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Garrett

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Everything posted by Garrett

  1. I believe that's @falen5 here on the 68kMLA forums. I recall seeing his massive Mac collection and being instantly jealous. I'd recommend just going ahead and replacing the capacitors, at least the logic board. But I highly recommend paying someone else to do it if you're like me and inexperienced (and/or horrible) at soldering. As others have mentioned, these caps leak. While not nearly as immediately destructive as the battery bombs, the electrolyte will eventually eat through the traces on the board causing all sorts of crazy issues and shorts.
  2. I'm the owner of the board - I didn't see this until now, but thought I'd respond just in case this helps someone else in the future. Below is a picture of the pattern displayed before the machine would chime and boot. Sometimes it would boot instantly, other times it'd boot 15-30 seconds after flipping the power switch, and other times it'd take 30 minutes or more for the machine to boot. Before removing the logic board to have it recapped, it seemed to be working fine for the most part. Here's a video of the behavior:
  3. I'm currently in the process of "restoring" my Macintosh Classic. I've seen instances online where these RIFA caps can dramatically explode, letting the magic smoke out. I'd rather not have that happen (as it would be embarrassing to set off the fire alarm in my building) even though I've heard that these computers usually function fine after the RIFA caps explode, especially since they're not necessary for operation. Should I be concerned about it? I haven't recapped my analog board since it seems to work fine, and I don't want to risk damaging the CRT to remove the analog board.
  4. I know it's been a while, but I noticed some discoloration (scorch marks?) near C9 and the molex connector in the second-to-last photo. Maybe that was part of the cause? Also, don't forget to remove that battery if it's the original.
  5. I finally received the Torx bit, so I cracked open the machine. The case didn't separate nearly as easy as I thought it would. I tried and tried to use Dog Cow's method (pressing down on the screwdriver while pulling up on the handle) but I had no luck on the top part of the case, near the handle. The bottom part of the case was separating fine. I took a plastic bicycle tire lever and, very carefully, separated the halves. It came apart with a little bit of prying. Didn't leave any marks or anything that I'm aware of. The inside actually didn't look too dirty. I remove
  6. I'm inclined to believe mine has the 2MB expansion, because mine came with a hard drive. The Classic was originally sold as two varieties - one without a hard drive/1MB RAM, and another with a 40MB hard drive and 2MB RAM (with that daughter-card.) I believe mine has the original hard drive. So unless someone removed the expansion card, it should still be in there. If I'm really lucky, they may have maxed it out at 4MB. But I doubt I'll get that lucky - it seems like this computer is fairly stock and has never been opened. Which means opening it is likely going to be an even bigger
  7. From what I've read and heard, these Macintosh Classics (as well as the Classic II and the SE/30) are suceptible to leaky caps. All of these vintage machines are, but I've heard that these have the worst luck with them. I've also seen a lot of Classics destroyed by the red Maxell bombs, so I'll be happy when I get this machine apart and that battery taken out. The guy who is recapping the board says he also does a thorough cleaning to get all of the goo off. Unfortunately, this whole Coronavirus/COVID-19 is putting some brakes on my plans. I was expecting to get the Tor
  8. Great. I'm going to need to order ESD anti-static bags as apparently none of the local computer repair shops have them to give out/sell. I'm assuming modern motherboard ESD anti-static bags (like this one) should suffice. I'm also going to order this Torx T15 bit, which is 6" long. According to my phone (oddly I don't have any rulers/tape measure around here) that should barely work. I've noticed that the Classic now takes a while to boot into the System Software. It will show the Simasimac condition until it decides to boot. Sometimes it boots right away as soon as you
  9. Ok. I will do this when I get a bit long enough to fit down inside the handle. So just push down on one of the screws in the handle while pulling up on the handle with my other hand? What is the dimensions of the Mac Classic logic board? I also need to purchase ESD protection bags for when I ship the logic board to get it recapped.
  10. Thanks everyone for the replies. I will return the T15 bit and extender I bought and purchase a long one from Amazon or something. I need to get ESD static-protective bags anyways for shipping the logic board. To separate the halves of the case, all I need to do is leave the screws partially in (with the screen facing down) and jiggle the case until it comes loose, then remove the screws the rest of the way. Will that possibly do any damage?
  11. After about 6-7 years of wanting a vintage Mac, I finally acquired one. It's a 1991 Macintosh Classic. It works, but obviously needs some work as these untouched vintage Macs need. Also, I don't have an ADB keyboard or mouse, so I haven't been able to go through the system and find out more about it. My first step of business is to open it up to remove the PRAM battery and get it recapped. Someone on the Macintosh Enthusiast Facebook group told me he could recap the board for a pretty fair price, and I'm definitely going to take him up on that offer. However, I'm having issues just
  12. Why does the bezel going into the CRT look strange? Is that the MacGlare Guard Plus?
  13. Garrett

    Books

    That $2 bill is from 1986. I'm not familiar with Canadian currency, it is sort of fun to see what currency looks like from other countries.
  14. Couldn't resist sharing this. There is a common misconception, especially in vintage computer newbies, that only the red Maxell batteries can leak. Proof that even the purple/green Taridans (sp) can leak:
  15. Yes. It was supposed to be funny. Maybe I just try too hard to be "funny"... And yes, I understand that before 1943 there were no computers except for Enigma machines and the like. I'm not sure when those were invented.
  16. The issue with the old computers (pre-1943) is they just couldn't network like a modern computer can. You couldn't plug an ethernet cable into them and their memory system was horrible. And entering data on something other than a piece of paper was difficult. You couldn't even use a reel-to-reel with them. Or maybe they networked too well with other computers. But they didn't like having add-on cards stuck in them. lol
  17. My grandparents have a complete collection of world books dating from 1963 and 1996. Of course, the PC revolution took off in the 80s, so I thought it would be captured in the World Books. But was I wrong... The world book was for 1984 (sent in 1985?) and it featured an Apple ///, but made no mention of the Macintosh like it never even was released. In fact, the world books from the later 1980s and 1990s made no mention of the Macintosh, but made plenty of mention of the IBM PC and IBM-clone markets. No mention of smaller companies like NeXT or Dell, though
  18. F1, U29 (the CUDA chip), S1, and UF8 all look like they need to be replaced. Don't know about anything else. You may have got lucky, as at least it isn't a ROM chip. Thankfully, the damage looks like it stayed pretty localized to that area and wasn't a very violent explosion. Good luck, and if I were you and it still didn't work - try substituting it with a LC575 logic board as others have suggested.
  19. Sorry if that was a dumb reply. But somebody should make parts for vintage Macs even "modern" enough like the iMac G3, because the Apple inventories are long gone for computers like the iMac G3 and there are not too many NOS parts out there.
  20. Why not just buy a pair of headphones and plug them into the headphone jack or buy some cheap computer speakers to replace them with? You just would have to plug them into the audio out jack and you'd be up and running.
  21. Totally possible, but slow. When I interned at the local newspaper office where I wrote articles on a Mac mini powered by a G4 processor (it was the original MacMini from 2005.) While it was extremely slow (although many times faster than a similarly aged IBM desktop model running Windows XP) it still got the work done, and I could fairly decently access the internet using the thing without any major problems. It rendered most websites correctly with some minor issues (due to either the low resolution of the CRT monitor it was connected to, or the old OS and processor that could not handle new
  22. Why would someone buy a $1,000-$3,000 computer and never use it and leave it in it's box for like 20 years? That has always amazed me....
  23. Do you have a BatteriesPlus or a similar battery store near you? If so, they may be the best option for changing the cells in the battery as they know how to do it properly.
  24. But it isn't like the world is going to explode or something in 2038, like previously thought in 2000, right? I've got extreme thanatophobia, so I'm kind of lucky that I was just an infant during the Y2K chaos, and I wasn't alive through the Cold War.
  25. Well, weren't the 68k Macs not Y2K compliant anyways? So wouldn't it just reset to 1958 or something like that? But it isn't like the world is going to explode or something in 2038, like previously thought in 2000?
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