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About Skate323k137

  • Birthday January 21

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  1. No problem... Good luck! Having done a fair amount of arcade repair I normally start with a recap, let the tube run for a couple hours, then adjust the flyback and focus etc. There is a sub contrast on the neck board as well as gains and cutoffs for the colors. Full cap kits and schematics are available if you search for them.
  2. Crank the brightness and contrast and let it warm up for a while. See if you have a picture then. If so it's probably an old tube. I had one in that situatuon (thought no picture but it was just really weak). I recapped and it only helped marginally. Likely mine is just a high hour tube.
  3. I use my ReactiveMicro with floppy games in a couple ways. One is to have an extra partition or 2 of 800k each and image the disk(s) to those. This works sometimes but not every title falls for it. Failing that I image the floppy to the iigs own Ram Disk. That works for some protected games. Failing all that I run from a floppy or floppyemu and deal with the slowness.
  4. So I have to eat my words, I could not find the right schematic for you The other older compact macs like SE have easy to find ones in books and pdfs, I thought the Classic was among them.
  5. Fun with MIDI today... After testing input (playing synthlab instruments via midi keyboard) I figured I would make the IIgs play a duet with my Yamaha keyboard. Channel 1 is the piano, which I mute on the IIgs to make the keyboard receive/play it over midi channel 1. The end result is the iigs speaker playing the accompaniments and my keyboards speakers playing the main piano.
  6. The schematics for these older machines should be in the old apple repair manuals. You could start there, or alternately just follow traces near the scsi connector.
  7. I was curious what a trinitron would look like with the desktop pattern. This is the nicest tube I own, PVM 20M4U, which lives in my 2-slot MVS cabinet. It's cool how on the previous page with the pictures of the original monitor you can see how red and blue especially appear to have different thickness of black border around them, where the PVM is quite consistent thanks to aperture grille.
  8. I haven't tried using the v6 as an external, as the V5 has worked fine for me and I don't care too much about the speed, given the slow external bus speed of my 7500s. For external use I'd probably stay with a v5 unless a little extra speed really matters. I've moved many files between my SE and 7500 with an external v5. The v6 can run into power issues on termination power alone, or so I'm told.
  9. For 68k era macs v5 should be fine but v6 is definitely an improvement in powermacs. I put up a thread with benchmarks in my 7500.
  10. 12 inch Mitsubishi tube if I'm not mistaken.
  11. Yeah, I know. I elaborated on that a little bit. I set it to do it's best when it's warm, but I know the tube is old. Always a risk you take I suppose Perhaps some day I'll find one with a broken chassis, and steal the tube for this guy.
  12. If you want to see it, I can hook the iigs up to my 800 TVL sony PVM 20M4U, and see what the desktop really looks like on an aperture grille.
  13. If it has to do with analog /digital / old RGB video I don't mind The bigger monitor I use the IIGS with has both analog/digital RGB inputs on the back. NEC CM-27 is the model if I remember right, but I've only ever seen the 2 I salvaged, and I sold one of them.
  14. THIS. Even on a CRT honestly it was like the test pattern from hell. One issue you run into focusing these things with shitty dot pitch (and also not being aperture grille) is your thickest scanline might not be your best picture. You touched on that with "It was actually in their interest to have a display that wasn't the sharpest tack in the box." I could basically over-focus it to a point where you could seriously see the grille and each R G and B dot. You almost have to "loosen" the focus from that exact point to get good whites and colors. Definitely not a trinitron, but no
  15. Thanks man! I did a full cap kit from console5.com, as well as the resistor they recommended. Definitely an improvement, the monitor was unusably dim previously. I'm not huge into Amiga stuff (some day maybe) but tons of arcade boards run on 15khz rgb. I can always use a 15k display for something. I have.... The only vents at all are the top and it's at 90 degree angles to presumably keep dust out. If I make any holes on the case it will be to be able to reach screen/focus with the case on. Other than that I would hope I can squeeze a fan in somehow. Anything at all should do th
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