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ironborn65

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  1. ok, I found this 3com OfficeConnect 3c16701 at a reasonable price (relatively speaking) it's 10mb/sec only a with BNC, no AUI it seems to be old enough https://www.ebay.it/itm/3com-OfficeConnect-3c16701-8-porte-8x-rj45-1-COAX-External-HUB-EXCL-L4-AL/184365263465?hash=item2aed06aa69%3Ag%3Am4wAAOSw7HlfDzQ3&LH_ItemCondition=4 Shall I give it a chance ? Not a binding opinion of course, there is no liability or this https://www.ebay.it/itm/DIGICOM-Switch-8-Porte-10-100-Mbps-colore-Grigio-8E4071-Mini-Switch-8-L6-FH/183900950065?_trkparms=aid%3D111001
  2. yes, right, the connector exists, I got this https://www.ebay.com/i/273425140933?chn=ps
  3. Great project, I'm looking forward to try and test it: I have: macii, classic, classic ii, iici, iisi, powerbook g3, macbook 190 (it has the tiny squared connector) , powermac 5400, powermac 6100, G4 sawtooth with scsi PCI card so excited... Best
  4. Thanks Daniel, that area is not very clean, the cap leaked, as you can tell from the greenish around it. At this point I have IMO some options: - desolder it, clean it and put it back. I do not have special tools, I'm just good enough to solder SMD tantalum capacitor, it's probably behind my skills and I do not want to make practice on an Apple MB. - put it the dishwater for a couple of rounds Reading around, a mixture of water and acid citric (lemon) would help removing the conductive acid of the capacitor. Isopropyl alcohol does not help, it's good for removin
  5. can u please help me to locate the chip? I can not find schematics or a MB layout thanks
  6. interessing discussion guys. Since I am unable to get an. old enterprise switch I believe that the only way I have to network my Mac II is. to find a BNC router instead plus cables and terminators (I have another network card) or an AUI to RJ45 Ethernet adapter. Will I find other obstacles?
  7. thanks Daniel, cheesestraws for the reply. I tested the power supply: OK. 5V, 12V stable: OK I replaced the 3.3v battery: OK I recapped the mother board, please notice the replacement of the tiny capacitor (is it?) near C94 C95 C97. It came out and lost when cleaning, I replace with one of the same color from a scrapped device. Monitor connected I turned it on: black screen, classical chime and after about 1 sec i got the chime of death (car crash) I did several tests:
  8. If the Mac plays the crash crash sound after the startup bong can I assume at least the CPU is not compromise? thanks
  9. I replaced all the capacitors, the picture shows only three of them and the tiny capacitor I was somehow able to solder back (it was rescued from another device, same colour of the original that went lost ). I tested the continuity from each capacitor pin and the trace it's laid, everything looks fine, I checked the polarity numerous times. I assembled it back. Same checklist as above: it chimes as the fist but then I hear the nasty car crash sound, of course still a black screen. I tried with another pair of SIMM I had, known to be working, but with no luck. Ah, the h
  10. the tiny capacitor felt from here, see photo Is it mandatory to solder it back ?
  11. Hi pals, I just got a - externally looking - fine 6100. I tested the power supply: OK. I replaced the 3.3v battery: OK I looked for macroscopic leaking from the capacitors: OK the HD works fine, I connected it to another Mac: OK I turned it on: black screen, no BEEP 5V, 12V stable: OK reset PRAM quick on-off-on It turned it on: black screen, no BEEP, no HD activities I did then a closed inspection at the mother board, and I saw some sign of corrosion (see attached photos) close to some SM capacitors. It did not look so b
  12. Hi all, FYI I just moved a MB from a Mac Classic (Type A analog board), to a Mac Classic II unit (Type B analog board), it worked just fine. best Pierfranco
  13. Hi all, I have a faulty PSU in my mac classic, despite my attempts it still does not work I noticed that the AC-DC is isolated from the DC-DC part in the board, so do the CRT board downward. So, I have the crazy idea that by removing the transformer and the optoisolator, at this point I could inject the current from an external PSU into the pads where the voltages is supplied to the MB. Pls look at the picture. This could give power to the CRT and the MB. The DC DC it still connected but it would not, in my opinion, create problems. The question is: wo
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