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About Elfen

  • Birthday 02/02/1963

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  • Gender
  • Location
    NYC, NY
  • Interests
    Classic Macs, Classic PCs, Classic cars...

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  1. Just a couple of questions: Which Apple IIc was it? Is this some 3rd party diagnostic software, as I never seen it, only the Built-in ROM RAM Test on some IIc's have. Which chip(s) was it? I remember Adrian Black on his Youtube Video fix an Iffy IIc with Bad RAM, the on ROM RAM Test gave out a binary code as to which chip was bad, BUT this code was in reverse to the chip location on the board. If the code was 1 0 0 0 0 0 0, the chip was on the extreme right of its bank.
  2. This is an "Unenhanced" IIe; with the older II+ (like) ROMs and a 6502 and not the 65C02. I remember seeing many of these in the NYC School System I worked before before an Enhanced Kit was sent to each school containing the "New ROM" and the 65C02. For the Home/Business user, they could have sent their Apple IIe for the ROM and CPU Upgrade but for schools, the School Tech usually did it (in many cases at a couple school districts - it was me :P). Later Years with the Big Apple User's group (NYC) I ran into a few unenhanced Apple IIe's BUT they did have the 65C02, some
  3. No change as in No Boot and No Video? You are going to have to go in with a multimeter and check for a broken trace around the caps. Also look carefully as some traces goes under a cap but not connect to it but connect to other areas; the Cap Goo can eat away at these traces as well. You may have to remove the cap to inspect the path of the trace but that maybe on 25% of all the caps and traces you may need to inspect. If the trace is broken, just run a thin wire from its start to end points. A large magnifying glass or a pair of magnifying glasses would be helpful to t
  4. It would be easier to go with saying what symptoms your board(s) are having and deduce what parts you need. The usual suspects are the flyback transformer and the components around it. Next are the cracked solder joints at those components and at the jacks where the CRT and Logic board plugs into. Then there are a few parts after that, like an Isolinear coupler in around the socket for the logic board. Get a copy of Dead Mac Scrolls and Upgrade and Repair Secrets for the Mac Classic, both by Larry Pina. You can find them both online.
  5. Lovely schematics, BTW, PotShotScott... Now, unless I'm misreading this, U10 and U11 are the sound amplifier chips on the board, U10 being the Left Channel and U11 being the Right Channel. C6 is the cap for U11's Sound A/D Channel, but is it input or output? From the looks of it, it being an A/D (Analog/Digital) channel, to me it looks like Input. So guessing, Sound Input is being taken to ground. this makes sense as the SE\30 is one of those early Mac with no Sound Input capability. But this is all a guess. (I also notice that the chips use 12V and not 5V). You can tes
  6. The 68K and PPC Mac will load the file in its entirety into RAM. Lets take this example: You have MS Word 6.5 (made up for the example), and it is a FAT file with both 68K and PPC code and resources in it. It is (lets say) 8mb in size. You double click that icon, and it will load the entire program - the entire 8MB with both the 68K and PPC code and resources into RAM and the program defines where the CPU goes within the program as needed as per a CPU test in the very beginning. With this program taking up 8MB of RAM, it will also take up 8MB of Virtual RAM on the hard drive if you have that
  7. I have heard of this "PSU Hack" and though I think it is great I'm a bit weary of it. I need to see more of it being used on Dead PSU Systems before I am no longer chicken poop about it... Glad it works. Congrats.
  8. THAT'S CHEATING!!! (J/K-LOL!) Congrats on the good work. Now to blow your mind... Get/Find PPC/FAT Checker program (also goes by PPC/68K Checker), its a shareware program that allows you to look at you 68K and PPC code on such programs that runs/installs on both systems. Since it is on a 68K machine, use it to remove the PPC Code and Resources from the System and Finder. This will reduce the size of the OS files by 35% to 50%. With the PPC Code reduced, the system will take up a lot less room in RAM and run a bit faster as it does not have to access Virtual Memory as much from t
  9. All B/W in Classic Macs, including the Classic Series all suffer from such issues. Seems to me that the voltages are a bit off, but I believe it is something pulling them down, in the high voltage section of the board. Things to do are: ...Excuse me as I am doing this blind without a schematic so I can't say the actual parts numbers... 1) check and resolder cracked solder joints. DO NOT REFLOW THE SOLDER BY HEATING THEM! Desolder the old solder, clean up the area with Alcohol and Acetone, and use fresh new flux and solder on the board. 2) (Should
  10. Not to arm wrestle this thread, but on the IDE Bus, comparing a PATA SSD with a CF on an IDE/ATA Adapter, using KingSpec SSDs, I find this oddity - the KingSpec PATA SSD is slower than a SanDisk 200X CF Card but the KingSpec PATA II is faster than the SanDisk 200X CF. Edit: Mind you, I had been doing this SSD and CF Experiment since 2005 or so and saying this on such old data.
  11. I'm thinking its a logic board or other connected item on the system drawing too much power from the PSU. Disconnect the fan, hard drive and floppy drive and see if it works without those things. If not, it might be a bad/shorted item on the logic board, usually a cap.
  12. I've seen/owned skinny/fat Macs with DIY fan kits in them to keep their analog boards cool. So I would recommend one. The Logic board draws little power compared to the analog board. 90% of all B/W 68K Mac problems start there.
  13. If pads lifted, you need to go to each one and check if the connections are intact from both ends with a multimeter. I got a Mute Classic II, which I recapped years ago. It had the jail bars, then the grey screen then on checking the connections of the lifted pads, I ran a couple short wires to remake the connections. Then it turned on but with no "BONG!" The Cap Goo ate up a lot of the traces from the Audio Section. It's fixable but I had not had the time to fix it but at least I got it to work and boot to desktop!
  14. Broken? That is Mouse or Rat teeth marks gnawing on your cable. The good thing is they did not gnaw through the cable to beak the wires. But lower down I can see a square crimp like something was on the cable hard. That could break the cable. You would need to check the cable with a multimeter and see if all the connections are OK. Looking at the head, even though it is a blank label cable, it looks like a Modem Cable to me. "Geo-(something) Gold" sold their modem with a similar looking cable. It may not work with the printer unless you play with the switches as the wires inside
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