Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LaPorta

  1. Take all the screws out of the bottom and sides of the case as per the instructions (no need for illustration of that). Then, lift the top of the case up, and over the screw mount for the screen cable cover. Now, with the top case removed, leverage off the daughtercard. Also, remember to remove the PCMCIA card eject boards, a really tiny thijng (I don't have a photo, but the manual explains, and you just pull it up and out.). Then, pick up the side of the motherboard and lift it out of the bottom of the case.
  2. Another thing I didn't want to do is ruin the covers for the screws on the body. So, I used some really sharp xacto knives to lift ehm up, and work around them circumferrentially to come off. The biger worry was how to preserve the adhesive on the other side, and protect it from losing its stickiness. I had an idea: using one of those sheets that mounting tabs come on with a smooth, low-tack surface. It worked great!
  3. Now to disassembly of the main unit. Remove the speaker cable from the motherboard. Be careful, it is very small and do note how it runs. Removal of the trackpad cable is next. I recommend the use of the service manual procedure for this, it really was helpful in describing how to do this. First, you pull this ferrite ring up, and then sort of flip it up and out, which reveals the connector for the cable. You then pick up the ears of the connector on both sides and then release the cable (I couldn't get a good photo of that, so again, use the service manual). This is d
  4. Prepping to remove the screen takes removal of the side clutch covers, as well as the center cover. The clutch covers are self-explanatory: they just pry straight off. Don't try to bend them upwards or you risk snapping off little tabs on them. The center cover required prying up on either side. The manual states to use a screwdriver, but to save the plastics from marring, I used a plastic pry tool. Next, removal of the cover for the two display cables is fairly easy. First, lift out the small shield from the two tall heat sink standoffs. Then, take out the screw fro
  5. First step was to remove the speaker grill, keyboard, and heat sink from on top of the processor. Next, unscrew the two HD screws and just lift the HD out from the inside tab, and flip it over the side of the machine. There is enough ribbon cable slack inside to do it, so don't be afraid you will rip the cable somehow.
  6. Seeing as there did not appear to be any guide to re-capping a PowerBook 1400, I decided to do it on the fly on my 1400, a 1400c/133 model. I used the Apple Service guide on how to disassemble it for the break down, and it was actually very helpful. I took many photos to document various steps, as well as what to expect inside. Not content to just re-cap, I also wanted a functioning PRAM battery and main battery as well. You will see that not all went 100% according to plan, but the machine is far better off than it was previously. Here are the issues that existed befor
  7. Did anyone ever find some sort of suitable way to loosen up the hinge clutches so that the screen backs don't crack over time? Mine are stiff and I am noticing a slight hairline crack near one of mine. I have read all over that regular opil will spoil them and leave no resistance to hold up the screen. Any chance that something like dry graphite would work? How would you even get it in there?
  8. Well, heck, after thinking I must have killed the thing...it works! I can't tell you the ordeal I went through to recap the screen. I will post the whole guide when I have time. Also, I have a pertinent question: the recap did not fix the issue I have with my contrast switch not working properly. Does anyone have an issue with the contrast control under System 8.1?
  9. Just cracked my pack. Thankfully, it looks like it just came from the factory, so the rebuild shouldn't be all that bad.
  10. By the way, does anyone have a charger/maintainer for the 1400 batteries they'd sell?
  11. I just sourced 8 4/3A batteries from a local store, and they are also going to tack-weld tabs on for me. We will see how this all plays out...
  12. Looks like they are two Panasonic VL2330 batteries with a 3V rating. It looks like they are in parallel, so 3V and the total capacity of 50mAh.
  13. By the way, does anyone know the rating of the backup battery? I want to get some equivalent or close for mine.
  14. Rick, I just stripped mine down to the bones. There are a bunch of caps hiding in the display panel which could cause these issues. My contrast rocker switch stopped working correctly, and I think this is my issue as welll. Once I have the whole thing done, I will be providing photos in a thread.
  15. So, I am in the process of making this guide myself. I have torn this thing down to almost the bare bolts, and have found all the electrolytics. Many are hiding in and behind the screen as well. I will list them once ordered.
  16. Thanks for the insights. So, I'll say: the problem is completely predictable and reproducable. Happens every time exactly the same. I tested yesterday, and it really is an instantaneous issue. +5 and +12v rails are 100% within spec until it shuts right off. Attempting to start again produces a click, and then nothing. The more you try in rapid succession, it will do nothing (no click even). Then, if you leave it alone and unplugged, try a few minutes later, it will start again. It seems like there is some built-up charge or something that causes it that has to dissipate over time.
  17. I’ve seen a few posts on that. I may have to try that sometime, but I do like to keep the machines as original as possible, if possible.
  18. The machine works perfectly except for the contrast rocker switch. Funny contrast levels of all kinds happen when you press it; I was assuming something circuit-related. I simply wanted to get all the electrolytics swapped out before they leak.
  19. No, I haven't undertaken any disassemble simply because, instructions nonwithstanding, it is easier for me to disassemble something this complex, change the caps, the put it back together...rather than have it sit there for a week plus waiting for the caps and then forget what I did, have my kids touch the screws, etc. I was just hoping someone had done it, but I can't even find information via Google.
  20. This is all way out of my league, but I certainly would be willing to purchase one or more to future-proof my Portable. From what you describe as the issue, I am now amazed and thankful mine survived, and I replaced the caps with polymer ones.
  21. That stinks, at least I have the boxes and won't be shipping them!
  22. Are G3 iMacs that fragile? Never shipped one, and mine are boxed originals.
  23. What I really need to start is a list of the capacitors...surely, someone has recorded it somewhere. Just so I can order parts before starting.
  24. I will make a brief summation, since I have a tendency to be verbose. Simply put: I re-capped a perviously working Astec power supply from my Power Mac 8100, and now it is not reliably functional. More in depth: all I set out to do was replace the big electrolytics on this thing. There are three boards on this beast, one being a relatively tiny one that has two caps on it, and two other main boards. The smaller board needed to be completely desoldered to replace the caps, as these things are stuffed in there at a 90 degree angle to the other components on the main board
  • Create New...