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nightingale

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  1. When I opened up my mouse, I was surprised by the simplicity of it. The 1982 date would mean this mouse was used for the Apple II series. I assume the additional components on your model must be intended to improve the accuracy of the mouse. Every other mouse I've looked at the inside of has at least one chip, so presumably this was an improvement over the earlier design. It does appear that the IR diode remained the same in later models, so hopefully that means it will be easier to find a replacement. I picked up a new soldering iron this weekend, so I'll be attempting to deconstr
  2. Okay, I'm getting you now. I also talked to my brother-in-law who is an Engineer, and he helped me understand some of the principles at work here. When I put my meter on the resistor and the ground pin, my meter was completing the circuit, not the LED, which is why there was minimal current, and why I was getting the 5V reading. I get what you're saying about the LED opening the circuit. So I am quite confident now that the problem is with the LED. I will try just resoldering this one in case it's a bad connection, otherwise I'm off to go find some other mice to see if
  3. So I just gave everything a good cleaning with 99% IPA. What a difference, there was much more gunk on there than I realized. Much easier getting readings now. Double checked everything. Still getting 5V between CR2 and GND instead of the expected 1.2V. I don't believe anything is shorted anywhere. And I'm now about to butcher all the proper terminology here, but hopefully everyone can get my meaning... If I'm understanding you correctly, there may not be enough current flowing through the trace, which results in the voltage not dropping through the resistor.
  4. Okay, so I think I'm making some progress. As I'm not an electrical whiz, I'm hoping someone can tell me if I seem to be on the right track. I powered on the Plus and checked some readings on the mouse. I'm getting 5V on the 5V pin. So far so good. The power for the LEDs go through 620 ohm resistors. Three of the four LEDs are reading approximately 1.2 volts, so the resistors seem to be doing their job. However CR2 ("UP") is getting 5V. So it is getting too much voltage. However, when I test the resistance on the four resistors, they all read 607 ohms, which is within t
  5. Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. Mechanically, everything is working fine. I've hooked the cable back up to the board and booted the computer. I can move the wheel for left/right movement and it works, but when I move the wheel for up/down it still gives nothing. I tried looking through the phone camera to see if it could see the sensors lighting up, but it didn't work. I guess that narrows it down to the sensor(s) -- does anyone know if this was a common component in mice that might be widely available from any old donor mouse, or were they Apple speci
  6. So I recently acquired an Apple M0100 mouse to go with my recently acquired Macintosh Plus. I can move the mouse from left to right, and I can click, but I cannot move the mouse up or down. I disassembled the mouse and gave it a good cleaning. I also checked the continuity for all of the pins and verified that the cable is good. I also checked all of the traces, and they all seem to be good. The only thing I can think of is that the actual sensors that detect the movement for up/down may be bad? But is seems like quite a coincidence that both up and down would be bad... I don't see
  7. Yup! That did it! Set the jumper to Master and OS 9 recognized it and initialized it as soon as I booted up.
  8. Okay I'll give that a try later today, I had them set on "Cable Select" so we'll see if setting them to Master does the trick. I have tested these in an external enclosure and I know the drives work.
  9. So the original IDE drive in my Power Mac 5400 is failing, and so I'm trying to replace it with a new, non-Apple, IDE hard drive. I've tried a Maxtor 20GB IDE drive and a Seagate 250GB IDE drive. When I boot from the Mac OS 9.1 install CD, Disk Setup will not recognize either drive. I've read that it may be because the Apple version of Drive Setup will only recognize Apple hard drives, so I've been trying to get a copy of FWB Hard Disk Toolkit working. So far I have not had luck getting a bootable CD of it to work. But a lot of the information about this utility talks about SCSI drives, so I'm
  10. Also, if I remember correctly, when entering the DNS server, in addition to entering the ip address, you have to enter "." under domain name or you will get an error.
  11. Damn it! I just realized my kid was playing with the brightness knob before I turned it back on. So the good news is I have a perfectly working se/30 with upgraded RAM. The bad news is that I'm the knob in this situation.
  12. So I just took apart my SE/30 to upgrade the RAM, and upon reassembly of the machine, I have no video! The machine boots up normally, and I can even connect to it trough AppleShare from another machine. The CRT is not even getting power. I opened it up again, and all of the connections seem to be tight, but I'm a bit uncomfortable getting too close to the CRT. I'm hoping someone can point me in the direction of what I should be checking. It was working perfectly before this! Hope someone can help!
  13. Yeah, when I was making my list of macs I wanted to acquire, I flip-flopped back and forth between the 575 and the 580... but since this one fell into my lap... 580 it is! I bid on a PDS ethernet card, partially because the same seller had a teardrop mouse and 5 phonenet adapters that I wanted... so good opportunity to save on shipping. Is there a performance difference between using a PDS ethernet card or a comm slot ethernet card? Does using a PDS card cripple performance, like it did in earlier LCs?
  14. I'm in Dartmouth. Dang! I just bid on a card yesterday. Oh well, if I don't win the auction I'll track you down!
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