believe it has been said that 8.1 is more stable than 8.0. Wish I could help with the sound, but I just do not know enough. I hope someone can jump in here... I am guessing that if you boot to a floppy you have no sound? And is it true you have no sound when your boot your hard drive to 8.0 as well as 7.5.5? mraroid
  20. Ah! Yes, I do know what you are talking about. The coil of wire for a big CRT TV is massive compared to what is in the CC. I know the wire and molex connector you are talking about now. I will open up this bad boy and see what I can find. Thanks so much techknight! mraroid
  21. Can you post a photo of where the soldering joints are that could go bad? Are they on the yoke (the thing that plugs into the back of the CRT)? Or they on the board them selves? Is a drawing or a schematic on line any place that I could look at? I would like to fix mine if I can. Now I do not know how long the built in degausser coil has been bad in my CC. Thanks for the heads up! mraroid
  22. Hi techknight.... Are you saying that the color classic has a built in degaussing coil? If so, then mine is broken I guess. The CC must not need to be degaussed very often as this is the first time I have ever had to do it. I did it on some older CRT TVs when I was younger. But after a while most CRT TVs came with a degaussing coil that would run every time you turned the TV on. It was a thick loop of wire that was arranged around the perimeter of the screen. The coil usually makes a braaap sound when you first turn it on. I do not recall hearing that sound f
  23. Folks... I converted my Color Classic to 640 X 480, and installed a board who's CPU I replaced with a full 68040, I have a SCSI2CF for a hard drive, and I can boot to 7.6.2 or to 8.1 It boots kind of slow because I have a 128 MB SIM in it, but I am OK with that. I have a network card installed and I can surf the internet as long as I go to web sites made for older computers like mine. The Color Classic has been working perfect since I made the mod about 3 or 4 years ago. But in the last 6 months or so, I saw a shadow on the left hand side of my screen and also on the right
  24. Thank you Torbar for that good information. I have thought about adding a SE/30 in the future to my small Apple collection. I had no idea that they supported a 1.44 MB drive. Are the 1.44 floppy drives in the SE/30 Auto-Inject floppy drives? mraroid
  25. I thought the floppy drive in a color classic was a 1.44 drive. Did the SE/30 have 1.44 floppy drives in them? I never did own a SE/30. I thought they had 400 and 800k floppy drives in them....?? mraroid
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