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Westinghouse

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  1. Hi Superjer2000; thanks for the kind words about the case design! I am on here every once in a while. Regarding your issue, I wonder if perhaps there is no longer good contact between the battery and the contacts inside the powerbook. This might not be the case for you (I'm still using my original, before I added the 'lid'), but it would not hurt to check: maybe the case warped a bit under the physical stresses of the cells and cell contacts; I had this to some extent, and I soldered some additional copper over the battery-to-powerbook contacts to ensure good contact.
  2. Hi jinnai; Thanks for the kind comments! The tabs are only there as standoffs to hold the battery secure within the recess against the back of the original sliding case cover. I didn't feel that I'd be able to get the original sliding cover to match up well with a printed tray's sliding cover tracks without doing several rounds of prototyping - and since I don't have a printer of my own, this solution was good enough for my purposes... so the sliding cover from my original battery is a separate part from my printed tray. They also double as fingerholds so th
  3. Any chance it could be the ic in the keyboard?
  4. Done for now: Best I can figure: there's something off in the charging circuit which causes my portable to act up after charging a battery in the bay. If I charge a battery in the portable with the original portable AC adapter, it sometimes gets unstable, and will not boot afterwards for a while. Fortunately, I have the external battery charging tray; charging the battery exclusively on the tray, and not in the portable itself, has been a consistently workable solution for me.
  5. I've had a Newton Keyboard to go along with my MessagePad 2100 for years, and they have always played well together. Today, though, I find that neither shift key on the keyboard is doing anything. Typing input with a shift key depressed yields a lower-case letter (or the 'lower-case' typographical symbol on a key-- ';' instead of ':'). Caps Lock still provides capital letters. Every other key works, including Ctrl, Option and open-Apple. Same behavior when used with an eMate 300. Any ideas as to what might be causing this behavior? Is it likely within the keyboard, or in the serial
  6. I hate to leave a thread like this open ended, in case someone else is pursuing the same issue in the future. I pulled out the portable this weekend, as I finally had some free time to address this issue. I set it up and powered it on to refresh my memory regarding its unusual behaviour. It booted right up -- no problem. It ran solidly all weekend, both off of battery, and off of power adapter. It worked through an HDD init and OS install; it worked though software intstall from floppies; it worked through software install from FloppyEMU; it worked through AppleShare serial file tra
  7. Got my MP2100 in '05; case, keyboard, modem, flash card, power adapter - just over $100 with shipping. It was an experiment at a laptop replacement since one of my laptops had died... real work was done on my desktop, so something for quick notes and sketches was the aim. It was ok in that regard; would have been better in the '90s - connectivity was a problem at the time, but manageable. Email still worked back then (no https), and some WiFi; both are not as workable in a modern context. Got an eMate recently; a seller on eBay local to me has a large stash from a school board. They
  8. Got an LC II + Macintosh Color Display today; it's been a while since anything vintage has come up locally for a reasonable price, and it seems like beige Apple monitors are getting hard to find around here, either alone or with a system.
  9. Thanks -- before put in too much time following traces, is there any info anywhere of which pins are connected between these ICs?
  10. Voltage appears to be stable (on both wires), and the switch in the battery compartment seems to be working correctly. I'm still getting this error.
  11. I'm back: same portable, different issue. I mentioned before that I have been having problems with the hard drive. I've tried a few things; bear with me as I list them out. I had a few successful boots from the drive (with a 6v battery clipped to the battery bay connectors, and the adapter plugged in) before I did anything to the hybrid, though it progressively got less reliable, sometimes crapping out after the initial spin up, only to "catch" on the second spin up. Sometimes it would never get going. I cracked the drive open and cleaned out the goo. It all appeared localized to t
  12. If I had one, I might. My SE/30 came without one.
  13. Well, the resistor across pins 16 and 18 send to have done the trick! It now properly indicates charging, and charging cuts off when the battery is full. I even got a rare boot off of the failing hard drive (degraded seal is removed, heads only seek every once in a while). Thanks for the assistance!
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