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  1. Thank you kindly! I tried what you suggested, but sadly the same result... except that I could use the mouse... I also tried a couple other card choices from the installer, and tried both restarts and cold boots, but no luck. Weird. Anyway, I'll spend some more time with this on the weekend and take a more methodical approach.
  2. Everything was connected to the AB when you tested, correct? Adjusting the voltage pot up will only push the 12V up, if it does anything at all right now... your issue is more likely a bad resistor, or a funky logic board connector (J4) or cable, provided your cap job checks out. Triple check your cap work. If want to second pair of eyes on the AB, some high-res pictures of the board would be welcome (both sides). Provided that checks out, I would then start with some baseline stuff: verifying that your connectors are all clean and providing good continuity with no crac
  3. Wondering if I can get pointed in the right direction with Compact Virtual 3.0... It keeps crashing on boot, complaining the math coprocessor is not installed. I'm running RailGun 5.42 (which should be compatible with CV3 according to the readme) on System 6.0.8. There's definitely a FPU there, RailGun sees it. No matter the settings I change, it bombs. What gives?
  4. OK - always need to ask. Recaps can sometimes reveal other weak links in the chain, so what you're experiencing is not that uncommon. To your original question, CR15 is to the immediate left of the height pot (R58). CR17 is below that on the far left, just above the speaker. Until someone pipes up with a Mouser cart / list for the diodes etc, Pina's does have an appendix with International part #'s (http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Repair_books_files/Macintosh Repair and Upgrade Secrets.pdf), which you can cross reference against the US #'s and JDW's modern replacement
  5. A few quick questions: Have you adjusted the voltage pot (R56)? Have you inspected and cleaned connectors J1, J2, and J4, and inspected / resoldered those connector solder joints?
  6. Excellent! Congratulations! It's a wonderful feeling. Next step is to follow chapters 2, and 3 of Pina's Repair Secrets book (http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Repair_books_files/Macintosh Repair and Upgrade Secrets.pdf) to establish your baseline. The screen issue very well may be the caps, but may also be that the voltage pot needs adjusting, still a poor grounding issue, the transistor at Q3... But you're definitely in good shape.
  7. Also your U3 is NOT socketed... the backside of the board clearly shows that it was soldered in. How did you remove it?
  8. Thanks for sharing the pics. Yeah, the model number would suggest a 128k, though someone else here would be in a better position to confirm that. Interesting that they would upgrade the AB but not the floppy drive? Overall everything looks pretty good! I was expecting more damage based on what you were saying earlier. You say those traces on the bottom part of the AB ring out, so that's great. You mention not being able to find a replacement for C1 - the modern replacement for that cap is of a different kind, a metallized polypropylene film capacitor (like this one: htt
  9. 4N35 is the replacement part for the North American board, and appears to be the same for the International version. So, yes, it's a good choice. If the issue isn't resolved with the 4N35, at least you've eliminated it from the list. But it's a pretty common failure point, so fingers crossed. Getting the anode cap out is tricky at first, but becomes easier with practice. Sometimes you need to get a flat-head screwdriver or something in there to gently push one side in enough so it can clear the hole, then it just lifts out. Persevere with it (gently) - it would be a go
  10. A sizzling sound suggests to me a bad ground. Did you have the AB out of the machine before that started happening? If so, ensure that the AB's grounding wire is attached to the chassis, and that the grounding plate is in place and secured with both screws. The other possibility in all this is a bad flyback... pictures could help, but ultimately this is a process of elimination. PS: RIFA's just look like that after a while, doesn't necessarily mean their about to fail. However, as with the electrolytics, it advisable to replace them as a matter of course.
  11. Hello from Canada! God Save The Queen etc. The second PDF is a classic repair manual, but is a bit dated and doesn't cover more recent issues with these old machines. However it does provide a lot of useful insight and may help narrow down the issue. At this point, I'd say it's time to check all resistors, they do fail often. Of course, there's always the possibility - some would say likelihood - that some of the capacitors are bad, even if they don't look bad. Many here will advise that you simply replace all of the electrolytic capacitors, and I also do that now as a
  12. That sounds to me like the power side is crowbarring - the 5V line is over voltage, i.e. above 5.45 or so. First thing I would do is turn down the voltage pot (all the way clockwise, if I remember correctly), and see if that changes anything. Check your voltages on the floppy port, adjust accordingly. If it's not a high 5V, then there are other potential causes - @bibilit's suggestion is one (the 4N35 at U3 on the analog board) though I haven't seen any socketed 4N35's, also there's an SCR that can die ... some other stuff as well. Is this a North America or International version? No matt
  13. I'm wondering if there's a way to convert Apple II 5.25 images, usually in DOS 3.3 format it seems, to ProDOS or even DiskCopy format in Bernie ][ the Rescue... or is that just nonsense? I guess what I'm asking is if it's possible to get 5.25" images onto 3.5" disks outside of OSGS? (atm my new-to-me IIGS only has 256k... 8MB card on order)
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