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Everything posted by 8tto

  1. Hi! To use the Color Classic with the 575 logicboard without hardware modifications, you need to hack the system software before it will boot. Look here: https://colourclassicfaq.com/mobo/mystic.shtml You can do the ResEdit trick and system install from the PowerBook to make a bootable Zip-disc. If the HD in the Color Classic is good you probably also could put it inside the CD300 cabinet to make a temporary external scsi-HD and connect it to the PowerBook? In the end you will want a replacement floppy drive- I’ve made a bootable floppy with system 7.1 and the right system enabl
  2. This is so cool! Great work and may the fourth be with you!
  3. Hi, all! I`ve previously posted about my Mystic and continued in the same post about my Takky, here. Short story: logicboards and analogboard is fully recapped, my screen picture is at last stable and clear, and the Mac boots happily from a 5400 160mhz LB. The 300mhz 6500 LB, however, only makes a chime and then nothing more, like described here. It starts, and I can do a forced restart, from the keyboard. The 6500 LB used to work before I did the recap. Since last post I`ve given the LB two rounds in the dishwasher with no change in behavior. I`m trying to figure out where to continue loo
  4. Sorry - I missed the “any”... Besides checking the cable and the connector, I’m not much of a help further into the logicbard I hope someone more knowledgeable steps in and you’ll work it out!
  5. Hi! It’s probably a stuck keyswitch on the keyboard that needs a cleaning? Some electronic cleaner might do the trick, but if that isn’t enough you might have to try disensamble the keyswitch and clean the inside. I haven’t tried this on a Plus keyboard but there might be instructions somewhere on the net. There’s also a couple of caps inside the keyboard that might need to be replaced. @JDW has a nice video on the subject - I don’t remember if there’s instructions for cleaning in this video.
  6. You can try both motherboards to rule out faults on the original motherboard. As fare as I know the 550 also should work without further modifications on hardware or in software. Edit: The 575 would probably boot, but not give any video on the screen without hacking the system software?
  7. I recaped my Colour Classic analogboard and found the PL2 pot (VG2) had to be reduced to let the machine boot. My guess was that the recap changed the voltage to healthy levels and my old previous setting was to high for the powersupply? PL2 = G2 in the service manual. Somebody who`s into electronics and how the analogcircuit works might have an answer.
  8. I saw JDWs excellent video on recapping the SC20 HD (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qof-Wjj_rWI&feature=youtu.be). Here he demonstrated that one off the new caps actually is to “good” (low ESR), making the transformer next to it make a comparable noise at startup. Could that be something? Edit: I’m not too into electronics and wouldn’t know what and where to measure the inductor coils
  9. Hi, @Franklinstein! Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. Did you figure this out? I have a 6500 mb that have the same problem after recap. It does restart from the keyboard, but wont boot. The HD boots fine with a 5400 mb in the same machine. I haven’t tried with a p-ram battery though.
  10. Hi! The machine shutting down probably was because G2 (voltage?) on the analog board was sett to high after recap. But The 300mhz MB still won`t boot. There`s a nice chime, the HD-spins but doesn`t look for a system folder and the screen stays black. I can reboot the computer from the keyboard. I also tried to boot without RAM and cache - same result As said the 5400 MB still boots fine. I`ve changed all the pots in the Video section (Sub-contrast, Green-drive, Blue-drive, Red background, Green background and Blue background). First boot the blue channel was fine, but the gre
  11. Update: changed both pots for Blue Gain and Blue Background. The blue channel was back for a while and then disappeared again. Am I right assuming the videosignal comes from the analogboard edge connector, through the gray cabel into the white connector to the left in the picture in my last post and out to the CRT-board through the white connector to the left? Ps. Also recapped my 6500- 300mhz motherboard. Forgot to connect the CPU-fan. Boot chime, HD-spinn, no screen and then the machine shut down. Could I have burned the CPU in that short time? My 5400-160mhz MB still works
  12. Yes, it might be. I was wondering if the low voltage from my powerbrick is making these coils struggle at startup? Mine are looking a little better than yours and have a different number on them. But Google won’t help me find our what they are.
  13. I think Phier is the brand name on the trim-pot
  14. Its not dead! Washed the board with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush and rinsed in tap-water (I know this is wrong) and let it dry a couple of days. It booted when put in the powerplug. A shriek from the corner of the MB with caps before booted fine and reached the desktop. The unpolarised ceramic caps in the screen seem to be working fine. But I`m a little disappointed that the screen still has pronounced ghosting and lines. Turns out the contrast knobs on the screen doesn`t do anything (I guess they didn`t before my tinkering either). And my recapped pow
  15. Changed this cap one more time, and the image is stabel again! Still waiting for new pots to see if that fix the blue channel.
  16. Yes, your right! The diameter is to small. Here is pictures of my board with new caps.
  17. Yes, that’s correct. There’s four leads to the plug and four terminals.
  18. Hi! I appreciate your answers! The Duo powerbricks has terminals one the outside for a separate battery charger so it’s not that hard to measure. There’s continuity between the cable and these terminals and no power here either. I tried measuring my known good PowerBook G4 and MacBook Pro powerbricks when plugged in without connecting the laptops, and didn’t find any current. (The G4 one seems to have the same plug and voltage, but I’ve read somewhere here that it’s not compatible with the Duo’s. Is the pin-out different?) So with slim knowledge I’m guessing all of the supplies won’
  19. I`ve later found pictures with caps from the motherboard and screen in different threads here, but not the powersupply. I`ll post the ones I`ve made anyway. C16 is inside a plastic cover and have to have exact dimensions and lead spacing. Altough not inside a plastic cover, measurments on C5 is also critical. Here`s my motherboard with the old caps. I placed the serial port where it was supposed to be. Actually it was only held in plasce with one ground tab only. And here`s the screen: These are plastic encased alu-electrolyt caps according to @techk
  20. Ok, so I’ve tried a recap of the Takky analogboard. I did it halfway through with most of caps marked as important to change according to Branchus Creation here: https://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-cc-analog/ , plus most of the caps inside the video “cage” underneath the flyback. Had to take a brake and order more caps. Meanwhile I tested the board. The screen looked better than ever. Then I heard a “pop” - the Mac and screen was still running fine but I turned it of immediately using the keyboard. Turned out I had the orientation wrong on the 2,2 uf 200V in the middle closest too the vide
  21. Hi! I have a PowerBook 230 with two power bricks. Last time I turned it on was half a year ago, just to see if it still worked before I trying to sell it locally. Then the condition was unchanged from before I put it in storage: all ok, but some flickering on the screen and vertical lines across the screen from white windows. No one was interested in buying. So after reading a lot on this forum about recapping, I thought I might as well give it a try. And of course it was long overdue: the printer port was almost loose from the PCB from corrosion. Just for fun I also recapped one of
  22. I will! The Takky is homemade some twenty years ago. I might have been lucky, but only followed the detailed instructions to do it. I also hacked the chassis to make room for a CS ethernett-card and the TV/video-card. I regret the later now. Analog TV is not that hot in 2020 Also did the VGA mod, but the screen was not that good even before the conversion and thats why I`m working on a recap of the analog board now.
  23. Finished! The keys are usable and a lot better than they where. But still not the best keyboard . I also tried my first retrobrightning: diluted hydroperoxyd in a large kettle, trying to “cook” the parts at 80* C for 4 hours. It’s a lot better than it was, but it’s still more beige/yellow than platinum. In the upper right corner there is a spot from a sticker that shows a more gray colour. In the background my Takky halfway through a recap.
  24. Thanks! And Happy New Year! It looks like it’s the thicker, brass part of the switch that needs to be bent towards the copper leaf to make the contact better. The keyboards were pretty clean inside, but after some dusting - and maybe the disassembly/assembly - the numeric keypad works. I have to work with a lot of the keys still, tough.
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