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Franklinstein

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Everything posted by Franklinstein

  1. Judging by the huge rust stain in the pictures upthread I'm going to guess there's probably some damage to the logic board, likely from damp storage, severely leaked caps, and/or an exploded PRAM battery. I'd probably remove, inspect, and clean the board and case before I continued trying to get it working.
  2. Yes WD drives preferred that Single setting for years. Usually in a PC they would work if set to Master/Slave as a single drive but they would case the POST to take forever as the system waited for the non-existent second drive to respond. I don't know first-hand how a Mac would respond in that case. Maybe the pre-G3 models would ignore it but perhaps the beige G3s would get fussy? Especially the Rev. B or C ROM models that supported master/slave IDE.
  3. I have one that works (or at least, did a couple months ago) but its display plastics are a bit ruined so I don't use it much.
  4. Catalyst was kind of a short-lived platform: Apple only used it for the 7200/8200 and the processors on those were soldered with the only upgrade option being an elusive Sonnet PCI card-based product. PowerComputing made the bulk of Catalyst models it seems and they appear to have used normal processor daughtercards. So no, the L2-based upgrades for Alchemy won't work in a Catalyst, but a PowerComputing Catalyst-based machine should be able to use a typical Newer or Sonnet daughtercard (though you'll need to check the specs to ensure the card you want to use is supported; some of the PowerComp
  5. The 575 supports both 24 and 32-bit addressing and the system defaults to 24 bit if, say, the PRAM battery is dead/missing. Versions of Mac OS after System 7.5 do not like 24-bit addressing. So, if you're cold-booting a 575 with System 7.6 it will start up, switch to 32-bit addressing, and reboot again before it loads the desktop.
  6. PowerBook power supplies are a pain. The 500 series is especially bad, both because it was a one-off power supply so it's difficult to get replacements, especially with the dual 16v power rails that it seems to supply, and also because the plastic is brittle and doesn't like to come apart without breaking. Inside it's packed tightly so it's not easy to replace the caps even if you do get it open. However ISTR something turned up on a Google search about someone splicing a generic 16v power supply into the 500's plug on VMAIN while ignoring the battery voltage supply. It worked but of course ba
  7. I have one that kind of went out like that about 10 years ago: it became unstable and had problems with boot and then just quit. I never figured it out. Could just need a power supply board recap/repair or it could be more severe. Anyway the processor is soldered on those which limits troubleshooting and upgrade options. Usually the broken glass sound is a hard crash early in the boot process. Possibly a fault with cache memory? I figure the machine would just continue to boot while ignoring cache (as many Macs will boot with bad RAM, simply ignoring it) but maybe the Kanga is too
  8. I had to put a 3.3v regulator on the line to get it to work. I don't know how people supposedly got theirs to work without it but mine don't. I figure the onboard regulator on the Gazelle boards is either a backup or auxiliary rather than intended to be a primary supply. Also, the pre-PCI models have a slightly different power line pinout on the harness that uses three ground wires where the PCI models swaps one of those wire into a 3.3v supply, which explains the no-boot and bad smell when I attempted to slot a PCI board into a pre-PCI chassis (you're essentially running ground to
  9. I used to have one but I think it has been lost to time, probably during a DIY move when someone decided it was too heavy or bulky or whatever. It really looked great with my 6100 at the time, too. Oh well. Most Apple displays were decent but a handful of the Performa units used Goldstar (nee LG) shadow-mask CRTs and these were less than stellar, looking more at home alongside an ACER or even cheaper PC than the period Macs they supported (usually 62/63xx models). I have an Apple 21" Color Display that I picked up (with some difficulty: it's awkwardly bulky and weighs 8
  10. For me it's a question of value, mostly: do I need to spend $500 on top of whatever else has been sunk into the device (assuming prior max RAM upgrades and SCSI2SD or whatever) just to... make Asteroids run so quickly that I basically die as soon as the screen loads? To be able to scroll through a Lotus 123 spreadsheet so fast the screen is just a blur? To (attempt to) render FaceBook or other modern website on a 512x384 b&w screen (or external high-res screen, for some reason)? I mean, what's the utility here? Why would I need a quantum leap in performance and tons of new features for my
  11. There were at least 5 different connectors that could have been used to plug an LED into a hard drive over the years. Usually the SE/30 had one of the larger styles that may have gone onto that drive's connector but if it did it wouldn't have been a good fit. Most likely you're missing the cable from the LED because it was removed indelicately when the original drive was replaced; that IBM drive was never standard equipment in an SE/30 as they usually had full-height drives such as the Quantum ProDrive 40-100MB models, but also the non-factory mounting bracket and the drive's Apple sticker dat
  12. I actually used one of the little M.2 SSDs on an IDE adapter in my iBook G3. The adapter itself was about $10. The whole assembly is about the same height and half the length of a standard 2.5" hard drive. I used some double-stick tape to hold it in place after it was reconnected to the ATA cable (you can't reuse any of the original hard drive mounts with one of these adapters). To try to rule out major iBook problems, see if you can find an external FW disk drive and install the OS to that (just delete the internal drive's partitions in Drive Setup and ignore it). If it works, yo
  13. You didn't bend a pin, did you? Check the connector and try to reinsert. The CPU daughter card needs a fairly firm hand to reinsert so maybe check to make sure it's positioned correctly and press harder. Not like HULK SMASH but just a few pounds of even pressure over the connector. Also make sure it's not hung up on the RAM card supports or anything. Check that you didn't dislodge the display cable. Maybe use headphones to check if it's making a startup sound. Did the keyboard cables come undone? Maybe use an external keyboard to try to turn it on. If you ha
  14. Yep. AFAIK all of them did since there were no workstation counterparts like the WGS 95 had. Mine had its original two 1GB IBM hard drives installed on the really long 7-connector SCSI cable. I think it was supposed to use a software RAID or something.
  15. So I actually have a 9150/120. It's pretty beastly, just as imposing as a Q950 but with a few external changes that modernize it to more closely match the styling of the 6100 and 7100, including the relocated and now manual-inject floppy drive whose original home is occupied by a new CDROM (the former tape drive bay is still available for use if not occupied; mine's empty). These were one of those rare machines where it was available only as a WGS without a workstation counterpart. You could sort of count the WGS 95 in the same category since its special WGS cache card was unique to the server
  16. The grayscale screen is also a little thinner than the color one and has a unique design on the back compared to the fatter color screens. If you want to use the computer in bright light or possibly outdoors, Grayscale is usually better than color because it has fewer filters to drown out the display. Also supposedly the grayscale has slightly better battery life (probably just in minutes and a moot point anymore but still a consideration for true road warriors back in the day). Otherwise the C and CS screens from a 5300 will swap straight over assuming the case doesn't splinter into ever more
  17. Sadly these things are a bit touchy so if they decide they want to be recalcitrant the only option is to either swap parts until it works or just give up. Without in-depth troubleshooting data and precision soldering tools available there isn't much that the average hobbyist can do to fix a component-level failure on these. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a bad fuse or broken resistor or something but more often than not there's a fault somewhere that you can't see, let alone access, and most of the chips on the board are custom and/or NLA, so even if you did have a $10k SMT rework statio
  18. Nice. Where did you buy it? Motorola was a major licensee of Apple and was permitted to sublicense to others such as Tatung, APC, Centralen Norrland, etc, so there were several makes with the same case but a different badge. The lack of badging here suggests it was sold in Europe by unauthorized resellers just after Apple decided to kill cloners: Motorola passed off all of their unsold computers to European vendors like Computer Warehouse and PowerCity (mentioned previously) for resale in overseas markets where Apple didn't have quite so much reach to be able to shut them down, at least not be
  19. Back in the day the SWIM chip was available as an upgrade part; I think it's listed by model number in one of Larry Pina's books. The SE could also be upgraded to FDHD in the same manner. Offhand I don't know the various revisions of the SWIM and which were compatible where, but it's possible you could pull a SWIM from a junk board (probably SE FDHD, SE/30, or other member of the II family) and install it in yours. It should be a PLCC-type chip so just make sure the leads are clean after you desolder it (if necessary) and it should drop straight into the socket on the II's logic board.
  20. Caps are definitely becoming a problem on these earlier drives so if it's being really crazy or not powering up at all, that's probably item #1 to fix. Smokers kill the things in short order too since the smoke leaves a brown haze all over everything inside the drive, even seeping deep into the optical block and covering not only the lens but the prism, the diode, and the pickup sensor. Generally these things can't be cleaned so if the drive is filled with tar it's not really worth the effort. Occasionally, if the laser diode and pickup still work but the drive has problems with disc
  21. If you're lucky the 150 has either its RAM adaptor or expanded RAM installed already because if it has neither it's basically impossible to go beyond 4MB these days: the 150 used a special L adapter so that it could use Duo RAM modules which saved on production costs but the adapters weren't included with the computer, which saved more costs up-front but drove up the cost and difficulty of an upgrade. As mentioned, they have native ATA support internally. Because these things are so old I don't recommend doing anything too crazy, both because you won't really be able to effectively
  22. The 500 series was the first of the PowerBooks to use the familiar brown plastic-encased 3-wire rechargeable batteries instead of the old soldered button cells (or the removable multi-cell arrangement of the 100 or the 9v used by the Portable). They live above one of the batteries in the top case behind a clip-in retainer. Complete disassembly is required to get to it though since you need to remove pretty much everything to get the top case off. As long as you don't Hulk torque any of the fasteners the plastics on those hold up pretty well, save for the display mounts, and even those wouldn't
  23. The blue crystalline material and the exposed yellowy plastic of the inner frame near where the battery used to live suggests you've had more of a leak than you suspect. It doesn't look too severe but there may still be a little bit of contamination somewhere. You may have jarred the processor card loose. I recommend removing it entirely (should be 4 screws) and reseating it, pressing very firmly along the flat back area above the twin connectors. Also let the computer sit for a day or three without power and/or plug it in and repeatedly hold down the reset button for 60 seconds un
  24. The VRAM on those is in an unfortunate location under the keyboard and can often be found with crumbs and other junk stuck to the leads and discrete components nearby, and the display header lives near the itty bitty fan, which also can have a bunch of dirt around it. Maybe a good cleaning will sort it out? Otherwise those logic boards are very very dense and it's difficult to identify where things go. You can try applying pressure to various points to see if that helps (broken solder joints) but I don't have any other suggestions; it's hard to fix those things without just replaci
  25. Here's some more info: The jumpers on the back of the card with speed labels do absolutely nothing; they're just there for quick reference while actual setting of the PLL is done elsewhere on the card. Most were 300 or 350MHz; 400MHz cards were never officially shipped (if ever). These cards were developed to use the 604ev Mach 5 processor, IBM's latest chip and the fastest of the 604 variants, capable of supporting up to a 100MHz bus. Of course, no Macs of that era could support a 100MHz bus, so they had to do some tricks: these were designed with what's called an inline cach
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