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  1. All interesting ideas on the screen. The truth is 640x480 scaled on this 1024x768 LCD is pretty good looking. The biggest issue with it (and it isn't a huge one) is the stippling on the original CRT glass. If I had a wish it would probably be for a smooth, clear glass front. That said, it's not a huge deal and mostly noticeable only on white backgrounds. I like the instant frame buffer idea--though at this point I'm not inclined to re-work the project to include as I managed to get the boot to flash screen time down using the info in this thread: https://www.raspberrypi.org/fo
  2. The emulation is fine. I haven't played Shufflepuck on it, but crystal quest runs just fine. I'm using the SDL version of basilisk ii -- this is my config, but its pretty standard: displaycolordepth 8 rom /home/pi/mac/PERFORMA.ROM disk /home/pi/mac/HD20Sys75.dsk disk /home/pi/mac/HDStorage.dsk disk /home/pi/mac/Classic.dsk screen dga/640/480 bootdrive 0 bootdriver 0 ramsize 8388608 frameskip 8 modelid 5 cpu 3 fpu true nocdrom true nosound false noclipconversion false nogui false jit false jitfpu false jitdebug false jitcachesize 0 jitlazyflush false jitinline false keyboardtype 5
  3. I've found 640x480 is really the sweet spot at this size. I run basiliskII and vMac at that res at they are both able to fill to fit the screen (1024x768). basiliskII handled it automatically. vMac I had to play with the compile time options (or do it manually via the "ctrl" menu).
  4. Another update -- I wanted to re-create the startup sound of the Mac Plus. It bothered me to flick the power switch and _not_ hear the familiar "boing". So I wired in this Ada Fruit sound board with a recording of the Mac startup chime and some floppy disk noises. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2210. The card activates and plays as soon as the power is flicked on and then once the pi boots it disables it. Here's a video and a pic. If you look in the picture you'll see two speakers wired in. The bootup sound file plays the "boing" over the left channel and the flop
  5. A few final things since I'm going into details: Audio: the 3.5mm out from the Pi wasn't powerful enough so I used this hat for an amp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZZ95B9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wifi: I was worried that the case would block the wifi signal so I added a usb wifi dongle with external antennae. As it turns out, however, the pi 4's built in wifi seems to work just fine even with the case closed up. But I left the external antennae in anyway, taped to the back of the lcd. Keyboard and mouse: The single b
  6. Keyboard and mouse: I used Tinkerboy's USB adapters Keyboard: https://www.tinkerboy.xyz/product/tinkerboy-m0110-keyboard-to-usb-converter-for-the-apple-macintosh-128k-512k-plus-keyboard/ Mouse: https://www.tinkerboy.xyz/product/tinkerboy-m0100-mouse-to-usb-converter/ To keep the external appearance of the MacPlus I basically cannibalized the null-modem (for mouse) and Rj11 (for keyboard) connectors on the logic board and connected them to the usb adapters inside the case. For the keyboard, this involved wiring the four leads from the RJ11 di
  7. The floppy drive: 1. I found an SD to USB drive that I could pop the top off of to allow the floppy drive's mechanism to seat "down" on it. I don't know the model I used--I just had one lying around. I've attached a picture. 2. It had a little "presence" detector that was normally actuated by the SD card pushing to contacts together. I rewired that to be triggered by the floppy drive's presence detector (which is also just a contact sensor that's pressed when a floppy goes in--it's on the bottom left of the drives "mouth"). 3. For the eject, I used this https://www.adafruit.
  8. That should work. I used this - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ545-2-Inch-Diamond-Wheel/dp/B000Y4ZTFS/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=dremel+diamond+cutting+wheel&sr=8-7
  9. In terms of cutting the glass, there's obviously always some danger in messing with CRTs, so do at your own risk and only if you are comfortable. That said, the basic steps were: 1. Wrapped it in a heavy towel and broke off the vacuum nipple at the very back end/narrowest part of the CRT to eliminate the vacuum. 2. Use a diamond cutting wheel on a dremel at under 10k rpms to cut around the edge near the screen. It was important to go excruciatingly slow to avoid the screen cracking. It will crack if it heats up _at all_ so I really needed to avoid the temptation to go fast.
  10. Here are links to the videos on YT: Color mac plus - Floppy Drive -
  11. When I was a kid, I always wished my Mac Plus had color. Thirty years later... Really just another Pi in Mac case project. A few things I did differently: All the external ports are unchanged. You can plug in and use an original keyboard and mouse. (Tinkerboys USB adapters are soldered on the inside of the case) “Working” floppy drive that accepts special 3D printed floppies with an SD card in it. (See video. A USB Sd card reader, 12 v motor pi HAT for the eject, a lot of patient measurements and 3D printing...) Sound from the original speaker (Pi DAC/Amp
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