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Everything posted by LaPorta

  1. My understanding (through research) was that organic polymer electrolytics are a solid, not liquid, electrolyte. That is why I used them. I meant that I use the same voltage rating as what is there on the original part.
  2. I also use the polymer for stock appearance. I just simply use whatever voltage the original parts were. Someone can tell me if that is wrong...
  3. I’m assuming you set up the SCSI2SD with the utility over USB on a modern machine? You use that to set the readable partition size (the size of the drive that the SCSI2SD lets the host machine see). Instructions are here: http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php/SCSI2SD_UserManual The “Device Size” setting is what you are looking to change to 2 GB. You will have to format the drive again on the SE/30 afterwards.
  4. THe way to get around this is to program the SCSI2SD to have a partition no larger than 2 GB. That is the largest 7.1 can deal with. YOu are likely getting these errors because of this. If you set SCSI2SD to make a 2 GB or less disk, this should work fine. Then reformat and repartition under 7.1.
  5. I wish. I got it running on a Portable, but it was all distorted.
  6. I do hope all of this will be helpful to someone out there! Please let me know if you have any questions.
  7. Last but not least: the hinge clutches. My PB1400 JUST started to exhibit a small hairline crack in the area of the left hinge like most 1400s now. This comes from the hinge clutches using up all of their lubricant and/or the lube drying out. Some had warned online that grease would ruin them, and make them so slick that they would not hold up the weight of the screen without flopping over. Heeding this, I went in search of a replacement. I found this: 3 in 1 Dry Lock Lube This stuff is great: it is a liquid spray that then evaporates in seconds and leaves a
  8. After that, it was a simple matter of transplantation of the PC board, terminals, diode, and thermistor onto the new packs. What I did was remove the components together, and snip ends off of the tabs from the original batteries. Once I had everything roughly aligned, I then soldered the tabs together, and glued the cells together to form a pack. It all fit very well into the original case. I won't go into the specifics of the battery, because Dave's video is just so excellent. In the second photo you can see the nex pack prior to installation. One thing to note (also in Dave's video) - you ca
  9. Ok, so back at it now (definitely later than I had hoped). The battery rebuild, the part I had feared the most, was actually the easiest of all. I owe that completely to this video by Dave's Vintage Apple Tech. It made the rebuild extremely simple. The way I procured the cells (they are, by the way, called "4/3A" cells (4/3 the size of an A cell? Who knew?)), was to order eight of them from a local chain, Batteries+Bulbs. I was also fortunate that they provide a service, free of charge, to build packs and also tack weld on tabs to the end! So, I gave them my
  10. It very possibly may just be me!
  11. To my knowledge, you can run up to 7.5.5 as far back as a Plus.
  12. Correct, that is what I was afraid was happening. Give that a go and see if that will work for you.
  13. As cheesestraws said above. I also find there is a lot of "voodoo" with these things, I have had to fool around with the settings of every single one that I install in my old Macs, but I eventually get them to work. The other questions I would have is do you have other old Macs and/or old System floppies for the SE/30 or other machine? That would make this a lot easier. I'll admit I have never had the "start from scratch" issue, as I have had a pile of old Macs and software my whole life, so I simply copy from one to another. That is the easiest method, but I don't know if you have that capabi
  14. How did you get said images to your machine (what machine is it, by the way)? Floppy? AppleTalk? FTP? Something may have been corrupted/lost along the way is my guess.
  15. That's it for tonight! Tomorrow I will post how I rebuilt the main battery pack. I hope this is helpful for others.
  16. Reassembly was straightforward per the manual. Now onto something more fun: making a new PRAM battery! So, here is the old one. Basically, it is two Panasonic VL2330 Lithium rechargable coin cells tack welded together with some wires. They are available on Amazon for about $10 apiece. I ordered them with leads. You can see the original next to the two new cells here. It fits right into the original plastic housing, and works exactly as the original did, no issue! I had already bent over and soldered together the two new ones. I then ripped off and removed t
  17. So I got her marginally put together to test, and: Now, the IPA wicking caused an almost imperceptible issue: a "stain" you can see when you are at a very extreme angle. Might it go away with time? Maybe, who knows. But looking dead on, you can't see a thing.
  18. So in the process of removing them and doing it again, I made error #3 - I had so much IPA on my Q-tip when cleaning the pad closest to the screen, that some IPA wicked itself INTO THE SCREEN! I was mortified, and almost certain I somehow probably destroyed the thing...but I can tell you I did not. It caused something small, but I will wait for the end for that ;). I had to cover all the surrounding material to help prevent heat from roasting everything in sight, but I can tell you the new method now works! I rigged an extension still for the tantalum cap, and used the hot air to s
  19. For completeness sake, here are the capacitor specs: 1. - 47µf 6v - 5mm diameter, 5mm height. 2. - 33 µf 16v - 6mm diameter, 5mm height. Getting them out was a pain - you can see the caverns melted on either side. Next is what the first attempt looked like when I soldered them in. The tantalum cap I ordered for the 47µf was actually TOO LONG to fit the pads! So, I rigged up an extension to more it to the right, where there is no conductive area. In this I made two errors: 1. - The tantalum cap was mounted too far "north" - when I laid the board over it,
  20. Next, the most challenging part of the project, by far. I spent over 50% of my time on this one thing, and I had to re-do it (requiring disassembly of the machine a second time). This was the replacement of the screen capacitors. First, there is a board that needs to be removed to even get reasonable access to the capacitors. There are two flat coonnectors and three screws needed to remove the board. Don't be afraid to lift the connectors you can't see - they come off rather easily. Now, call me a moron or overly cautious, but I have zero experience with disassembly of
  21. Taking out the inverter board requires some prying and finagling. It is too complex to describe the whole thing, but there is a good description in the service guide. You need to unwrap the foil package, along with adhesive, to gain access to the two electrolytic capacitors inside. They were relatively simple to replace as well. The two capacitors are as follows: 1. 1 x 10µf 50v - C3 (6.25mm diameter, 5.5mm height). 2. 1 x 2.2µf 50v - C9 The 2.2 µf I could not find a polymer replacement for, so I opted for a tantalum one of the same spec. Regrettably, I
  22. Inside, removal of the display itself requires removing four screws, removing a protective shield, and lifting the screen out. The backlight is connected to the inverter board by a cable in the upper-right hand corner (the pink and white wires). That can be leveraged out with the pry tool. Also, make note of the cable routing in these photos. You need to put it all back correctly for everything to fit.
  23. The display was an entirely different story. Disassembly was fairly easy, just follow the guide and it comes very simply. I used the same technique of removal for the screw covers on the inside of the front bezel. Removal of the front from the real bezel requred use of the nylon pry tool. Don't be surprised if you have a few broken clips: the plastic is old, and the disassembly requires bending one half in and the other out. Otherwise, it comes apart quite easily.
  24. Now that we have the logic board out, let's see what electrolytic capacitors there are on the logic board: There are only two types: 1. 9 x 100µf 35v. The nine are labeled PC1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 77, 78, 76, and 79. 2. 1 x 33µf 25v. This is PC53. Some showed signs of leakage underneath them, but thankfully very early (there was some crud, but nothing had eaten anything away yet). Removal was extremely easy with the ample room on the side of all of them. Replacement was easy as well. In the prior post, you can see how large they are: the newer ones were quite a bit smaller
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