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Everything posted by PotatoFi

  1. The paint on the metal shield was pretty scratched up, so I decided to pull it off, sand it with 320 grit sandpaper, 600 grit sandpaper, and paint with an all-purpose spray paint. I think it came out pretty good. Darker than I intended.
  2. It's here! As planned, I'm running S-Video from my analog consoles > S-Video switch > Pass through PVM > RetroTINK 2X > LCD TV. There might be a teeny tiny loss of quality by the time it hits the LCD but I am not sure. That's about 6 * 3 = 18 feet of cable before it terminates, so if I can, I'm going to find shorter ones. For "only" a 500-TV-line display, with "only" S-Video, I am really happy with how it looks! The pictures don't quite capture it, but they get you close. I also tried out some 4
  3. New models are posted! Models: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/35592-macintosh-se30-rom-clips Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/840042244/macintosh-se30-rom-clips
  4. Update: the PVM is in the back of my brother's car. Sadly won't be heading this way until Monday.
  5. Please do! I'd love to hear more about it! Yes, professional video monitors are super, super desirable for retro videogames. But, they're kinda like a Macintosh Color Classic. To 99 percent of the population, they're just junk, so saving them before they go into the landfill is half the battle. If you want to know why they're special, check out this video by My Life in Gaming.
  6. I do have a battery-bombed SE/30 board here with slot Type C on it (see the Type C photo above). It was gifted to me by someone here at 68kmla for parts. But yeah, I don't know if it's common at all (sounds like it isn't), or if the BMOW ROM fails in it. I do have a basic design done for Type C but it doesn't quite fit yet. Needs a bit of tweaking.
  7. It was intended to be more about "hang out" time than an instructional video. I personally can't watch recorded live streams after the fact - something about watching it happen live is entertaining, but when it's done, I'm just not interested. And if I can solder one of those up, anybody can!
  8. Quick update! I spoke with Steve at Big Mess O' Wires and sent him some clips - it turns out that there are at least two variants of white, all-plastic SIMM slots. So now, I have "Type A" and "Type B" clips available. I also made them both compatible with stock SE/30 ROM SIMMs, so you can use this with a stock ROM if you've broken a clip on your ROM SIMM slot. Type A Type B ' Which brings me to Type C (all-black with metal clips). Does that SIMM slot ever fail? Does anyone have issue
  9. Okay, first off I am shocked to hear that not one, but two people on the forum have the same PVM! I didn't think this one was that popular or common! As for the RGB mod... maybe at some point, we can do a better job at documenting this! Although right now, I must admit that I'm pretty content with S-Video. Probably an American thing. GUNS, APPLE PIE, HAMBURGERS, TRUCKS AND S-VIDEO! HECK YEEEAAAAHHHHHH 'MURICA!!!!! But seriously, I love knowing that RGB is possible on this display. It might even be as simple as a small flexible tab on the front panel! It's just nice to
  10. I dug around on the Wayback Machine a bit, and found a bit of information about the mod. The instructions are not very detailed - basically just a list of components.
  11. This was the piece of information that tipped the PVM-14N5U into my favor. I don’t see myself doing the mod, but it is very nice to know that it’s just a few components away! I wonder if I can buy additional front panel switches somewhere, since the PVM-14N5U has fewer buttons than the 6U? @Daniël Oosterhuis, you seem to have domain knowledge here. Anything else I should know?
  12. Yep! Specs say 13 1/8" viewable. I think that's about the right size for my setup. Looking forward to getting it... I don't think I've ever even seen a PVM in person.
  13. Excellent news! And to celebrate, I'm going to attempt to solder one of these together. Live. In front of people. What could possibly go wrong? Details here:
  14. Confession time: retro macs aren't my only hobby. They might not even be my main hobby. Here's what one entire corner of my office looks like: I'm a pretty big fan of retro videogame consoles, specifically the Nintendo Entertainment System, Super Nintendo, Nintendo 64, Sega Dreamcast, and original Xbox. Getting them to look good on a modern display is pretty difficult, so my entire setup (with a couple of exceptions) uses S-Video cables, which connect to a little line-doubler box called a RetroTINK. It takes 240p or 480i input from the consoles, and converts the video
  15. I don't think so. There is a guy in the Eastern US who buys "glass" (tubes) and resells it. I watched a YouTube video interview with him and Bob from RetroRGB, and basically, he said that manufacturing is completely shut down. Additionally, all of the people who know how to do it are retired/retiring, so we're losing an entire industry. And that's just the glass... there's also flyback transformers, yokes... all of that stuff.
  16. Hrm. I wonder what changed between the first and second boot attempt. A good wash and thorough dry isn't a bad idea. Since I wash using tap water, I always use the air compressor to blast all of the water out from under the IC's. Don't give up, I know that it looks grim right now, but keep going! I felt pretty hopeless about mine several times, but finally got it going!
  17. Maybe there's a bridged pin on the ASC somewhere?
  18. I will! I have poor @LaPorta in limbo right now, as I can't decide whether to buy his CRT or not. Very curious to hear how the CRT rejuvenator goes. Where the heck did you find that, anyway?!
  19. YOU CAN GET SOCKETS FOR THOSE?! Oh man, I wish I'd known that when I did my ASC! As for the break... yeah, I would try to bridge it with a bit of solder. Worst-case scenario, it doesn't work, and you end up running a little bodge wire on top later. No big deal. And if the thought of a bodge wire bothers you, keep in mind that some of these machines (like some of the early Classic II logic boards) actually came with bodge wires installed from the factory. Nice to see you over here after chatting on Reddit! Keep us updated!
  20. Yep, I used a Rectangular Pattern Constraint in a 2D sketch to generate those. Worked like a charm. That was a ton of manual work in SketchUp. As for purchasing the license... normally it is $500/yr. They announced some changes to the non-commercial version that are totally fair, but would make using it a bit of headache for me. That combined with a nice $300/yr discount made me decide that it was worth it to make the jump. I am using it almost daily, so I decided that for less than a dollar a day, I would have the "real deal". Plus, my SCSI2SD Bracket and Mac ROM-inator Clip sales
  21. Time for an update! Since last posting about this, the only 3D modeling tool I could use was SketchUp, which is actually pretty bad for designing mechanical parts. Since then, I've learned a new tool: Fusion 360! I even spent $300 on a real Fusion 360 license a couple of days ago, so I am really committed now. Today, I sat down and got the HD20 SC modeled up: There it is, a real, fully parametric model! Parametric means that there are variables (parameters) assigned to certain aspects, like case thickness. Right now it's 7mm, but it's one variable to change it to 5mm. Or 10mm
  22. Thanks! I have dabbled with recording some of my restoration work... so I have footage of a few of my projects, but I've had a hard time finding the time/energy to get them edited into actual videos. I am thinking about live-streaming some of my restoration projects, we'll see. As for the 840av, bring it on! The most challenging part, of course, is tracking one down.
  23. Amazing find! What marketplace did you find it on? Craigslist? Edit: Hang on, you're not in the US. So probably not Craigslist!
  24. Great suggestions! For the 3D-printed case, I think there might end up being several variants: Internal hard drive bay mount External with one DB25 External with two DB25 And then, there's the question of which Raspberry Pi. If you're going to use a Raspberry Pi 4 instead of a Zero W, that would be a different case, right? And what if you want to use a Zero W with a USB Ethernet Adapter (for eventual Ethernet support)? There seem to be a ton of possibilities. Work and family have kept me super tied up for the last couple of weeks, so I haven't been able to
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