Jump to content


68kMLA Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About desertrout

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

609 profile views
  1. This doesn't seem to be an option in 7.5.3..... though perhaps you were talking about doing this on the Mini, in which case it's already like that and working as expected.
  2. I'll try this next. Haha, I get it. No worries, and thanks for the insights.
  3. Update: The fact that the IIci couldn't connect to the Internet was suspicious to me, even though it could connect to other machines on the network via Ethernet (like the G3). So I went into the TCP/IP control panel and manually setting the addresses, verified Internet connectivity with Netscape (68k.news / frogfind.com FTW), and now I'm able to connect to the Mini via Appleshare in the Chooser. Not using the IP address, just by selecting it from the list of file servers.
  4. Yep Huh, I must have misunderstood the documentation. I'm (obviously) pretty unfamiliar with the nuances of Apple networking, it seems kinda labyrinthine at times. Getting more familiar with it is one of the reasons I'm messing around. I've tried the IP address of the Mini in Chooser, but I get a 'No response from server' error. I'm doing some further testing with the IIci, thinking there may be some other connectivity issues. I believe the Mini has all the updates, but I'm not sure what you mean if it's a client or server install...
  5. I'm following @Mk.558's guide (http://www.applefool.com/se30/#afpnetwork) as best I can, trying to connect a IIci running 7.5.3 to a Mini G4 running 10.4.11 over Appletalk on Ethernet. I can see the Mini in the Chooser (and the Mini can see the IIci in Classic), I can enter the user info, but then I get the error "The connection to this server has unexpectedly been broken." The IIci is using OpenTransport 3.1 and AppleShare Client 3.7.4 The IIci can mount a G3 running 9.2.2, and vice versa The G3 can mount the Mini, and vice versa What could I be missing? Is 7.
  6. I'd like to know how this goes for you. I was looking at Li-on batteries, as I understand they have a similar charging profile as SLA, and the Powerbook 100's charging circuitry is suitable for them, i.e. constant charge / constant voltage, but couldn't find any that would be small enough to fit in the battery case, and the output voltage was too high without including some kind of step down or resistance. So your option seems promising. And it appears to be doable - someone on eBay is selling new Li-Po based batteries for the 100 in 3D-printed cases that includes the required char
  7. Thanks - I was thinking I could salvage some shielding from an old MabBook power adapter, cut to size and affixed with double-side foam tape to stand it off (like the original), and I like your idea of insulating it with tape. Thanks again for the insight.
  8. Yup, everyone has their own process / recipe they swear by, so take what I say with a grain of salt - it works for me, your experience may vary. I'm not a scientist, just a hobbyist. 30 or 40 volume developer, I just buy the white creme stuff in small 150mL bottles because that's what I can find locally Mix in low ratio - I'll use one or two 150mL bottles in 65L or so of water Hotter / sunnier the day the better - sun / UV exposure seems to be key Check often, turn often, mix the solution often - bubbles forming is a good sign That's about it I guess.
  9. 100% agree. A full bottle is already way too much in that much water, so more is not going to solve the problem. The key missing factor in your situation is heat & UV light, and at 10°C temps you're simply not there yet. I say pump the brakes and wait until it's sustained 20+. What's the rush?
  10. It's not likely the tantalum itself is a culprit, as many of these displays have been successfully recapped with tantalum caps without these symptoms, mine included. But I'd be interested to see the spec sheet of the caps you used. Also, I hate to be critical and want to support your efforts (as many support me), but I also suspect your soldering work is a factor here. It looks very rough, and the solder-wick repair is potentially a problem.
  11. I agree, the sound is part of it for me too. I need to spend some more time reflecting on it, but I think it's part of a need to be reminded of how loud and tactile and fussy and tedious using computers used to be. There's a lot more to be said, but not in this thread.
  12. After some recent disassembly of a PB170 and a PB145, I seem to have misplaced the inverter shields... it's driving me crazy since I take pride in being methodical and note loosing pieces, especially something as large as that shield... Anyway, the technical manual insists on their replacement, so I'm wondering if there is a suitable DIY shield that could be made?
  13. Yeah, the yellow-striped cables work with the drives with the label with red lettering, and the red-striped cables work with the drives with the label with black lettering. You'd be forgiven for thinking it should be red/red but...
  14. Yeah, go ahead and get the caps you think you'll need just in case. Also be prepared to do some plastic repair while the machine is apart - the standoffs are almost guaranteed to be brittle or broken, and there are quite a few of them. I've found that JB Weld plastic epoxy works really really well, though others have different methods that seem to fit their needs (like 3D printing new standoffs)... lots of info out there. So take a close look for cracking on ALL of the standoffs, and be sure to keep an eye out for the brass fittings while taking things apart. Good luck!
  • Create New...