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sutekh

68kMLA Supporter
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About sutekh

  • Birthday March 28

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  • Location
    Utah
  • Interests
    Computers, Cars, Airplanes

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    IT Director

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  1. Should work great. Looks like it doesn't come with the C14, but I suspect we all have many of those laying about. The 180c uses a 2.1mm positive center pin.
  2. I can only speak to my specific application, when my Duo 280c manifested the same symptoms (chime, backlit gray screen, no other activity), I discovered that DZ6 was open and replacing it immediate brought my 280c back to life. If nothing else, it's worth a quick check to rule it out. Pin1 is the anode and pin3 is the cathode. I wouldn't trust a reading in situ indicating a diode was shorted (could be finding continuity elsewhere on the board), but you should be able to at least rule out that it isn't open as was the situation in my case.
  3. This is the way. ABS / acetone slurry is quite porous after the solvent evaporates and lacks sufficient strength for this application.
  4. So, that thread you're talking about was probably mine. I completed this repair successfully on one of my 180cs, but it's not for the faint of heart. Couple things to consider: - Don't splice at the point of the pictured tear. The cable is just too thin there. Cut it back to the wider sections at either end. - Stagger there pads you create when stripping the insulation so you're not soldering one wire right next to the last. - Use a finer pitch cable than the one pictured. 80-pin PIDE or 68-pin UW SCSI are good candidates. Find one with stranded conductor
  5. My local coffee shop, reading my email and the news on my 180c, as I did this morning? Just my take, but portables are meant to be portable
  6. This is very interesting! Which models will you be targeting? Do you know if the 14MB limit on the 160/165/180 is defined in ROM, or just a function of the then available silicon? A PowerBook with 32MB would be awesome!
  7. It's just a standard laptop (48-pin) SCSI connector. You can get adapters that will interface them to a 50-pin SCSI1/2 connector. E.g., https://www.cablesonline.com/25lapscsihar.html I own the above and it works great in conjunction with my LC3 and an external SCSI enclosure for imaging and copying data between old drives and SCSI2SDs.
  8. Torn / disconnected cable manifests as a blank, white (could be described as light gray) screen. No lines, or anything else. Image (or lack thereof) doesn't change at all regardless of what the machine is doing.
  9. I'd definitely double check the adapter. The 180c is a power-thirsty beast and needs a power supply that can provide a consistent, clean 3A. Acrid burned chip odor? Fishy leaked electrolyte odor? The later is inevitable if the screen hasn't been re-capped. Is anything visible on the screen, or is it completely blank? If the former, it may just need re-capping / voltage adjustment (POTs on the front of the LCD). If the later, it could be a cable issue. Unfortunately, the fragile ribbon cables are easily and often torn. Same quest
  10. Won't fit the board. The daughter boards are different. The 180c has a cousin card in the way of where the 180s RAM expansion board would sit.
  11. Just posted here:
  12. I can confirm that the 180's 10MB memory expansion module will not fit in a 180c. I have one of each, and their dimensions are different / incompatible unfortunately.
  13. I've been on much the same journey over the past year with a similar inventory. I started with the goal of making one very nice unit, but one of the "parts machines" I purchased for an LCD surprised me with its condition and I've been able to get 2 very nice, complete 180cs up and running, with a 3rd complete unit that has numerous failed / damaged components. I've encountered many of the common failure modes of this platform along the way (PRAM battery replacement, re-capping LCDs, rebuilding interconnect and LCD cables, etc.) What problem(s) are you having?
  14. As @ian1035nr already indicated, they're readily rebuildable. Get cells with tabs if you go that route so you don't overheat them during assembly. If you want to tackle it, you can also go Li-Ion per something akin to what I've outlined in the following linked thread. It's more involved of course, but I get several hours of runtime from my second, 7000mAh pack. Here's a current pic of the Li-Ion Gang
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