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  1. Well I'm probably gonna give up on this repair until i can either find a replacement board, or the tools necessary to actually find the problem. Probably some complex memory problem
  2. Even with the ATX upgrade, i get -10.99 volts on the -12v line going to the motherboard, is this within tolerances? Seems a bit too high to me.
  3. Should I wash it off with vinegar or ethanol? It could be soapy residue from previous attempts to clean it off. I do know soap can be conductive.
  4. So I removed the RAM upgrades installed and ran it on just the 4 sticks, i powered it on, and instead of the simasimac pattern, the screen had that normal screen background as expected, but the floppy disk icon didn't appear, so i figured "oh maybe it needs the floppy drive" so i plugged the FDD back in since the HDD doesn't work and i turned the machine back on again, but now the simasimac pattern was back, so I turned it back off, unplugged the floppy, turned it back on, and now the simasimac pattern was still there, restarted yet again, and it still had the simasmiac pattern. This computer
  5. Hello, finally got around to doing the modification, great news, i have startup sound, bad news, it's the death chime. And there are still horizontal bars on the screen. Any ideas of what is next to do?
  6. So there's this brown stuff around a lot of the solder joints on the PSU board https://imgur.com/a/2peDcek I think it's best i replace the PSU entirely like this http://bylenga.ddns.net/index2.php?page=SE_ATX.php
  7. Cant really spot any bulging or leaking capacitors, anyone have any suggestions? https://imgur.com/a/63OqN3r
  8. Well then, I don't think I can get just the supply without buying a whole functioning SE or SE/30 where I live, so i'm probably better off inspecting the analog board on the SE/30 tomorrow and look for any bulged or leaking capacitors, might as well take out the CRT and retrobright the thing, it's a bit yellowed. Yes I will discharge the CRT and handle the analog board like it's a bomb
  9. would it be safe to throw the SE/30 board over into my Classic II? I think the power connectors are the same, but I just want to be sure so i dont mess things up even worse
  10. Yo, I just went to double check the voltages, the +12 volt going to the motherboard was 9.20-ish volts, could this be the cause? -12v is around where it should be though
  11. How much would such a fix cost, including shipping? @Bolle
  12. Drying it in front of a space heater for a few hours (very effective, heats the entire board up, so there was no water at all left), tried it again, no dice. Seems this board is just no good. Poo, guess i can sell for spare parts since i wont be able to afford anything to test the damn thing with in many months.
  13. After washing the board, and rinsing it again, after it had dried for a while, weird white spots had appearad around some of the caps, now all of the caps i installed were brand new, installed with the right polarity, and the water i used was just warm, but not hot tap water and dish washing soap, it seemed to center around capacitors, could this have been old electrolyte that i missed getting off the first time, or is it from my fresh installed caps? I rubbed some off with a finger and it didn't smell fishy. Anyway it came off easily with a Q-tip and denaturated ethanol. Could be flux from my
  14. Sorry, my multimeter is complete crap, it doesn't even do capacitance test, it only does voltage and resistance test, and it updates at a rather low frequency,so i dont think it's going to be useful. I'll just wash the board again and hope in the slim chance i missed some electrolyte that's been causing shorts
  15. Sadly, I do not have an oscilloscope, or the money to buy an oscilloscope, so I cannot test for that. but I'll see if i can find any shorts between traces.
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