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at0z

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  1. Hmm I thought the screen was perfect but now seeing these lines - is that a cable issue or screen issue or Other ?
  2. Is there anything worth checking on the controller or is it a donor option?
  3. I think it died before I got it. It doesn't actually spin up, the platters look clean but the drive has a nervous tic. It seems to spin freely by hand but either the motor is shot or the controller is.
  4. On days when I feel masochistic I will probably go prod the logic board some more. It also needs some work on the screen (or cable) as I see vertical lines on it. It did have some better condition body parts which migrated to this one.
  5. Got the battery and drive cable in from @360alaska, so buttoning everything back up. Dual partitions set up for 6.0.8 and 7.1. Decided to use the SCSI2SD in this and the BlueScsi in the Color Classic (although HD is still spinning well in that.)
  6. It’s a shame it’s not the backlit one but maybe I’ll keep an eye out for its cousin…
  7. Recap done, waiting on battery and hard drive cable to connect SCSI2HD. The 40SC is shot by the sounds and gunky edges, I don’t see any successful resurrection of these.
  8. As that great Mac technician Kenny Rogers said, You've got to know when to hold 'em Know when to fold 'em Know when to walk away And know when to run In one of my other threads you have seen my battles with a 5120 from eBay and as @techknight sagely said, you have no idea if the light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train. We have little or no knowledge sometimes whether something other than caps leakage caused our vintage Mac to give up its chime. In common with other collectibles, it seems knowing the provenance is increasingly useful. But I digress. I r
  9. I’ve had SCSI drives hang a boot up. Sometimes leaving the drive powered down until a little way into the startup sequence worked...
  10. Thanks for the post drag wicking tip - just seen someone doing that. I tend to use gel flux but I'll give the paste a go. Any preferred tip type for the drag ?
  11. Would anybody care to share their top tip(s) for replacing the packages like the SWIM and VIA ? The curled under pins make it very easy to create a bridge that you can't see, at least from my examples. I've seen YouTube videos where the pads are cleaned back completely, flux is added, the package is placed in position (much easier to do with no solder on pads) and then solder paste is applied and hot air used. Others appear to start with bare pads, add flux, tack a couple of pins to anchor the package then drag solder each side (that seems to be a prime risk for bridges though). Fi
  12. I think the VIA may be hosed - I'll try one from a donor board. Got to keep feeding the slot machine for a payout...
  13. Thanks, I also just spotted the mysterious white dot on the PCB screening....
  14. I feel better knowing I'm in good company Question on pin numbering - on some of the quad packages, it seems pin #1 is halfway down one side rather than the corner - I don't see anything in the schematics stating which chips do that - is there a listing somewhere of which ones play that game ? At least that might give me an idea whether the couple of bridges were in a major danger zone...
  15. Well replacing Q16 was interesting but ineffective at resolving the wild swings in power draw. Couldn't see any pin shorts on the video or SWIM or SCSI. As the SWIM was already off the board, I decided to pull the video chip which was fun. But it was worth it - underneath the chip out of sight were a couple of solder bridges. Unfortunately didn't note the pin numbers off hand, but cleaned up the pads and the board now draws an expected voltage and current. Got the video chip reunited with the board (those overhangs are a challenge - do most folks use a curved tip on the iron or sol
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