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  1. I have a classic LB I failed to revive after recapping, could be a candidate for contributing to this effort. I don't currently have any hot-air gear, might be a good excuse to get some. I've done some pretty epic stuff with just a soldering iron, but removing a 68000 intact might be a bit of a stretch. I have an idea regarding inner layers involving a local commercial third party, but I should probably talk to them first before saying any more on that.
  2. Except the -12V goes through a regulator which wouldn't work, so that would still need to go in place of IP3.
  3. Hi again. Yes you are correct, I did remove additional components to make room for the PSU which was just a little too long to fit along the bottom of the PCB with those in place. My original intention was to leave the inductors and capacitors on each power rail, but I decided the PSU probably had sufficient capacitance to keep things stable. If I open it up again I'll try to take some clearer photos, but for now I can tell you what I remember. Grey: +36V into cathode of where DP5 was. Yellow: +12V into where lower pin of LP5 was. Red:
  4. Thanks, I see you're also attempting to revive an analog board. Good luck with that. I had similar symptoms as you describe in your thread, that is until I blew things up. These are the parts I used to get to this point. pATX Power supply https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888405080.html DC-DC Boost converter https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000848001858.html I also used these pin extractors to remove the wires I didn't need, although I don't recommend these specific tools. I had to sharpen the inside of the fork to get it to insert fully and
  5. So it stayed like that until basically two days ago when I found some time to look into it again. In the mean time I ordered some parts, a "PicoATX" PSU that takes an input of 16-28V or whatever, I don't like the look of the 12V input ones, as I'm guessing they just pass the 12V through which sounds risky to me. I got a smaller DC-DC boost converter that could generate up to 36V from 12V input to drive the CRT. I also ordered a few ATX adapter cables, and some pin removal tools. My original intention was to build an adapter, but In the end I just hacked up the harness t
  6. So... after moving house and finally reaching the end of the year, I finally had some time to look at this again. But a catchup story first.. I did order a bunch of components and try to fix the ABs, I can't remember where I got to with the C1/EAB but the C2/LAB I made some progress after swapping in new optocoupler, voltage reference and barrier diode. It was looking okay for a bit, but then started outputting low voltage again. As I was poking around the regulator driver IC I accidentally bridged two pins and saw a small spark and it blew the fuse! I replaced the fuse, and t
  7. Hi, the thick red and white wires are the output from the DC-DC boost converter soldered into the yellow plug on the edge of the last picture.. The white one is negative/ground, but as the boost converter has common negative it is technically surplus to requirements. The red one is +29VDC injected into the output of the LM317.
  8. Here's a couple of pictures that show what's going on better. I've ordered cables and a different dc-dc to make an adapter harness. Turns out some Lenovos use 14p molex, and ATX adapters are readily available, so I'll just move pins around and splice wires accordingly.
  9. Hello, I am new here. Figured I'd jump in with something outrageous. Preamble: I've acquired a non working Classic and a Classic II with early (EAB) and late (LAB) analogue boards respectively. I have recapped both ABs and LBs. The LAB would blow the fuse immediately, eventually 'solved' by borrowing the QP2/IRFBC40 from EAB unfortunately this still didn't result in a booting LB (see below). The EAB would under-voltage, including +31V DC rail (approx 20V unloaded, 16V loaded). This results in a dim and wobbly display. With the EAB the C1LB would checkerb
  10. Kia ora. This is my first post on this forum. I thought this might be a good place to start, I've built a 2032 -> 1/2 AA adapter using veroboard and an appropriate holder. The metal terminals are made from solder lugs from 4mm "banana" sockets. But bits of terminal strip for 18650s would probably be cheaper. Also what a PCB/product might look like, I would really like to have plated edges on this to remove the need for terminals. But I'm not confident of how to make sure that is fabricated correctly. It's also designed that it could be used as a drop-in replacement f
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