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About PotatoFi

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    Boise, ID

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  1. Same! Mine gets the temperature up to about 32°C (90°F), which isn't quite enough for the reaction to happen quickly, but it gets the liquid closer to the right temperature. The sun takes it from there. Once I see about 40.5° (105°F) things really start happening.
  2. +1 to all of this. I personally haven't noticed issues with the metal paint on my compacts. On anything with a metal shield, remove it. I use the 30 proof clear stuff from Sally Beauty. They've never asked what it's for, they just sell it to me. I have been meaning to try the pool oxidizer thing. As for concentration... I just wing it. The more concentrated it is, the faster things go!
  3. Congratulations! NES and SNES are my "other" hobby. They've become quite valuable in the last 2 or 3 years!
  4. There is no shortage of Plus boards, but Classic, Classic II, and SE/30 boards die from capacitor leakage and battery explosions all of the time.
  5. Your logic board doesn't look very clean. Scrub it with Isopropyl Alcohol and a toothbrush. Sometimes I even scrub them with dish soap and water. Either way, I take it straight out to the garage, and blast the board with the air compressor to get every drop of moisture off of it, and then I let it dry for 24 hours. I have a guide/build log here that might help.
  6. I would recommend removing the analog board, desolder the brightness potentiometer, pour some Isopropyl Alcohol into it, and turn it a bunch of times. You might even be able to do it without desoldering the brightness pot. I had a brightness potentiometer that would not go very dim - doing this totally fixed it.
  7. Did you clean your SE/30 case with soap and a toothbrush before submerging it in peroxide? Could that be what is causing the marbling, or is it just an illusion in the photo? FWIW, I've never experienced any marbling when fully submerging parts in hydrogen peroxide.
  8. Once everything was dry, it was time to reassemble! First, I dropped the keyboard back into the enclosure and put all of the screws back. I was SUPER lazy with this keyboard. I didn't even bother to remove most of the keycaps. Instead, I just used paper towels and some q-tips to clean everything. It's not perfect, but it looks pretty good. Ewww, the mouse connector is gross. Let's fix that. I think these connectors are sealed up pretty well, so I scrubbed it with some soap and water (light on the water). I've used alcohol here
  9. Next, I got the parts outside to scrub them down. As usual, I used Dawn dishwasher detergent and a toothbrush. I hit them all with the air compressor, and then let them air dry for a bit. I think they came out pretty nice! There were a few very small black scuffs here and there... but since this machine is in such nice shape, and since scrubbing with paper towels and baking soda removes a tiny bit of texture, I decided to just clean it with soap and water.
  10. Next, it was time to take apart the mouse and keyboard for cleaning. Four Phillips screws on the bottom are all it takes to split the mouse enclosure. Next, I removed the three Phillips screws inside, so I could pop the PCB out. With the mouse taken apart, I turned my attention to the keyboard. There are three Phillips screws along the front to remove. Then, I released on the clips along the back of the keyboard. I do this by inserting a small flat head screwdriver or plastic spudger... The
  11. I was recently given a machine by a friend that needs a bit of clean-up, so I thought I'd document it here for the fun of it. Apparently, my friend had a family member who purchased this machine along with an Apple Extended Keyboard II and an ImageWriter II. In this thread, I'll be looking at the machine itself, a regular Apple Keyboard II, and mouse. I have another friend who has been looking for a Mac like this, so it's going to get passed on to him. Before shipping it out, I decided to take some time on a Saturday afternoon to clean it up a bit. The Macintosh S
  12. Thanks! I enjoy these projects and documenting them. That's a fair question! It's just a mix of hydrogen peroxide and water. I have never tried OxiClean, but perhaps I should next time I need to retrobrite something!
  13. @moldy I fully intended to complete this with a write-up of where I got the drivers, how I set up MacTCP, and what the results were, but I got distracted and never did! I think I ended up using the drivers from the vintageapple.org network drivers page, specifically the Shiva Etherport II drivers from that page. If they work, can you let us know?
  14. Oh wow, that sounds super useful! Can you link to the adhesive that you are using?
  15. So far, I’ve had no trouble with them sticking back in with the original adhesive. Some pop out easier than others, but they have all stuck back in just fine.
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