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  1. According to the datasheet the input voltage should be between 7 to 25 volt. 16v seems plausible. However, choosing a capacitor with a lower ripple rating than the original can cause stress in the capacitor and make it fail again. So sometimes choosing the cheapest capacitor can break things. Also, choosing a capacitor with a higher max temperature and rated longer life will usually help. This video explains a lot of the capacitor differences and why it matters to choose the correct one (and why some blows ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAbOHFYRFGg Really interesting
  2. If it's still there after recapping, try to do a RAM check/diagnosis. And check with another/fewer ram attached.
  3. If you install netatalk2 on a linux server, then you can set up a Appleshare pointing to that directory and connect to it in Chooser. After you save the project on the macintosh you can use git locally on the linux server to commit/push. You can even login to the linux server with the macintosh you are working on to use git on that shared Appleshare folder you are working in. If you don't have a linux server you can install one in a VirtualBox VM or a Raspberry PI. ..or maybe you can port git to System 7? that would be cool
  4. I've looked for the P34 number on other places before, because the P34 sticker is a bit faded (3 almost looks like 8, but I'm sure it says 34. Everything else matches) so I wanted to be sure - but the P34 is nowhere to be found on the silkscreen. I know the normal PowerCache cannot be used, but I've researched this before and found a manual stating that the Universal version can be used with the Maccon3 IIsi card.
  5. If it helps; I have exactly the same card as ktkm, the sticker in the lower left corner (front) says P34. ©1992 and the same card as in figure 22 in the manual, page 53. I've tried to use it in my Asante MacCon3 IIsi. According to the manual it should work, but the IIsi shut itself off at the second I turn it on so I'm not sure what's up with that.
  6. I'm no expert in this so I've waited for other to reply you, but here is my understanding of this: They can work, but if the capacitor have a lot higher voltage rating than the original part then they can have trouble forming. Lower voltage caps also have lower ESR, important in switching power supplies. Cheap general purpose capacitors usually have higher ESR and shorter (shelf) life (in hours) than the more expensive ones, so I always try to buy the one that lasts longer when I want to recap. I usually stick to KEMET, Nichicon or a brand type. Just an example, the KEMET ESY series
  7. The original cap you replaced have cracked the same way as mine had. I replaced them with a KEMET PME271Y Series, DigiKey part number 399-5411-ND. These look the same as the originals. I have a euro mac plus, so these are rated 250VAC.
  8. That reminds me of this thread: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/22511-mac-plus-tripping-home-electric-when-switched-on/ Recapping C33 and C36 fixed that issue for me (it tripped the fuse at home). When I opened it those two were cracked open. You probably want to order new ones, and order the correct capacitors with the original voltage for those you didn't have the correct value of at the same time
  9. In later, I think he mean the v6 board, because that another board design/code than the v4 board. http://www.codesrc.com/files/scsi2sd-v6/vs http://www.codesrc.com/files/scsi2sd/
  10. I didn't know about that trick. Good to know!
  11. Old drives are on the end of their lifetime for several reasons, and will die eventually. Sometimes the oil around the ball bearing dry out over time, makes it harder and harder for the disk/motor to spin it up (sometimes you can use a small trick to boot it a last time by warming (with a hair dryer) the spindle so the oil/bearings flow more easily, but it's on your own risk and the disk can be worse after this so use it as a last step just to get the data out). I even got a disk to spin up a last time just by tapping on it with my finger when it tried to "start", just so I could save the data
  12. Where do you find the exact part number of these items? It would be nice to know where to look when you want to replace or troubleshoot something
  13. Great project! I've been looking for a module like that myself just to bridge the vintage computers from their local switch to the wifi router. I'm currently using a raspberry pi with a wifi dongle, but it's a bit overkill and unreliable. Why? What happened? I'm still looking at his website from time to time to see if he have anything new 68k related in the works, but it seems pretty quiet these days
  14. Did you check that the pins between the MOSFET and the other components have a connection? Maybe it burned up traces further behind, so check the surrounding components.
  15. It's the Apple Universal Monitor Stand. Here's mine:
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