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About didius

  • Birthday 11/30/1985

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  1. I've measured some of the pinout, I know where the grounds are, found two +12V, a +5V, a +3.3V. Sound kinda tricky though. I guess I'll look for another 15" Studio Display, might try this generic dual inverter as a project. (long term project though) Thanks for the info techknight!
  2. I've measured a thing or two today. I started by desoldering the cap on the inverter, it doesn't seem broken since it measured 47 muF as it should. I resolder the joints on the film capacitors. Problem remained. Then I started measuring the voltages as provided in the service manual. ADC is giving +25V to the main board instead of the +28V as noted in the manual. I guess it differs between graphic cards (?) the U5 IC on the main board gave +11.9V (should be +12V) OK connections 1 and 2 on the J3 connector (main board side) both measured +12V (as it should) I guess the main board
  3. I have a 15" Apple studio display hooked up to my cube. Some months ago I noticed the bottom half of the screen being dim and a the led error blink sequence "short - short - short". According to Apple it means "video output wrong" but the display shows the same error code when hooked up the a powermac G4 MDD, unlikey error it seems. I decided to open the display and check it's internal organs. Nothing seems wrong, but I noticed the following. I took both light bulbs out and connected them to the inverter. The top bulb is working, and when I switched the bulbs, the bottom bulb (conn
  4. I don't own a Quicksilver, but xlr8yourmac seems to have a great number of articles on the Quicksilver fan. Like this one: http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/quicksilver_CPU_fan_mod/quicksilver_cpu_fan_noise.html
  5. @TimHD: I bought the following one: ebay I must admit the solderjob is not perfect, maybe I will apply some more solder to the joins which have to little (my opinion). It works fine though.
  6. You can get it very cheaply on eBay, I got mine imported from china for about € 4, works fine.
  7. I find PATA SSD very expensive (in price per MB) and hard to get. This adapter solution works great.
  8. I bought the spirica heatsink years ago (when it still was in stock). Here you can see some pictures of it. I don't have it cooled with a fan though, I have a fan on the bottom of my cube instead. (actually, someone should copy the spirica heatsink as an open design, then it could be cnc-milled at makerspaces)
  9. I want to upgrade my G4 cube and put a SSD drive in it. Fitting the drive and it's SATA-IDE adapter isn't that easy because of the Cube's compactness. Which led me to design a bracket, download it on thingiverse . It fit's the cube nicely, both bottom and topbracket. PS: I also made an Radeon 7500 bracket for the cube.
  10. I have done it, see https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/20661-imac-g3-dv-se-recapping/ A lot of work though.
  11. I looked further into the problem. Using the following pinout I checked the PSU. When trickling the power supply I got all the correct readings. I guess the PSU is fine. I went to check the motherboard and noticed two things. 1) On the backside one cap connection seems to be bad. I noticed some goo-like material which could imply bad caps. 2) Strange! On the motherboard just below the pile of caps there seems to be a missing component. Removed? By whom? Does anyone know what component used to be present here? Is it possible to resolder such a component back in? What do you th
  12. Okay, I guess I should prepare for a full recap. I see all the caps are Rubycon, aren't these high quality caps? And does this somewhat later version of the iMac G5 still suffered a lot from this bad cap problem?
  13. Wouldn't the iMac refuse to give any signs of life it that were the case? Is it possible to check the pinouts of this powersupply before I bust it open? Could someone point me to the correct pinout, I don't know if there is a lot of difference between the models (ALS vs ordinary iMac) in terms of PSU
  14. I got an iMac G5 2.0Ghz (ALS) from a friend which doesn't boot. When I push the power-on button the front light turns on, and the fan starts spinning. I don't hear the happy mac sound though. After a while the fan starts spinning very hard. All this time the screen doesn't turn on. I've opened the back and here a look at the interior: The caps are not bulged and don't appear faulty. When inserting the power cord led 1 turns on, pushing the power button makes led 2 turn on. Led 3 and 4 don't turn on. What do you think? The person who gave it to me said a computer supplie
  15. Okay, I give. How’d you do that? I used a sharp knife to carefully pry it open. After the fix it is possible to glue it back together. You can't see it afterwards.
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