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Crutch

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  1. I used this San Ace PWM controlled fan from Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sanyo-Denki/9S0612P4H01?qs=t9Lg9qrXjExOKHtu87EPlA%3D%3D And a thermostat speed controller PCB by “icstation” from Amazon which it looks like is no longer in stock but I’m sure you could find something similar, it also wouldn’t be that hard to make one but I was feeling lazy and I think I paid like $9 for it. I did exactly the same thing and mounted the Seasonic PSU inside the stock PSU case using standoffs, here’s a picture. It works great (and looks great tucked inside that PSU c
  2. I would agree if you mean one shouldn’t have the fan off altogether then kick on only when things get too hot. However I think the best solution is to rig up a PWM controlled fan that runs at some reasonable speed (say, equivalent to stock CFM but quieter) normally, then can kick up to a higher/louder speed if things start to heat up. Off the shelf thermistor circuits allow this with some configuration. This is what I have rigged up inside my SE/30 and in my tests keeps the max flyback-area temp some 10-15 degrees cooler at max than just running a Noctua fan.
  3. On the cooling questions, the 040 indeed has no temperature control. I’ve played around with various solutions including at one point hooking up a thermistor to an Arduino Nano inside the case, and wiring it up to my SE/30’s serial port with custom software running that puts the temperature as measured just over the flyback into a window on the screen ... eventually I got lazy and swapped that out with an off-the-shelf thermistor circuit controlling a San Ace PWM fan I got from Mouser which is much louder than your Noctua but moves more air when it runs at high speed (which it only does when
  4. Oh yeah for some reason the accelerator drivers and CV are really hard to set up together without breaking things. I spent a lot of time trying to figure this setup out a couple years ago. I since sold mine, but from my notes, I got it to work (Compact Virtual + RailGun drivers) only by installing CV from the Installer and telling it I had a Mercury accelerator (even though I didn’t). That was the only installer config option that got things to work — but once I did that, it worked perfectly under both 6.0.8 and 7.0.1. Let us know if you have any luck, or find a better way.
  5. Thanks. Those look like mostly ‘00s issues so maybe not as directly relevant for your project but still cool to see. (The older MacTech issues were called MacTutor and are archived on the MacTech website in plain text form.)
  6. That approach to hiding the menu bar (set MBarHeight to 0 and increase the size of Gray Rgn) should work on any version of the classic Mac OS, in general Apple was pretty good about not messing with the documented lomem globals. That code exists more or less exactly in one of Knaster’s books also, probably Macintosh Programming Secrets. If all you want to do is draw on the menu bar, you can just call _OpenPort and do it (the default portRect includes the whole universe, -32768 to 32767 in each direction). So, your INIT could probably work without patching _DrawMenubar just by re-
  7. Hi, cool idea and I agree with @cheesestraws! That said here are a few ways to do this: 1. Write an INIT that patches GetNextEvent and WaitNextEvent (apps could call either to get an event). Increment a counter if theEvent.what == mouseDown then pass it on. Write a cdev to give it a user interface. This is probably the “right” way to do this. But you could also: 2. Write an application to do this. As @MrFahrenheit states above, the issue is you have to deal with is the application might not get enough background time to notice the click, and in partic
  8. Yes, very fixable. If it’s really rotated, you need to rotate the yoke (VERY slightly). See section 5.6 here http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/DIY_Information_files/Classic Mac Repair Notes .pdf Be careful, unplug it, discharge everything if you want, remove jewelry etc. etc. If it’s instead actually distorted as suggested above, you need to adjust the centering magnets. It is very easy to make things worse doing this (but you can always retrace your steps). Section 5.7 in the link above.
  9. OK I have to ask — how did you figure this out and why is this even possible? (Thanks for sharing either way, how interesting and weird)
  10. Great tip @JDW. I have a recapped SE/30 analog board with a Seasonic PSU that isn’t getting the floppy port voltage anywhere near 5V ... definitely going to give replacing the harness a try. I would not have thought of that, obvious as it is. (Still haven’t tested out if I can trigger my Seasonic PSU fan with heat .... one day soon!)
  11. Thanks for sharing. You don’t by chance have a photo of the back? I’d love to know if the model number ends in “ED” (suggesting this is a Macintosh ED that maybe had its label cleaned off, or perhaps never had one) or just “E”.
  12. 11 kHz was sort of standard for longer samples back in the day to same space, right. But all the relevant tools including earlier ones like SoundWave and the MacNifty (Impulse) Audio Digitizer, which was the sort of pre-MacRecorder standard (and which I ran on a 512k non-E circa 1989) supported 22 kHz. It was possible to play back 4-channel .MOD files using Sound-Trecker (and probably other things) by the 030 era, I certainly remember doing so on my IIci when it was new.
  13. Hey this is looking great! So glad the texture map optimizations work. Yeah if you can eliminate every little piece of floating point math in the drawing loops you will get an amazing speedup on the non-FPU machines, good call to used the Fixed math routines.
  14. Good and clear video as usual. Did anyone respond confirming similar behavior? The statement on the spec sheet that the fan doesn’t run under a 30% load is so specific it’s hard for me to believe they just completely made it up and the fan really is just temperature controlled. I have a spare Seasonic PSU, maybe I will try it this weekend.
  15. Lots of possible explanations there - it could be measuring average load over X amount of time. Would be easy to test if anyone cares - plug a Seasonic PSU out of the box with no load into the wall, then point a hairdryer at it.
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