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  1. I am restoring an original Mac II (M5000). I have a period correct High-res RGB display (M0401Z) for it. The problem is I don't have a cable. I hacked together a straight cable using DA-15 connectors but it doesn't work. The mac was booting into desktop, there was an image, but the colour was out of sync with blue part missing completely. Tried disconnect sense pins and now it won't show anything. So something must be wrong. The Mac II had "Toby" card with all VRAM sockets filled in if that matter. Do you know what is the connection scheme of the original
  2. I think this is what you get if there is no SIMM ROM and perhaps even no motherboard connected to the analogue board at all.
  3. You can instal stunnel on any modern Mac, just like most opensource software via Macbrew - https://brew.sh As for how it works. stunnel is a daemon that can be configured to operate in client mode where it listens on a port. Any incoming connection to the port is then proxied to the remote SSL host. The stunnel will sort out SSL handshaking and relays any data to/from the exposed unencrypted port. The vintage email client on your SE/30 will be configured to talk by plaintext POP3/IMAP to a machine running stunnel (a local Mac Mini) which will talk to the rem
  4. You can install stunnel on your Mac Mini. That would do the SSL handshake to your email server and expose clear IMAP/SMTP ports to your vintage client.
  5. The system should boot fine but there will be only 8 MB of RAM reported.
  6. Please forgive me for asking this basic question. How do I write 400k disc images to use them on my Macintosh 512k? I am using Macintosh SE/30 with System 7.5 w/internal SuperDrive and external 800k drive (M0131). I managed to copy .img/.dsk files downloaded from the internet to my Macintosh SE/30 through standard 1.4M floppies. Now I need to write them to a DD disc somehow. I have following programs installed: DiskDup+ 2.9.2 ShrinkWrap 2.1 Disk Copy 3.5 but none of them is able to load .img or .dsk images from t
  7. Replaced C33/C36 and the board seems to be fine now. Thanks! These were relatively easy to replace. I even didn't have to take the board out. I am happy I didn't have to replace the bigger caps... Originals don't look too good:
  8. Is it necessary to configure bus termination in any way when adding more than one internal device?
  9. Thanks. C33 and C36. Is that on the original board? The only scheme I found is for the 120V board where this part is actually slightly different. Anyway, I guess these are two small line filter caps (4700 pico farad, Y class) just next to the power inlet. I will try to replace them.
  10. I recently acquired a Macintosh Plus (version with the international 220V analog board - as I am in UK). It seems to be working fine. However, there is a strange issue with it. When switched off and connected to a wall socket (the switch on the back is off) it always after a couple of minutes keeps tripping RCD fuse in my house. So it looks like it is leaking current to ground somewhere. It is not the power cable. I tried to visually inspect the analog board, measure input voltage and ground using a multimeter and did not find anything suspicious or obviousl
  11. I replaced the fan with Noctua NF-A6x25 as suggested above. Slightly more silent, but still quite audible. Do you guys recommend to use any ultra or low-noise adaptor (13.38 CFM) or would you run it at full speed (17.2 CFM)? I am using sd2scsi so no internal hard drive inside my SE/30 if that makes any difference. I can't find the datasheet of the old PanaFlo fan, but in an old Macworld magazine, they reported SE/30's fan to have 10 CFM. So the Noctua should be comfortably above that even with the slowing resistor in place if I can trust these numbers.
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