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Everything posted by mjhagen

  1. I have nothing to add, just... wow! Amazing work!
  2. Hi bibilit, yeah, I've recapped the logic board (and all the other boards) as well.
  3. After recapping the screen (which didn’t show an image before) I see it flash the diagonal lines screen and sometimes even a gray-with-cursor screen. After that it just shows a black screen with the backlight on. On pressing the reset button it goes straight to the black screen, only when I remove the power and reapply it (from a bench power supply) it flashes the diagonal lines/gray screen. Does anyone have an idea where I should look next to try and fix this?
  4. Hi all, I was recapping an SE's Rev A analog board and found a diode soldered between CR4 and a resistor I can't see the designation of, and a capacitor between that diode and R26. Is that a modification to basically mod it into a Rev B? Can anyone shed some light on to what this does exactly? Thanks, Mingo.
  5. haha, no I know just got me on the right track.
  6. @techknight, you are my hero. After desoldering the three caps below J12 (just so I could have a better look at the traces that run underneath them I spotted 1 going between C8 and J12 that had the protective layer removed and that had probably shorted C8. cleaned everything up again, put a piece of kapton tape over the trace and resoldered the caps and now it boots again!
  7. oh wait, that's not the SWIM, that's GLUE. The trace runs between the right channel sony chip and the GLUE chip. SWIM is UJ11 of course. Still, I'll check the area around C9-10.
  8. @MikeatOSX I scrolled (ha) through the Dead Mac Scrolls but couldn't find this particular issue. @techknight I'm pretty positive, according to schematics I could find it is called BRST and I'm guessing that means something-reset? Thanks for pointing me to the SWIM (UI8, so it could still be my patch that screwed something up), I'll focus my next bit of debugging on that area.
  9. I did some more research into the issue (good chime, gray pattern, no pointer), but so far haven't found that particular combination. The ones I did find are: [no chime, gray patter, no pointer] -> RP2 filter [good chime, gray pattern, pointer] -> RP10 filter Both measure (using resistance) the same as my known-good board, so I think the filters are good. Sources for above symptoms: https://web.archive.org/web/20160306072255/http://www.biwa.ne.jp:80/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Repair_books_files/Mac Classic %26
  10. Hi all, I have three SE/30s, one works flawlessly (Mac A), one boots into the OS but has sound has issues (Mac B, I have another topic about this one), but my issue is with the latest one (Mac C): When I got it, I did a superficial check and turned it on and it booted (without chime) into the screen. It looked pretty corroded (and no sound) so I decided on a cleaning and recap. After the recap was done, I got a nice clean chime, but now it no longer booted to the screen (see video.) During the recap I noticed the corrosion had eaten away the trace next to th
  11. I have a few compact Macs that are missing various screws and I'd like to make them complete again. Does anyone have details on size, thread count, etc on the types of mounting screws used in (at least) the SE, SE/30 and Classic? So, these are the two different ones outside (silver and black torx) and I think 2, or 3 different Phillips-head screws inside mounting the A/B to the chassis, mounting the expansion bracket to the main chassis and the ones mounting the PSU (on the SEs) and I'm not sure, but I think the ground wire has its own screw type. I've tried to find such info in different
  12. @Johnnya101, Yeah I thought the same! Thanks again, they fit extremely well!
  13. The spinning part can get pushed in and it then catches on the housing, you should be able to wiggle it free. I don’t remember if you need to disassemble most of it before you can reach that part, but I know I did. I used one of those iPhone repair kit plectrums to get between the housing and the spinner.
  14. The only obvious thing I see is the solder joints on J4 (?), they seem to be cracked. Have you read chapters 5 and 6 of Macintosh Repair & Upgrade Secrets? I think those might be helpful here. Looking at it some more, maybe a lot more solder joints could use a touch up, the flyback included.
  15. The yellow stuff is normal, are you referring to that?
  16. Ooh I like the black! I got an FDHD myself last week and it too had a Maxell battery, but thankfully it hadn't exploded!
  17. So, I replaced UA9 which now doesn't get hot anymore, but the video chips (the U*6 ones and especially UG7) do still get quite hot. I don't know how normal this is, but I don't think it is. Also I've still not been able to track down the static sound over the speaker problem. A clue to me that these seem to be related to each other is that the crackling/static noise increases with time. After being off for a while it starts with a nice clean chime and when the chips mentioned above start to heat up the crackling comes in until it's almost constant. Another thing, in the time betwee
  18. Thanks techknight, I’ll add it to my list! Straying even more off topic, do you (or anyone else here) happen to know the value of C62 on the back of the board, near the floppy connector? It broke off and shattered in a million pieces when I touched up the solder on it.
  19. Also, the sound issue went away after putting a thermal pad on UA9, but returned after I had it running with the case closed for a few minutes. I decided to test the thermal pad option because UA9 gets very hot, anyone know if that's normal?
  20. Took off UE8, cleaned everything around there and re-soldered it and that seems to have solved this issue.
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