Jump to content

LaPorta

68030
  • Content Count

    3028
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LaPorta

  1. Hey everyone, So, I just finished an overhaul of my AudioVision 14", and then turned to my 6100 DOS to get it back in shape. Absolutely no issues prior to recap, just preventative. Caps removed easy: no lifted pads. Replaced them all with same spec 47 µf, 16V organic polymer surface mount caps. No issues so far. Now, when I use the machine, after a while (presumably when it heats up), I start getting all this crazy loud crackling through the internal speaker. I have the thing hooked to the AudioVision and it does the crazy dance through the cable converter via the PC Card cable, et
  2. It was not standard, it was an added option. My 2300c has a blanked modem port there behind that leg.
  3. Yes. You can barely budge the board unless the connector is out of the way.
  4. Re: disassembly - yes, indeed, the logic board to analog board connector can be fraught with danger due to the proximity to the CRT neck. In my opinion, you are actually safer taking the neck board off if unsure because 1. It makes the clearance greater, and 2. It takes away a source of a 90 degree sheer force on the back of the CRT. With time, you will develop your own technique to pull it without damage. As for the card, id remove the daughter board (with the monitor connector) and it’s ribbon or whatever connects it first. Then, you should be able to slide out the logic board and the accele
  5. What Matt said, but usually my MO is this: when I get a machine with a working HD, I connect it somehow via network or external SCSI to another drive. I then make a DiskCopy image of the entire HD. I then proceed to reformat the entire thing and install a fresh system on a blank HD. At my leasure, I can then peruse the old stuff and reintroduce things if I wish.
  6. These are some pretty awesome finds! I know the excitement, especially making sure they run and keeping them going.
  7. THe RTCs are gold - so many have been eaten or damaged over time.
  8. Sounds great! Thankfully, the negative terminal isn't bad usually: drill the hole open, get the battery holder terminal through, and just solder wire from it to where the trace goes.
  9. There are a few more things going on here that I can visually see. 1. Your second battery holder is completely gone. The machine won't start without it's two PRAM batteries. 2. There ARE two SMD electrolytic caps which also seems to be gone on yours. They are capacitors C9 and C24, which are located in the upper-right hand corner by the startup circuit, and to the right of the RAM slots above the axial electrolytic, respectively. Compare your board with the photos from mine which I resotred less than a year ago. By the way, are you
  10. Looks right. There has to be a 1-2 step of adapters youcould use. I've never done it, though. I also second the advice on the solid polymers. Look OEM, but won't ever "leak" all over your boards.
  11. As far as the realignment procedure for your Sony, just check out the Dead Mac Scrolls. Whole procedure is in there.
  12. Cinema display with what sort of connector? You mean the LED Cinema DIsplay with Mini Displayport? I still use my 2010 LED Cinema Display 27" with my new 2020 iMac. Just need a Mini DisplayPort to USB-C adapter. Can be found for relatively cheap on Amazon.
  13. Here is my guide: there are several good ones around.
  14. It sounds to me like the head of the 1400 drive is misaligned. This is the common symptom: floppies can’t be read on it unless formatted on it. Then those disks formatted on it can’t be read by other machines. If the head is misaligned, then the tracks will be laid down slightly off-kilter, so the other drives can’t read them. What I can’t tell you is how to fix it: I know how to do it with the Sony drives, but definitely not a tiny, expansion bay 1400 drive. I’m sure it’s the same procedure, but I don’t know how to open one of those. Someone here likely will.
  15. That is true. On some finicky ones, I’ve used an AirPort Express second gen and that works fine (if you are needing wireless). Works well with my MacCon SE.
  16. Ethernet, if the extensions are installed, just works. You need to open the TCP/IP control panel, and configure the TCP settings for your internet router.
  17. $40, thats crazy! It's only $12 for me listed there.
  18. First, what System version is this machine using? You need certain System files and revisions to even get on the internet. Some version of Open Transport is needed. After that, then, yes, finding a compatible web browser, probably from Macintosh Garden, would then be my choice for what to do and how to start.
  19. Just as an aside, every Mac from the Plus through the B&W G3 Towers (excluding iMacs only, to my knowledge), had the same serial ports and can network with AppleTalk with System 7 and greater with each other.
  20. Not sure if available in Canada, but this is what I purchased and still use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FED2M9K/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  21. Is assume inadequate voltage to run the clock, yes? There are replacements on Amazon that aren’t too expensive.
  22. Hey thanks, my friend! Now to get a hold of some of this.
  23. Is it the same type ram as the 6100 takes, too?
  24. Does anyone know offhand what RAM type the DOS card takes in it's slot, and what the max is it can be?
  25. My cable is probably 2-3 feet long and narrow gauge wire with no issues. Just for reference
×
×
  • Create New...