Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Franklinstein

  • Birthday January 20

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Macs, Japanese cars, disco

Profile Fields

    Network infrastructure technician

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Probably just clean the contacts on both the fan and analog board. Maybe bend the fan's contacts outward slightly if there are still occasional running problems. Other than blowing out dust there isn't much to be done maintenance-wise. Depending on how dusty it is I would do a partial disassembly to clean out the floppy and CD drives but that's a little more intensive.
  2. Your floppy drive doesn't work? Maybe try repeatedly pressing the tiny switches at the front of the drive to see if it comes alive that way. Sometimes those switches become oxidized and they don't register that a disk is inserted, is writable or read-only, or whether it's DD/HD (depending on which switch isn't working). Otherwise you may want to try a different drive and/or a different logic board. You may just want to go on eBay and find a ruined PB complete for parts; it may be cheaper and easier than going piecemeal.
  3. Two things: 1. You'll need another Mac with a working video system to flash the card. 2. Sometimes the PC version shipped with a flash chip that was too small to hold the Mac BIOS, so if you tried to flash it to Mac it would brick the card. It has been several years since I tried to do this (and I used the Millennium II models) so I don't remember the exact process or if there were ways to get around an undersize Flash chip without replacing it.
  4. Judging by the huge rust stain in the pictures upthread I'm going to guess there's probably some damage to the logic board, likely from damp storage, severely leaked caps, and/or an exploded PRAM battery. I'd probably remove, inspect, and clean the board and case before I continued trying to get it working.
  5. Yes WD drives preferred that Single setting for years. Usually in a PC they would work if set to Master/Slave as a single drive but they would case the POST to take forever as the system waited for the non-existent second drive to respond. I don't know first-hand how a Mac would respond in that case. Maybe the pre-G3 models would ignore it but perhaps the beige G3s would get fussy? Especially the Rev. B or C ROM models that supported master/slave IDE.
  6. I have one that works (or at least, did a couple months ago) but its display plastics are a bit ruined so I don't use it much.
  7. Catalyst was kind of a short-lived platform: Apple only used it for the 7200/8200 and the processors on those were soldered with the only upgrade option being an elusive Sonnet PCI card-based product. PowerComputing made the bulk of Catalyst models it seems and they appear to have used normal processor daughtercards. So no, the L2-based upgrades for Alchemy won't work in a Catalyst, but a PowerComputing Catalyst-based machine should be able to use a typical Newer or Sonnet daughtercard (though you'll need to check the specs to ensure the card you want to use is supported; some of the PowerComp
  8. The 575 supports both 24 and 32-bit addressing and the system defaults to 24 bit if, say, the PRAM battery is dead/missing. Versions of Mac OS after System 7.5 do not like 24-bit addressing. So, if you're cold-booting a 575 with System 7.6 it will start up, switch to 32-bit addressing, and reboot again before it loads the desktop.
  9. PowerBook power supplies are a pain. The 500 series is especially bad, both because it was a one-off power supply so it's difficult to get replacements, especially with the dual 16v power rails that it seems to supply, and also because the plastic is brittle and doesn't like to come apart without breaking. Inside it's packed tightly so it's not easy to replace the caps even if you do get it open. However ISTR something turned up on a Google search about someone splicing a generic 16v power supply into the 500's plug on VMAIN while ignoring the battery voltage supply. It worked but of course ba
  10. I have one that kind of went out like that about 10 years ago: it became unstable and had problems with boot and then just quit. I never figured it out. Could just need a power supply board recap/repair or it could be more severe. Anyway the processor is soldered on those which limits troubleshooting and upgrade options. Usually the broken glass sound is a hard crash early in the boot process. Possibly a fault with cache memory? I figure the machine would just continue to boot while ignoring cache (as many Macs will boot with bad RAM, simply ignoring it) but maybe the Kanga is too
  11. I had to put a 3.3v regulator on the line to get it to work. I don't know how people supposedly got theirs to work without it but mine don't. I figure the onboard regulator on the Gazelle boards is either a backup or auxiliary rather than intended to be a primary supply. Also, the pre-PCI models have a slightly different power line pinout on the harness that uses three ground wires where the PCI models swaps one of those wire into a 3.3v supply, which explains the no-boot and bad smell when I attempted to slot a PCI board into a pre-PCI chassis (you're essentially running ground to
  12. I used to have one but I think it has been lost to time, probably during a DIY move when someone decided it was too heavy or bulky or whatever. It really looked great with my 6100 at the time, too. Oh well. Most Apple displays were decent but a handful of the Performa units used Goldstar (nee LG) shadow-mask CRTs and these were less than stellar, looking more at home alongside an ACER or even cheaper PC than the period Macs they supported (usually 62/63xx models). I have an Apple 21" Color Display that I picked up (with some difficulty: it's awkwardly bulky and weighs 8
  13. For me it's a question of value, mostly: do I need to spend $500 on top of whatever else has been sunk into the device (assuming prior max RAM upgrades and SCSI2SD or whatever) just to... make Asteroids run so quickly that I basically die as soon as the screen loads? To be able to scroll through a Lotus 123 spreadsheet so fast the screen is just a blur? To (attempt to) render FaceBook or other modern website on a 512x384 b&w screen (or external high-res screen, for some reason)? I mean, what's the utility here? Why would I need a quantum leap in performance and tons of new features for my
  14. There were at least 5 different connectors that could have been used to plug an LED into a hard drive over the years. Usually the SE/30 had one of the larger styles that may have gone onto that drive's connector but if it did it wouldn't have been a good fit. Most likely you're missing the cable from the LED because it was removed indelicately when the original drive was replaced; that IBM drive was never standard equipment in an SE/30 as they usually had full-height drives such as the Quantum ProDrive 40-100MB models, but also the non-factory mounting bracket and the drive's Apple sticker dat
  15. I actually used one of the little M.2 SSDs on an IDE adapter in my iBook G3. The adapter itself was about $10. The whole assembly is about the same height and half the length of a standard 2.5" hard drive. I used some double-stick tape to hold it in place after it was reconnected to the ATA cable (you can't reuse any of the original hard drive mounts with one of these adapters). To try to rule out major iBook problems, see if you can find an external FW disk drive and install the OS to that (just delete the internal drive's partitions in Drive Setup and ignore it). If it works, yo
  • Create New...