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  1. I tried that by attaching a patch wire between Pin 24 and the ground pin, and the CRTL was stuck on while the wire was on. Desoldered it from ground, and the CRTL key wasn't stuck anymore... only for it to go back a few seconds later. It seems like it's totally random if it works for a moment or not.
  2. Well, I tried to use it again today and it's holding the CRTL key again, but this time it's weirder. After about 5 seconds of it being plugged in, the key will start to jitter on and off and eventually settle on being on. Now, if you ground Pin 24 (P23, I/O Port 2) the problem will be fixed for an indeterminate amount of time, but it eventually comes back. I'm starting to think the microcontroller is really the culprit here, but I don't have any easy way of replacing it. I think for now I'm just gonna shelve the keyboard until I can buy a replacement chip from Toshiba.
  3. I took kind of a weird approach and decided to use a USB SD card reader with my Power Macintosh G3 tower. With that, I could take my SD card out of my LC II's SCSI2SD, plug it into the SD card reader, and transfer files from there. I like MrGasS27's idea of using MacDrive though, never heard of that program until now but it seems handy.
  4. I thought that maybe something was wrong with the microcontroller, so I started poking around it with my multimeter to see if the pin out for its NEC 80C49 (AEK1 controller) and the Toshiba 80C49 (AEK2 controller) were the same so I could do a replacement, and... the problem went away. I think I checked Pin 20 and 40 (Ground and 5V respectively), and then pin 27, and the problem just disappeared. I tried pressing every key and none of them stuck anymore, although I think left control might be dead. I rarely use that key on Macs however, and even if I built a Teensy ADB > USB adapter so I co
  5. I'd go with what Rickrob said - $10 for a full set of capacitors is a good price. I didn't know about that when recapping my LC II though, so what I did was I went on Mouser and bought high quality low ESR caps from Nichicon that matched the exact values of the original caps. That's worked well for me, but the shipping costs for tiny orders like mine do really suck and don't make a lot of sense.
  6. I hadn't really put much thought into the corrosion because I didn't see any obvious corroded or damaged traces, just damage to the very outside of the board. If I need to repair traces, what would you say is the best way to go about that? It's a bit out of my area of expertise since I've never had to do that before.
  7. Got the G3. Very cool machine, but unfortunately I've figured out that the AEK is at fault. When I initially plugged the keyboard into my G3 though it didn't instantly turn the Control keys on, it only happened after pressing Scroll Lock. I'm going to see if I can figure out what conditions the Control key turns on under.
  8. I couldn't figure out how to take the switches out after desoldering, but I did get both of them desoldered and I took them completely apart and prevented them from making any contact with the logic board. After unplugging and plugging the keyboard back in a few times, the Control key eventually released, but upon pressing a totally different key (shift in my case) they went back to being enabled. I'm really starting to wonder where the issue could possibly lie with this thing. I just sent the guy with the PowerMac G3 an e-mail; hopefully I can pick that up and use it to test my AE
  9. Yeah, my AEK uses ALPS Orange. Very very nice to type on. I'll try what you suggest later today and see what happens - the good news is that if it is the key switch, it's only $5 on eBay for a replacement switch.
  10. I just poked around again and I can't find anything that could be wrong. Just for curiosities sake, I tried booting the LC II with only the mouse connected and going into KeyCaps, and neither Control key showed up as activated. As soon as I put the AEK in though, they showed up as being pressed down. Also, I should mention, I don't know if both keys are being pressed down or just one of them. Pressing just one of the modifier keys (Crtl, Command, and Option) makes both of them show up as activated in KeyCaps. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble trying to diagnose something
  11. I couldn't find anything on it myself. I took a photo of it, can't seem to get one that's super clean, but maybe you'll see something that I don't? https://imgur.com/pvGASyf
  12. Just took apart the other Control key cap, no luck with that either. I don't know what part on the keyboard is causing an issue, if it even a part on the keyboard. I might pick up a PowerMac G3 Biege soon that comes with an AppleDesign Keyboard, so if I get that then I'll try it with my LC II too see if it's a problem with the PC or the keyboard, but I'm really at a loss here.
  13. I've never had it enabled, but I checked just in case something happened. Nope, not enabled.
  14. Welp, I messed with it again and managed to fix the issue for a split second, but upon pressing CRTL again it reappeared. I have no idea why it could be activating, I even have the switch completely taken apart. I'll poke around more tomorrow.
  15. I just took a look at KeyCaps and you're right, it looks like both of the control keys are being held down. Hm... EDIT: I just tried to reflow the solder on the control keys. No dice.
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