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AndiS

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  1. Probably not. I can only reach 9,6k reliably with a Mac Classic. A SE/30 should be faster of course, but nowhere near 115k. There is a website stating that 56k are possible with a SE/30 http://www.knubbelmac.de/themen/netzwerke/netzwerkgeschwindigkeit.html (its German but look at the very bottom)
  2. I like to use double-sided adhesive tape. Not the very thin version but the soft and "foamy" type. It is very strong and still can be removed by pushing from the back.
  3. It is good that I read this after trying because I just might not have bothered to. I got one of these for a Mirrored Drive G4 and it works just fine. I put it into the ATA-66 Slot, connected a 120 GB SSD and was able to format and use it without problem. Cloning the system disk and booting from the SSD was also no issue - MacOS 9.2.2 as well as 10.4.8 So at least for late G4s this seems a good and cheap option (just north of 10 Euros). G3s and earlier G4s with their somewhat different/incomplete IDE implementation may be a different story. I have none to test that. No
  4. Check the voltages of the 5V and 12V rail. It can be done from the Floppy port and is described in the Classic Macintosh Repair Guide. The menioned Optoisolator can be the culprit, but so can the nearby PP1 potentioeter. In any case - checking the voltages while the machine is running, will give you an idea if this part of the analog board is the issue.
  5. @Bolle I've just found this thread and did not (yet) read it all. I just want make sure that you aware of this device: Onion Omega2 I've successfully connected to WIFI using a Linux Laptop as a PPP Bridge with the "slirp" package. I am also still experimenting with an ESP32 setup but thinking about that, I might just forget about the ESP and start using this Onion Device with OpenWRT. It should more or less "just work"
  6. Don't worry, it is not too bad. I've replaced several back in the day when the machines were still in regular use and never had more than one or two screws left over Just take your time and make pictures at every step and you'll do fine if the HD's time has come.
  7. Seeing this, I rememberd that a pretty complete black PowerMac 5500/225 setup has been offered multiple times over the last few months on an Austrian classified ads site. Link can be found in the EU Finds Thread.
  8. The last version of MacSSH can connect over the SSH2 protocol which is more or less mandatory today. But it does not support current strong cyphers like ed25519. While this is still way more secure than telnet, I could not connect to any of my Linux machines with it. As I said - Belt suspenders and lots of foam padding ;-)
  9. To answer @dan.dem's question. I've not been able to get the PC Card extensions working under MacOS 8 or 8.1 although I have tried on a 68k Performa 630 and not a PPC 6100. I had to switch back to System 7.5.5 for the PC Card functionality although 8.1 did not display any other issues and worked fine otherwise. My guess is, the PC Card is not the problem that prevents an OS 8.x install. But trying without the card does not hurt either and could be worth it.
  10. @cofford It is true, Switches provide some degree if isolation and may prevent casual listeners. If there is anything out in your network actively sniffing passwords, then Switch isolation does not prevent anything. For example - saturating the Switches throughput might just let it fall back to operating as a Hub. It might also accept SNMP commands and let anyone set up a port as a monitor port and so on... The problem is, there could just be a device in your network that is already infected with crypto malware and is now looking for the keys to your backup server. It
  11. This is a valid setup for sure. Altough would not recommend using telnet even in an internal network! Usually there are many non-trusted devices on the network, that are able to see your unencrypted passwords. Think about Smartphones, TVs etc... 68040 Macs can connect to modern SSH servers using ssheven - you could easily skip the telnet step. For older 68k CPUs I would recommend using a real serial connection to the Linux Bridge. You need an USB-Serial converter and ZTerm on the Mac - no unencrypted network traffic. I really like the IIfx setup you have the
  12. Regarding the boot from Rom issue. Mine also would not do that after recapping and repair. Clearing the PRAM on boot (comand+option+p+r) made it work again! I would suggest to disconnect the HD first, then reset the PRAM and then try to boot from ROM. Let us know what happens!
  13. Same situation here - and same Idea about putting the SDCard behind the Security Lock hole. Cannot get it to work either
  14. I also recently had problems with a Classic AB (See this thread) Short version, it turned out that the PP1 potentiometer was oxidized and did no work anymore, so I still had low voltages even after I replaced most of the parts you also did. Voltage a bit too low gave me a wobbly screen. Even lower lead to the described chess pattern. Contact spray fixed the issue, but I'm currently still waiting for replacement 220 Ohm potentiometers.
  15. So its a 220 Ohm pot - thank you for the information. I'll order a similar looking one, and if need be, I can always extend the leads and solder it on "free-floating" or fixed with hot glue. But what do yo mean by adjusting from the bottom? In my case I had to reach through and around the CRT and all the cables using a long plastic stick. That's dangerous enough for me although I tried to be careful.
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