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at0z

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  1. So, does that suggest I might be able to run the MTP Emergency floppy on my Color Classicand connect to the Portable mobo ? Worth a try...
  2. I'm not dissing the techstep in these days of "vintage" hardware - just back in the day when you could still get a replacement logic board from Apple you could just throw parts at it I guess we wait to see if @mg.man gets his SE to talk to the Portable....
  3. Interesting - seems wildly un statistical that three suffered RAM Sad Macs after a recapping....did you do any board soak/clean as well ? In the absence of any other obvious path I'm going to pull the onboard RAM, test each chip and see if there are any duds. Nobody seems to be able to point to Bank B which I think the code references - they seem to be divided into an upper and lower (4x4 block) so I don't know if that makes the block nearest the hybrid chip bank B. But given there were replacement caps up near the I/O ports, that might well be bank B.... Like I said el
  4. This was in the days before the Internet - a subscription meant you got an envelope of CD every month as long as you kept paying Apple $$$$ I think we had the TechStep on trial for evaluation and we didn't end up keeping it. The main advantage to keeping it was that if it reported a component as failed, you could use that as proof to Apple Service Exchange that a replacement was warrantied. It was to prevent some shops from just throwing parts at a problem machine and charging Apple for them when they were perfectly fine. If Apple tested a return and found it working, then they charged ba
  5. I think I found it https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/apple-mactest-pro i remember the standalone box from my distant past working in AASP in UK. I don’t recall us being hugely impressed as it was a pass/fail device which meant swap the motherboard out service exchange with Apple, no board level shenanigans in those days... I will take another look. It might be worth rescuing an SE for. My Color Classic is now back with the living but doesn’t look like I can use that as a 68k host. Ive often thought if we could make use of the test pads that would
  6. It's like adopting senior cats or dogs, we don't know their history, we hope they don't destroy the furniture and pee on the floor and can get a quality of life in their later years
  7. I think it's time to put a bigger hard drive in the CC, half my 80MB is full and I haven't got the elbow room to upgrade to 7.5.5 from 7.1 which leads to the "anybody using floppyEMU with CC" question ? It seems I could put the new HD in and use the installers on floppyEMU to boot up the machine and create a new System Folder on the new drive. But of course the motherboard has no internal or external floppy port. I assume somewhere inside there's a header or something that converts the HD and FDD cables into something that meets the edge connector on the logic board. Anybody come up with some
  8. Well maybe it really is a bad RAM issue - replaced all three of the 244s and looked over the traces under the chips while there and all looked good and seemed to buzz out okay. As I said, there was no apparent cap or battery corrosion on this board but I don't know the history of the machine so I guess it is possible that it was on a shelf with Sad Mac RAM codes and I came along and recapped it as a necessary measure. The battery was dead of course and I'm rebuilding that. I didn't get a power brick with it (now sourced the proper Portable PSU and the standalone charging base) so I don't think
  9. I pulled that chip and didn't see anything untoward but I guess I need to buzz out each pad to its destination. I have a few new '244 and I mentioned I had already replaced the 157/10/02. In other news, my Color Classic lives again and the fluttering sound of Flying Toasters can be heard once again in the corner...
  10. That would save some spendy- in your experience is it a case the RAM itself is usually okay?
  11. Could you give an example? What orientation is “in front “ ? Sorry need a little added color...
  12. For those still following along at home, I pin/pad tested the VIA chip and found a few open where the solder may not have fully flowed. Changed to a Rosin flux pen instead of the tacky gel flux which I kind of prefer and fixed the opens. I had also pulled the SWIM chip so I went and tested that too, all good. Fingers crossed, breath bated, power on. 400mA draw and a chime, longer pause then my original 0003 code is back. I guess I need to order some RAM chips to swap out unless someone has an idea how to narrow it down. Anybody recommend part numbers from Mouser or Digi-Key?
  13. I admit I did remove the VIA to look for anything amiss underneath and replaced it. I did have an open on VIA TEST between PMGR and VIA but fixed that. On the PMGR, I have a missing pad on P20 but according to my schematic that doesn't lead anywhere so I ignored it (tell me off I missed something). Here is an iPhone shot of the board as I don't have a camera on the scope. I have not cleaned up the tacky flux at this point. I also discovered my "Amtech" may be a fake but still reviewing that with eBay/Amazon. Is it possible to drag solder the VIA successfully or is it a case of reso
  14. Well it’s a funny old game where a measure of success is a chime and a Sad Mac code compared to dead silence. But I'll take that as a half step forward(ish). So Mr 360alaska kindly offered a PMGR chip from one of his PB100 boards and that arrived yesterday. I swapped it out for the presumed dead one (after some discussion about part number interchangeability) and fired up the power full of anticipation but silence reigned and the power draw on the lab supply was zero. Couple of PMGR reset button holds and still nothing. Sad Mac Face. Coincidentally my digikey parts orde
  15. Thanks, looking to see if I can get better access to the latch and slide handle in the core to see if anything needs lubricating or is stuck - my D hooks like fine, so wondering if although the handle itself rises and falls as expected, something else inside isn't following through. I assume you got a PATA -> SATA converter to do the SSD upgrade ? I have a 20GB drive currently in there, which I would likely consider upgrading too...
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