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Everything posted by DistantStar001

  1. I just searched Amazon for "150k ohm potentiometer" and found more than a few at that value. Don't Know if they will work, but it might be worth a look? To answer your original question on if these can be repaired, the answer is usually yes. However, you'll have to take them completely apart to clean each individual component with 99% alcohol and a q-tip before reassembling it. Spraying it from the outside doesn't always get into the mechanism.
  2. Another suggestion would be to check your belts, as well as any area where the drive is supposed to physically move for signs of damage. It also doesn't hurt to move these components around a little manually to make sure they're moving the way they're supposed to. You said the drive worked when disassembled, so it's possible that the case is physically obstructing motion in the drive in some fashion. If that happens, the timing might be thrown off, the disk might not spin, or the read head might get stuck, in any of these cases the drive won't read. The smoke could be coming from friction
  3. I'd take it apart and check for a bad capacitor or exploded component. While I've never had the need to take my 5.25 in Uni apart, I have successfully repaired several Disk II drives over the past few months. If Gorgonops is correct, then there should be two boards in the drive, the first is the analog on top and a smaller one mounted to the back of the drive (given where you said the smoke was coming from, that latter would be my first guess). If something did blow, then it should be pretty obvious when you look at the boards. For a Disk II drive all the components are affordable, generic
  4. After reading your post again, I would suggest connecting the drive to your //c. Try booting from a DOS Master and cataloging a disk in the external drive to see if it reads. If not then try cleaning the drive head, and see if that makes a difference. The other thing I'll ask is, are your drives UniDisk or regular 5.25/3.5? The internals of these respective drives are the same, but the analog/controller cards are very different. My 5.25 is a UniDisk, but the 3.5 I use on my IIgs is just an 800k, and as I said I've had no problems reversing the order. This was done not just out
  5. Just looked it up, and you're right. Kinda weird, since I've been reversing it on my IIgs for years without a problem. Then again, I don't have that many 3.5 in disks and even fewer that are IIgs specific, so maybe that's why I haven't run into a problem yet.
  6. I think the daisy chain on the IIgs requires the 5.25 to be connected first, then the 3.5 after that.
  7. Try swapping the analog cards to see if you can recreate the malfunctions on the opposite drive. If so, then the problem is likely one or more of the ICs on the card, if the malfunctions persist regardless of the card, then it's a mechanical issue with the drive. Also, if you can reproduce the issues with this method, and you have another working drive, try the same procedure with it, and also try swapping the ICs on the card to isolate the defective component.
  8. Your errors might be coming from your laptop. If the system makes any noise, that can interfere with casette line. Computers can be chatty little things, system alerts, emails, messaging and chat alerts should all be silenced when connected to your //e. Another thing to do is adjust the volume. If it's too loud, the //e might ignore it as interference, too quiet, and the //e won't "hear" it at all. This might be why your phone didn't work. Generally, on portable devices, when you plug something into the headphone jack, it turns the volume down to prevent hurting your ears. You need to m
  9. Try writing the disc from the Apple Disc Server: http://asciiexpress.net/diskserver/ They should have most of those. It workes over the cassette ports. You'll need an aux cable plugged into the port closest to the joystick port and to the headphone jack on whatever you're connected to the site on. From there, the site has most of the instructions. Just be sure that your floppy controller card is in Slot 6 on your //e, it won't work on any other.
  10. "Error # 8" is actually related to processor compatibility. This usually means that the "Hello" or boot program was written for a 6502, and thus isn't compatible with the 65C02 processor in most later Apple 2s (including enhanced //e's). The IIgs can sometimes boot these discs (as they have limited 6502 compatibility), but I've found that the programs tend to glitch, or otherwise run with minor errors. Most of the time you can get around this by booting from a DOS System Master, and then loading from the program disc (this will work on both the //e and IIgs, it also works for my //c as well
  11. OMG, your right! I was looking in the same corner of the board as my //e, but there it is J21 in the middle! I've had this thing for years, and I never noticed. So I everything works on a IIgs, can't wait to try it out!
  12. To answer some of the questions I'm seeing here: First, the IIgs is compatible with nearly every Apple or Macintosh floppy drives. The only exceptions are for PowerBooks or USB. Personally, I rotate (since I have more computers than I have working drives) a 5.25 in, and a 3.5 in Unidisk, as well as an "800k drive" with a 1.44 MB drive (extracted from my LC), installed into the case. I even rigged up a 1.44 MB from a Quadra once, and it worked fine (although I never got it to fit into an external case). My IIgs is an unmodified, bare-bones ROM 01 (256k, no extras), and so far it formats and
  13. Do you have a list of the capacitors I'll need to replace?
  14. So I was recently given a Macintosh Classic (not a Classic II), and as one might expect, it will only give a checkerboard screen when powered. All and all, it's a pretty common issue. However, what's strange, is that the image isn't stable. Upon powering, the screen flickers, and the checkerboard is contracted horizontally with a thin squiggle that runs al the way down the screen. The image does eventually stabilize but remains contracted, also there is a strange pulsing that bulges the checker-pattern out at the sides, and slowly runs down the screen. If the checkerboard was stable, I'd
  15. I'm having an issue with my Mac SE where the video goes to a single vertical line (1 pixel thick) after about 20 minutes of use. If I turn it off, and wait about 5 seconds, it comes back, but I really don't like switching it off like that (as it's really not good for the power supply). The analog board looks good, but I don't have the proper equipment to check the capacitors. Does anyone know what's going on? Is it the capacitors? And if so, does anyone have a list of the replacements I'm going to need?
  16. I had a similar problem with my Macintosh SE, and I have to say, I felt really stupid when I realized that a gentle push was all I needed to fix it.
  17. I think it's a driver issue, or maybe a RAM cap within the ROM. Like you, I have a Mac SE with an accelerator (Radius 16 Mhz, with external display support), and like you I have an additional 4MB installed that my SE can't see. However, on my card there are two "jumper" spots on one side (similar to the "master/slave" jumpers on a hard drive), and when I move the jumper, my mac will see the chips on the accelerator, but not on the mother board. I know this because removed the RAM from my motherboard, and not only did it boot, but it showed the full 4MB in the accelerator when I clicked Abou
  18. I am trying to fix the motherboard to my grandfather's old //e, and have run into a bit of a problem. The board had been behaving rather strangely (not running internal diagnostics when the keyboard was detached, and giving errors for the RAM, and MMU). I've tested the chips on another board to see if I could replicated the error, but they all tested "System OK" on the new board. The most consistent error I was getting was in RAM socket #7, so I tried spraying it with some contact cleaner. At first it didn't seem to do any good, but then the board started giving me a new problem (as seen in th
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