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PotatoFi

Awful Macintosh SE FDHD Revival

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This is giving me life today! Awesome work and reporting, and a testament to the SE's resilience. 

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What an amazing transformation!  This gives me hope for a couple of SEs that have been sitting around and I've yet to be brave enough to look inside.

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Wow, just wow. You sir definitely deserve that result after all that hard work. Kudos!

 

Funny when working methodically, there's always something really obvious and stupid that's amiss.

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11 hours ago, JustG said:

What an amazing transformation!  This gives me hope for a couple of SEs that have been sitting around and I've yet to be brave enough to look inside.

Get those batteries out! Noaw!

11 hours ago, joshc said:

Nice, nice, nice!

 

Did it chime too, is sound working?

No chime, because for my test, the speaker was not installed.

11 hours ago, tokyoracer said:

Wow, just wow. You sir definitely deserve that result after all that hard work. Kudos!

 

Funny when working methodically, there's always something really obvious and stupid that's amiss.

Thanks! Seeing it come to life was very rewarding.

11 hours ago, techknight said:

That is damn nice work. 

 

About the CRT, Yea, its weak. Need to keep an eye out for a replacement somewhere. 

Thanks techknight! This one just took a bunch of elbow grease, that's all.

 

As for the CRT, I don't think I'll bother. I am looking for a CRT for my Classic II, but for this machine, I won't worry about it.

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Classic II requires the later one 99% of the time, but I did once see a Classic II with the earlier connector. My guess is that it had been cobbled together out of an older analog board and CRT, probably from a donor Classic I.

 

Every SE uses the older style CRT, which are super common. They're also one of the most reliable parts in the whole machine unless the neck gets snapped while working on them.

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14 hours ago, LaPorta said:

Which CRT do you need for the Classic II? The later-style connector?

Oooh, let's chat about this. Maybe over in the Classic II restoration thread.

Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and hot, the perfect opportunity for some retrobrite! While I did scrub the case down earlier, I didn't really detail it. There are still some rust stains, black marks, and grimy corners to deal with. I discharged the CRT and disconnected the anode wire, and went to work with the impact driver. And speaking of the impact driver, I've been using it a LOT on this project. I think it will become a main part of how I work on these going forward. It makes teardowns super fast.

 

IMG_0402.thumb.jpg.d032d775fb126f8d217073044a5ea071.jpg

 

A couple of minutes later, it looked like this:

 

IMG_0406.thumb.jpg.837c2d7033fd4a37a019e51108b775c8.jpg

 

Before retrobrite in the sun, it's important to remove the Apple badge. If not, the heat and direct sun can bleach out the red and yellow colors. To remove it, carefully push something through the hole in the back. Be careful though, something sharp like this needle can poke through the paint in the badge. No trouble here, but just something to watch for. Normally I use a paperclip but the hole was too small.

 

IMG_0407.thumb.jpg.79c4549e6a7d48e54e1bbcf0358f9c82.jpg

 

Next, it was time to remove this stubborn "Property of the State of Idaho" sticker. 

 

IMG_0409.thumb.jpg.b130f3a2ad1ec697b34558cafd188ad2.jpg

 

I carefully got under it with a razor blade.

 

IMG_0410.thumb.jpg.d90a27aafeaee6035c6f67c4629ec113.jpg

 

Hrm, a couple of new scratches... but worth it, I think.

 

IMG_0411.thumb.jpg.d0c2f6a6da8af4e0d2930eb879e0244b.jpg

 

To finish removing the sticker, I attached the residue with some goo-gone. 

 

IMG_0412.thumb.jpg.2348dceb16a97433daa4386cfd4f2c23.jpg

 

With the sticker all taken care of, it was time to take the case outside for a final cleaning. I used my old standby: Dawn dishwasher detergent and a toothbrush, along with baking soda on a wet paper towel for the stubborn marks, like these. No surface on the Mac was without blemishes like this!

 

IMG_0414.thumb.jpg.abf9d324fc1265c26db6c6fad2138f93.jpg

 

IMG_0415.thumb.jpg.b7454a7194711b2ca05c988fb5ba8bd0.jpg

 

There were some REALLY stubborn parts, like the rust stains all around the bottom of the case. Like I mentioned before, scrubbing with a wet paper towel and baking soda does smooth out the texture a bit, since it's basically a mild abrasive, but it's pretty minimal and worth the tradeoff. Here's just before I took it inside:

 

IMG_0416.thumb.jpg.492971bfb07c4cd4b64071ffecdb6b0b.jpg

 

Here's how it turned out. The vents along the bottom had tons and tons and tons of rust stains.

 

IMG_0417.thumb.jpg.21667c1f0b198bd34c57429d4ab7fb97.jpg

 

They look pretty good now! Not quite perfect but good. You'll have to look close to find the rust in this photo.

 

IMG_0419.thumb.jpg.03a6256897ee849492912652bd9e17fe.jpg

 

I worked on the inside a bit too.

 

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Tomorrow: Retrobrite, maybe getting over to my brother's shop to use his sandblaster, paint, and maybe cleaning up a floppy drive? We'll see.

Edited by PotatoFi

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Doesnt matter what the yoke connector is and if its compatible

 

ALL The CRTs are interchangeable between ALL the B&W compact macs. Its just a matter of swapping the yoke between the tubes and retuning any geometry. 

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8 hours ago, techknight said:

Doesnt matter what the yoke connector is and if its compatible

 

ALL The CRTs are interchangeable between ALL the B&W compact macs. Its just a matter of swapping the yoke between the tubes and retuning any geometry. 

Yep, I saw your video on that. :) 

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Yea, most 9" CRTs are interchangeable with one another, even with other machines. 

 

As long as it has the correct beam deflection angle, and the yoke fits on the neck, it'll work. 

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Here's what the case looked like at the beginning of the day.

 

IMG_0423.thumb.jpg.b79f8b65a180358391d32e025d6af0dd.jpg

 

I left some water out in a bin overnight, and this morning at 9 or 10 AM it was about 75 degrees.

 

IMG_0424.thumb.jpg.779d34cef2fc88b577c7fe34db3ec567.jpg

 

I dumped in six bottles of 40 proof hydrogen peroxide. I noticed that all of the caps felt really loose on these, and the little sealing thing came off in the cap. It makes me wonder if these were really sealed up...

 

IMG_0425.thumb.jpg.846582e7ea4170498e51f630bb86be38.jpg

 

Sadly, it just didn't get very hot today. I never saw it clear 95°F. The fishtank heater brings it up to 90°F on it's own.

 

IMG_0426.thumb.jpg.2cec07b78a0002abbd8e450295b33dff.jpg

 

After about 4 hours, I swapped in the back.

 

IMG_0429.thumb.jpg.e93915b18deaaf5f6dec79ab10dc3edc.jpg

 

Towards the end of the day, I took the rusty chassis and logic board shield over to my brother's shop. He makes AR-15 lowers and accessories, and has a lot of great tools, such as a sandblasting cabinet. I've never used one of these, and found that it's pretty hard to see what you're doing in the cabinet.

 

IMG_0464.thumb.jpg.4f290f8bb612ec46ff7f0bc2b1c119b9.jpg

 

Here are the results. He instructed me to not touch the parts - just go home, hit them with compressed air, and apply primer.

 

IMG_0466.thumb.jpg.fc2b8aa273e20235a22c67bb30e2d63c.jpg

 

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Of course, I'm out of masking tape, so to mask off any metal parts that I wanted to keep exposed, I used black electrical tape. You can see a tiny square of it on the chassis. I tried to mask off any parts where I thought connecting grounds would be important.

 

IMG_0469.thumb.jpg.60f03968696bc0de296b64415d236c9c.jpg

 

My brother gave me a can of high-temperature primer. It's designed for headers and other parts for engines... because... you know. Macs get super hot.

 

But seriously, it's primer. That's all I wanted.

 

IMG_0471.thumb.jpg.764aa4c3aee15ff92a3c170d47b486a7.jpg

 

It does seem a bit "blue". I'm trying to decide whether to go buy a can of flat grey, or just put it back together as-is. Let me know what you think.

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Yes a blasting cabinet is great, but hard to see through after a couple of minutes, it's more a hit and miss game.

 

Yes again, touching the sandblasted metal with your fingers is not a good idea, the damp skin is to be avoided in bare metal.

 

I will go for a grey or metal finish, but just my point of view.

 

Concerning the Retrobrite, i have had better results boiling water first, and mixing it with Vanish on a second time (don't use peroxide anymore, Vanish is more easy to use and do more or less the same trick)

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On 5/25/2020 at 5:07 AM, bibilit said:

I bet this gonna work, SEs are bulletproof, never seen one bad.

I saw one with a bust in screen and pink paint over it in a recylce center before

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8 hours ago, Papichulo said:

I saw one with a bust in screen and pink paint over it in a recylce center before

I bet it would’ve worked fine with a new CRT. :) 

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8 hours ago, PB145B said:

I bet it would’ve worked fine with a new CRT. :) 

Probably true and this SE fdhd that he did looks great!

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22 hours ago, bibilit said:

Concerning the Retrobrite, i have had better results boiling water first, and mixing it with Vanish on a second time (don't use peroxide anymore, Vanish is more easy to use and do more or less the same trick)

Do you mean you just mix hot water and Vanish and nothing else? I have a tub of Vanish but found it hard to get peroxide cheap enough.

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