mraroid

Hummm. If you only had a buddy in Italy who could let you try a working logic board from a working color classic that would be helpful.... mraroid

Can you boot to a OS floppy disk? A battery will not cost you very much money. You will need one at some point. Here is one for $3.50, but not sure of the postage cost. https://batteryguy.com/lithium-battery-3.6v-1200mah-ls14250-saft.html?msclkid=330cbffc927f11c49101e00f0314e812&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Shopping%20Core%20Business%20Hours&utm_term=4584894771052069&utm_content=Core%20Products You can google "Er-14250 3.6V Lithium PRAM Battery" and see what you come up with. Not sure of your country.

Thanks everyone. I do like the MacintoshGarden. macintoshrepository has been so hard to deal with, that I think I will just pass on trying to contact them. mraroid

The pins look bent. But they also look corroded to me. Mine are shinny metal looking. Some very fine sand paper will clean them up nicely... But it may be nothing. Others here would know better. mraroid

Buy a mouse and keyboard from ebay? The Color Classic has a on/off switch in the back which I am sure you have found. After a mouse and keyboard are hooked up, and after making sure the on/off key is on, you press down on a key on the keyboard to boot the Color Classic. It is the key at the very top of the keyboard, to the right of the apple logo. I *think* I have the original keyboard for my CC, but perhaps other keyboards work, and the boot key on other keyboards may be located in different places. Between now and the time your keyboard and mouse arrive, I suggest

Look at the photo techknight posted. Look at the top of the drive to the right. You will see a small black dot among some pins. This dot is a shorting block. You need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to do this the easy way, but you can use your fingers. You need to remove the short block (the black thing) from where it is now, to a different spot among the available pins. What you are doing is telling the drive it is the master drive, and no drives are in the chain after it. (or what ever your config calls for). Others here can tell you where to move that small black sho

Would this help? I will try to post a pdf. mraroid Macintosh_Classic_II_Schematic_(bomarc).pdf

OK. Thanks. I guess I will have to cross them of my list unless I can contact them somehow. Appreciate the feedback. mraroid

Hi... Almost a week ago, I tried to go to Macintosh respiratory. But I forgot my password. I asked for a password reset and was sent email, a code and a link. When I tried the link, nothing happened. I tried several times, and then tried the main web site again. I got either a time out message, or a refused message. I moved from a Mac, to a Windows box, and to linux. Same thing. So I drove to a WiFi hot spot in my town and tried it. Same thing. I am not sure if the site is down, or they have blacklisted me by mistake somehow. Can anyone get in?

Thanks for the help. I did do a google search and found a few sites with serial numbers. None of them worked. I did a google search for "Hackers Helpers" but was unable to find that website. Could it be that the serial number is glued to a name? For example, if I had a good serial number, would I need the same name that the software was registered under for it to work? I sent the ebay seller a very polite email. I told him of my issue and asked if he had installed it in the past, or installed it and then un installed it, and a few other questions. But the seller ha

Hi.. I have a Mystic Color Classic. I am running 8.1 I bought the original disk and paperwork for Adobe Photoshop 3.0 from ebay. Included was the serial number. I use Photoshop and I actually use my Mystic for work I do at home. I have bought and used many different versions of Photoshop in the past, and Photoshop is what I want to run on my Mystic. The install went perfect. I came to a screen that wanted me to enter in all my data (serial #, name, address, etc). I entered all of it. I am hooked up to the internet. I hit the enter key, and Photoshop

Hi... I thought cheesestraws's idea was a good one. That would for sure prove the trouble in our out of your motherboard. Send him all three. I never did try to run my CC with out an FPU. Well, I did when it was all original, but I quickly added the max amount of RAM and a FPU. It seemed faster to me, but it could have been my imagination. We are dealing with very, very old and very very slow technology. So anything to help speed it up is a good idea IMHO. I read here that fake china FPUs were being sold on ebay and to watch out. I bought what seemed to be a pu

I wish I could help, but this is out of my league. But I do appreciate the very good detailed photo, plus the additional information on the photo. If everyone were this good at explaining issues they are having, plus provide good photos as you have, troubleshooting will go much faster. I am sure someone can come up with something. I look forward to learning more about this problem. mraroid

Hello just.in.time... Thank you for the good feedback. I am sure it is heresy to say this here, but my first computer was a IBM PC XT that i bought in 1984 or 1985. I learned DOS on that computer. Now I find that I am very rusty when I shell to DOS in Windows 10. So maybe not a early version of windows, but maybe I can get a early version of DOS to run on my Mystic? I will keep your email and look for the versions you suggest. I appreciate the help! mraroid

OK. That is a good tip. Thank you. I down load software where I can find it. But I am not put off by buying software on places like ebay for example. More then 1/2 the time the seller gives little to no information on what the software will run under other than an Apple computer. If I pester them, and they still have a box, I can sometimes get them to post a photo of the box showing what OS and processor the software can support. Despite my best efforts, I often buy software that will not run. Disks or a CD will come with a manual and the manual will give more detail as to w