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  1. Wondering if anyone knows a good source (other than cannibalizing another unit) for replacement power switches for a Newton 130. I'm refurbishing one. Among the issues is a broken power switch, component J12 on the motherboard (circled in pink in the attached photo). I've spent hours going over data sheets on mouser and digikey trying to find a suitable replacement, but all the switches I find are too large. The original is approximately 5mm wide, 4mm tall, and 11mm long (14mm including the extended plunger). When the ROM board is socketed just to the left, there's no extra vertical space
  2. And it lives! I guess I got lucky. This one apparently only needed a good lens cleaning. I bought it "for parts only" on eBay recently. It would always eject the caddy after a few seconds. I'm glad I didn't have to do much troubleshooting. This model really is not fun to tear down and reassemble. I'm happy with the retrobrite result too. The SE/30 itself is lighter than it should be. I had to aggressively immerse the SE/30 case after a marbling disaster with the cream/plastic wrap method. It got rid of the marbling, but the case is not too white. The AppleCD case is an ap
  3. Thanks. Got it open. Now troubleshooting the drive while the case retrobrites.
  4. I trying to find some tips on disassembling an M2850 external CD drive. I've searched Google with no luck. There are no screws on the bottom. I THINK there are some tabs on the side that may be keeping the top on. But I haven't had any luck opening the case so far. Any suggestions or instructions would be most welcome. I'm trying to get inside to clean it and see if there are any other needed repairs.
  5. Turns out it was a combination of the ADB cable itself being somehow bad as well as a few non functioning key switches. I finally got another AEKII and it works fine. The old AEKII works with the beer cable but has a few non responsive key switches. I’ll despiser those individually and disassemble the switches to clean them out. During the early cleaning process, the right arrow key switch actually expelled some kind of goo when depressed. I shudder to imagine what kind of precious life the keyboard had.
  6. Larry Pina's books have been invaluable to me in restoring this computer. However, the problem isn't just with a select few keys. The keyboard just stops working altogether after a while. I removed all the keycaps but the key switches are attached to the PCB through the metal plate. I haven't been able to figure out a way to separate the metal plate without desoldering every key switch. Here's a picture from one of the times I got it working.
  7. Aaaaand it's back to not working again. I'm so glad I have another AEK II on the way. The previous owner(s) must have poured a lot of Mt. Dew on this thing. Maybe some day I'll get bored enough to use my Hakko desoldering gun on this thing and separate the PCB from all the key switches. For now though, this thing is going into the garage.
  8. Some keys are not responding and others are intermittent. This will definitely need more washing, I think.
  9. Well, how about that! Alcohol bath and blow dryer revived it. There must have been some residual gunk between that non-removable metal plate and the PCB underneath causing a short. I really wish I could get under that plate and give the PCB a proper scrubbing.
  10. Just got one reading the ADB section of the book. Thanks for the referral. It's very informative. Based on everything he says, I'm convinced the problem is with my keyboard and not the logic board. Mouse does not work when daisy chained. The caps lock LED does not illuminate when the caps lock key is depressed. The three LEDs come on momentarily at startup but then remain unresponsive. The RF choke filter on the keyboard PCB has good connectivity. I'm wondering if there's still some debris lodged under the metal casing that separates the key switches from the actual PCB. You can't
  11. I’m interested in the solution to this ADB issue as I’m currently troubleshooting the reverse situation in which my SE/30’s mouse works fine, but the keyboard is unresponsive.
  12. First time posting here. I recently acquired an SE/30. Advertised as computer and mouse work, but keyboard does not work. Unsurprisingly with old computers shipped in the summer heat, the computer wasn’t working by the time it arrived on my front porch. I did I a full recap and cleaning of the logic board and got it up and running again. As advertised, the mouse works but the Apple Extended Keyboard II does not. I disassembled the keyboard and gave it a thorough cleaning and retrobrite treatment. After giving the keyboard main board an alcohol bath and drying it with a hair dryer,
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